Heat can be interesting with generators. I have a B&S 6500 inveterter portable that has been a trooper for going on 5 seasons now. A race we went to in MO was brutally hot. Really wasn't any fun due to the heat. That thing did it's thing even when the ac in the motorhome didn't keep up.
But we just missed filling it (which I don't like doing when it is running, but....), and I couldn't get it started. Brought it into the trailer out of the sun and removed the cover, and could see the fuel boiling in the clear tubing. 15 minutes out of the sun, and it started back up and didn't miss a lick for the rest of the weekend. Just had to keep the air moving through it.

Years past. I decided to pick a little extra work.
Taking calls at local RV parks dispatched from the major RV call centers. It got out of hand. Just too much. From Gears not retracting, slides being stuck.Regen issues. ETC. It was effecting my regular work with the contracted companies. Gave it up.

The days with taking the service truck to the track when i was trying to compete. Had to stop. Don't get me wrong, I'd help anybody to lessen the jam if i could. One of the biggest issues were on the Big toters and MH's were regen and derate issues. Oh the fun....

Tire work, we don't want to even go there.

I'm usually open to anyone with generator issues or questions at the track.
I have done repairs and just simple service work usually if pre-arranged

I put a water pump belt on an Onan 7.5 diesel last year in the cold rain. Generator was front mounted on a slide and I could crawl under there and do the belt. Really didn't need it but they are known to break.

Most fixed mount units there is NO way to change it without removing the generator....A huge PITA on any diesel pusher but once the belt frays and comes apart, your out of action...

The biger units also break belts, rubber couplers, squirrel cage fans.....Usually with considerable hours and time but I have seen premature belt failure on a few machines

The number one big complaint on Onan's is random intermittent shutdowns.......Control board !!!

SCDIV1...KNOWS!

I started putting a lighted switch on the dash of my motorhomes years ago. This switch powers the fuel pump separately from the control board and eliminates random shut offs on the 7.5, 10k, and 12k Onans. If the switch is on, the pump runs, even if the generator is shut off.

If you go that route, you must put in a diode so there is no feedback to the control board fuel pump circuit. Otherwise, you are sending power back to the circuit board if you leave it on after shutdown, and that will eventually damage the circuit board connector.

I shouldn't have to say this, but I will; make sure this wire is fused...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Don Higgins Crew Chief Pro Software,

If you power the fuel pump from a separate switch there is no need for a diode

Disconnect the brown B+ normal fuel pump power feed wire and add your switch fed power directly to the pump. The other wire (black) is ground and it can be grounded to the pump mounting screw.

There is NO connection that way back to the board and your pump power is isolated

The pump could run with the generator off and it doesn't hurt anything.....Fuel just returns via the normal return line....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
If you power the fuel pump from a separate switch there is no need for a diode

Disconnect the brown B+ normal fuel pump power feed wire and add your switch fed power directly to the pump. The other wire (black) is ground and it can be grounded to the pump mounting screw.

There is NO connection that way back to the board and your pump power is isolated

The pump could run with the generator off and it doesn't hurt anything.....Fuel just returns via the normal return line....

I was kinda wondering about the feedback comment.
What about running a gasoline powered run off a switch. Any big problem if the switch is left on?

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
If you power the fuel pump from a separate switch there is no need for a diode

Disconnect the brown B+ normal fuel pump power feed wire and add your switch fed power directly to the pump. The other wire (black) is ground and it can be grounded to the pump mounting screw.

There is NO connection that way back to the board and your pump power is isolated

The pump could run with the generator off and it doesn't hurt anything.....Fuel just returns via the normal return line....

The only reason I would run the diode is to make the pump work with the control board when I was doing maintenance on the generator. If I wanted to start it without going back into the motorhome first it still works from outside. It isn't a big deal, but is an option.

That makes perfect sense than Don, I didn't think of that scenario....

And NO you shouldn't run a gas units pump the same way because if you forget it and leave it running the odds are the carb might flood and fuel will leak out and be a fire hazard

I've had a number of Onan carbs that poured fuel out from the float going bad....heat killed them and you cannot buy carb parts separately.
You have to buy a complete carb and the cheap Chinese knockoffs are maybe a 50-50 chance of actually working and that's being optimistic....
Onan Carbs are $$$$ but they always work....

Rich, check your Pm’s. Thanks.

I sent you a response...