Does anyone have a used Dual-fuel setup for sale? It's basically a nitrous plate with a spray bar and regulator that can be mounted between a Flying Toilet and the manifold. Allows the car to be cranked on gasoline for faster warmup.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: RevRup,

My first one was a home built set up. Used nitrous plate and fuel solenoid, needle valve from grainger, and $30 pump from auto parts store. Worked great for many years, recently aquired the a Ron’s primer plus set up so I installed that and it works equally as well.

get what he said above and get a low pressure fuel regulator

we ran the rons primer plus setup in our car for years. we ran it with a toilet and ran it with a terminator.

A couple of suggestions here

1) they say you can run the car on 93 pump gas... do not do that, run it on VP or sunnoco blue race fuel to give your engine better protection

2) get your setup to work with a 1 gallon tank, the 1 quart tank that comes with it is not big enough

I always pushed the primer button a few times to spray the gas down in the intake and then started the car on alcohol and switched to gas, seemed to work better that way

the way we had our cars set up the car was often around 130 degrees after a pass and I would switch it back to gas and drive it back to the trailer to shut it off around 160 in order to keep heat in the motor between rounds

I would never run injection without this setup

hope this helps

quote:

Originally posted by racerdude2054:
we ran the rons primer plus setup in our car for years. we ran it with a toilet and ran it with a terminator.

A couple of suggestions here

1) they say you can run the car on 93 pump gas... do not do that, run it on VP or sunnoco blue race fuel to give your engine better protection

2) get your setup to work with a 1 gallon tank, the 1 quart tank that comes with it is not big enough

I always pushed the primer button a few times to spray the gas down in the intake and then started the car on alcohol and switched to gas, seemed to work better that way

the way we had our cars set up the car was often around 130 degrees after a pass and I would switch it back to gas and drive it back to the trailer to shut it off around 160 in order to keep heat in the motor between rounds

I would never run injection without this setup

hope this helps

I agree that one quart is not enough, I had a tank built that is approx 3/4 gallon. I start and run mine on gas and it doesn’t get switched over unless im using the transbrake to put a little heat in converter before first run (setting brake and bring engine up to 2500 or so for about 5-10 sec), or when i’m bout to roll into water box. Usually switch it back to gas somewhere between et shack and trailer. I also use 100 LL from local airport or race fuel but have run 93 in the past without issue. I switched mainly because 93 stinks if you get it on you and the exhaust stinks too. Also agree I wouldnt run injection without it!!

If you ask 10 different racers how they use their primer plus you’ll get 10 completely different answers. Here’s how I use mine with a toilet 13.5/1 sbc.

I have a 3 gallon tank at the back of the car with a holley blue pump, dead head regulator and nitrous fuel solenoid. I run 93 octane and the only time my engine is running on alcohol is when it enters the burn out box and up to getting my run ticket at the ET shack. Then it’s back on 93 octane. I keep my engine in the 160 to 190* temp range when not on the racing surface.

When I leave the starting line at 160* my water temp will increase to 165* at the turn off after a 1/8 mile run. If I leave the engine run on alky it’ll drop into the 155* range after the et shack.

The first engine start of the day, I turn ON the fuel pump to the primer plus for 3 seconds, then crank for 2 seconds with pump ON, and then turn the Ignition Switch ON. This will immediately start the engine and run without backfiring.

If the temps are 35 to 50*, I’ll increase the crank time by 1-2 seconds to get more fuel in the engine to keep from backfiring. This works great for me. I cannot afford to have the engine backfire. I use a foam air filter and a backfire will melt the foam and suck it into the engine if this happens.

After the first engine start of the day, the PP fuel pump goes on with the ignition and cranking. If you ever flood the engine keep cranking with the fuel pump OFF and turn back ON when the engine fires.

I can go through as much as 5 gallons of 93 octane in a race day from initial heat soak at start to the same heat soak at end of the day shut down. I monitor the oil temp gauge and want to see it at minimum of 180* at both start and shutdown.