Not trying to fire up a big thread on "which oil is best" - We've seen plenty of those over the years.
Somewhere in the past year, I remember seeing, hearing, or reading of a motor oil that was either specifically made for alcohol fueled engines, or maybe it was just a racing oil that supposedly had enhanced properties that were more beneficial to an alky engine. If I remember right, it had an improved ability to deal with the moisture / water issues, but not positive.
Anyone see or know what oil I'm thinking of?
(Man, I hate getting old. But I guess it beats the alternative).

SCHAEFFER

besides schaffers and vr1.valvoline vv851 is formulated for alky and nitro

Brad Penn

I've had great luck with Penn Grade

Brad Penn/Penn grade here as well. Started running alcohol three years ago and all has been well. I think a big part of alcohol is putting it away hot and ventilated.

Brad Penn is the best I've found so far especially dealing with corrosion / moisture when the engine sits for a period and it seems to stay put.
Cheers

My suggestion is to run the oil that your engine likes and keep the alky out of the oil. Not being snarky about it either. No oil does well diluted. And who likes changing oil all the time? Get the engine warm for racing, get it hot before quitting, and run a vacuum pump. And forget that you are running alky.

Schaeffer is my vote. Just Ordered a case from Amazon with the cost per quart about $6.50.

Schaeffers Micron Moly is what a lot people use for alky fueled engines. I have used it for about 10 years and am very happy with results. Just got 15 cases delivered for myself and a few fellow racers. GOOD STUFF

Schaeffers Micron Moly here as well, we also run a vacuum pump and try to keep engine pretty warm

Different question about alky oil. Why do many use very high viscosity oil in an alky motor when they are not going to build much heat which is what high viscosity is for. Are they anticipating diluting the oil?

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Different question about alky oil. Why do many use very high viscosity oil in an alky motor when they are not going to build much heat which is what high viscosity is for. Are they anticipating diluting the oil?

I am guessing you are correct on anticipation part. I run heavier oil because I have fairly loose clearances. Then I change oil lot more often then some here do.IMO its a hgh dollar racing engine and I am just protecting my investment.

quote:

posted March 03, 2019 10:03 AM Hide Post
Different question about alky oil. Why do many use very high viscosity oil in an alky motor when they are not going to build much heat which is what high viscosity is for. Are they anticipating diluting the oil?

i run thin oil on my bracket motor.heavy oil on an engine thgat sees higher engine loads.both on alky

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Different question about alky oil. Why do many use very high viscosity oil in an alky motor when they are not going to build much heat which is what high viscosity is for. Are they anticipating diluting the oil?

Because that's how they've always done it. Large clearances because parts move too much and bad tune ups that dilute oil. Old school thoughts in a normal bracket motor. Parts are better and stronger, fuel systems are much better so you don't have to run nitro clearances anymore.

I can tell you an oil to avoid unless you put in extra work. Not because it's a bad oil but because of an issue I saw. I ran Driven XP3 10-30 last year. The issue I saw with it is that it runs off after sitting and will allow rusting on valve springs and such. That is also why it will make a bit more power because it doesn't cling as much.

Watch the Penn 10-30 it is a little lighter than most 30 weights and will change pressures. I don't care for their oils but many use it successful. I have used my engine as a test bed of sorts for years. Ran Amsoil, Synergen, Lucas synthetic, Champion synthetic, Penn grade, and this year trying Renegade synthetic blend. Oil is usually only a problem when you have a problem. Then the film strength and additive package is where the better oils will shine. What clearances you choose to run and your target pressure will determine your weight.

The two oils I did test film strength and additive package on was Amsoil and Penn. Early on when I was less skilled I hydraulicked a cylinder and bent a rod with Amsoil. Made 85 more passes after with the bent rod and no problems. I had an oil control problem running 1/4 and was losing pressure stopping with the Penn. Made 4 passes like that then started clicking it off at the stripe and wiped a bearing about half way. Can't blame the oil necessarily but it didn't give me a fuzzy feeling seeing the way it handled it.

Here is my stupidity on display. Amsoil saved me I believe. The bearing could still be used.





JMO on things.

Curtis

Rotella 10w30 for me

THIS^^^^ or DELO.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
My suggestion is to run the oil that your engine likes and keep the alky out of the oil. Not being snarky about it either. No oil does well diluted. And who likes changing oil all the time? Get the engine warm for racing, get it hot before quitting, and run a vacuum pump. And forget that you are running alky.

Yep. The funny part is gas actually mixes with oil and dilutes it. The reason oil with alky in it is milky is because it doesn't mix. Even with a good tune up you're going to get some alky (or gas) in your oil. Methanol boils at 148 degrees (F). Getting the oil temp above this temperature, as well as having the crankcase well vented (and a good tune up) will keep your oil clean. I used to race 12 months a year. During the winter if it was really cold I'd drain my oil and sit the drain pan under my shop heater. It would be milky when I drained it, but clean and clear when I poured it back in my engine for the next race. (the alky would evaporate out of it). Can't do that with gas.


There's no need, or reason to run diesel oil in a race car. Diesel oils used to have zinc in them, but the zinc was removed ~10 years ago when particulate filters were added to diesels.

Schaffer #110 Micron Moly when I ran injected alky N/A, held up to alcohol well and bearings always looked great, used straight 40wt. Now that I’m running the blower in alky I use either the 50wt if that oil or Lucas blue 50 wt.

I used to run Brad Penn myself and switched to Schaeffers because of the way penn looked with alky. The Schaeffers looks much better in my opinion, and like Curtis says it clings to parts as well. 50w for me