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Adjusting bolt together converter
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DRR Elite
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I have a PTC that was about perfect out of the box. So I have never had it apart. Well, we slowed down our program. And with the reduced power, the once perfect converter is way too tight. And recources or advice on what I can do myself with a bolt together? Any special tools needed? How much can a stall usually be changed?
I will call PTC also. Just getting my head around it.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6421 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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9.5th19-0bt1/4et


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6421 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR / Crew
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You can do all the work yourself, no problem. Just keep track of how things are spaced. There should be shims on both sides of the stator.

But this is basically for fine tune adjustments.

You will need to know the current stator in the converter. Talk to PTC and let them know where you're at and get stator and spacing info from them.

Don't be intimidated, it's not that tough, just take pics and keep notes.

SL...
 
Posts: 2109 | Location: Gallatin, TN - U.S.A. | Registered: October 12, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Yeah it can be intimidating the first time you take one apart. Mine was a Neil Chance, i changed the stator a couple times which will change everything about how it works. This is how it went. Drain the converter as best as you can before starting.

Start out on a table big enough that you can keep things clean and separated I'd say 4' long table at a minimum. Set converter on table with neck facing up. Remove all bolts, next use a small drift to drive the 2 roll pins roughly 180 degrees apart out of the pump into the back cover (part that bolts to the flex plate). My roll pins were slightly offset from 180 degrees, so that the pump and the drive cover went back in the exact same orientation. If there's not something like this built into the converter bolt flange, you'll need to match mark the pump half to the drive cover at the flange, so that they go back together in the same orientation.

Lift the pump side up (part with the neck welded to it), check to ensure that all the spacers and shims stayed on top of the stator, sometimes the spacers and or Torrington thrust bearing races will stick to the bottom side of the pump housing. Once you get the pump off, You'll be looking down at the stator sitting on top of the turbine. Set pump half aside. Take note of shim stack on top of the stator assembly. Its is important that they go back in the same location.

Remove stator assembly, be sure to note the shim/race/torrington washer stack on top and bottom of the stator assembly. Set the stator aside, make sure the shims didn't stick to the back of the stator assembly. Set stator aside.

Now you are looking down at the turbine and potentially shims on top of it (between the stator assembly and the turbine), remove shims if any on top of turbine. Dump all the fluid out of the back cover while holding the turbine in place. Lift turbine out, look for shims on backside of the turbine, count them and remember the order of them in reference to the torrington thrust washer on backside of turbine. Backside of the turbine has a nub on it that rotates in the back cover pilot (the part that goes into the backside of the crank). Make sure to keep track of your shim spacing and bearing orientation in reference to shims/races.

Then you'll likely take the stator apart and replace the stator, just make sure to put the stator back together the same way you take it apart.

Reverse the process above making sure that everything goes together exactly the same way it came apart. Check end play by using a set of snap ring pliers to grab the inside of the stator splines and lift up and down. If you are really good you do this with a dial indicator before and after you take it apart so you can verify it went together with the same clearances.

You can also move shims around between each part to change/fine tune the converter, but I have no idea how/what changes to make to get the desired result, that will be a question for your converter mfgr. I drew a picture documenting each shim and torrington thrust washer, race etc as i took it apart that way i knew exactly where each shim/race went back when i rebuilt it.
 
Posts: 395 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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When ordered my bolt together from Abruzzi Marco told me about 60% of all bolt togethers still come back to him for adjustment or bearing replacement because guys are intimidated and afraid to take it apart.
I had 2 stators for mine 4* apart, I would run 1 in good weather and when it got hot and weather got bad I would put the looser stator in to keep the car tune up consistent.
Once on the bench it would take 30 minutes to swap the stator. Pretty simple process, just make sure you have spare bearing and cover seals.
 
Posts: 2447 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I’ve had numerous bolt together converters over the past few years. Changing a stator is a very simple process.

My best recommendation is that once you remove the pump and lay it down beside the converter, take a couple cell phone pictures as you remove thrust bearings and any shims. Take several of each step so you can reference them upon reassembly.

A spragless makes the process even easier as you don’t have to worry about putting the spragless spline center in the wrong direction. With a diode or sprag you need to pay close attention to make sure it goes back in as it came out.

Again, not difficult, just need to pay close attention and take pics.
 
Posts: 277 | Location: USA | Registered: August 27, 2022Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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