I need to replace the radiator in the RV Generator. I have a new radiator. Does anyone have a link to a service manual or know how to remove it?

Thanks

Scott, I had the same problem but it happened at a race.

They are not bad if the generator is out, but the side access panel is not wide enough to remove it out the side WHEN THE GENERATOR IS STILL IN THE MOTORHOME. We had to cut a few more inches out of the side since I could not remove the generator. If it is removed the access cover comes off and it can be removed easily.

I have a link on my website for this: http://www.crewchiefpro.com/onan_radiator.pdf

Cut an access panel in the side and slip it out.

I repair Onans everyday and theres no way I am hacking up something to do this repair...

The unit comes out and all panels removed....



Replace radiator and anything else necessary.

Belts break, hoses deteriorate, fan drive and fan need to be inspected....


Sure I know racers who did what you would call an emergency repair since they were at a race and it was blazing hot out.....


I just did a 10 or 12 KW for a Pro Nitrous racer before the Virginia PDRA event....

Pulled it out and replaced some parts...….


Yes it was a struggle.....and I put it back in while it was raining and outside....Toterhome….


Those radiators are very expensive from Cummins-Onan and 1 racer I sent some parts to had one made from aluminum for less $$ than the original.....


The hoses are special and he also used some metal tubing to get rid of some of the hose portions....


I service 2 medical buses with 12kw units regularly and one had the belt break 2 or 3 times with not a lot of hours on it.....


Isuzu engines.....the 10kw units are Kubotas….


Right now I am removing a 7KW gas Onan from the front of a Dutch Star Diesel pusher.....

It had an LP unit previously.....and its current gasoline unit is DOA...

I have a suitable freshly repaired much newer unit to replace it..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

Thanks for the replys.

I couldn't find a good used one anywhere but I was able to find a new one from BGR radiator that was $300 cheaper than a new one from Cummings. They make a replacement for 130−4722

http://bgrradiator.com/

I guess I will just take it out then, I have all winter not like I'm at the race track in a hurry. The RV is in a shed so I have cover also. I guess I could use the cherry picker to pick it up.

SCDIV1 - What all has to come loose to get the unit out?

Thanks

The biggest issue with 10's and 12"s usually is the AC output connection whip.

The terminal strip for that is at the left rear upper corner.

Like the last one I did.....its nearly impossible to get to the terminal strip to disconnect the wires. The machine does not come out far enough because usually from not enough slack in the output whip.

The last one I was able to get the cover off and cut the wires and wrestle them out of the machine.

For the re-install I made up new longer output wires and sealtite…...and attached it to the machine before installing.

Add a splice box behind the machine that I could easily get to.....


Other than that.....

4 bolts from below usually into a vibration mount style tray
2 battery cable connections
2 fuel line connections and be sure to mark them.....supply and return.....
Exhaust pipe

Usually there is just enough room to get them out and I use a forklift....Very tight fit on some.....

The original hose clamps are crimp type.....and one hose is may be a tee that goes to 3 connections.....


Check the water pump drive belt.....the squirrel cage fan if it has that type and I had one machine that the ring on the engines balancer-dampner was slipping.....Engine was over heating from belt not being driven properly.....


The belts go bad, the squirrel cage fan is aluminum and cracks....and on some machines the rubber coupler fails..


There are a number of different designs on 10's and 12's......They are not all the same so I describe some stuff you may not have....


At 5000hrs they may need brushes, I check them for wear. It can be done without removing them...


Fuel pumps go bad and changing it is easy when its apart.....they are cheap and there are aftermarket units easy to get...


Without a forklift it would be a real difficult job to pull one out......

I think I have a buddy with a forklift, also have access to a backhoe with forklift deal, I'll figure out a way.

Thanks for all the info and tips, greatly appreciated.

Rich is "THE MAN" when it comes to generators. Has definitely helped me out. Thanks for all you do for the racing community

........Howie

Thanks Howie. I rarely go to any race without looking at, working on or making plans to fix a machine at another time. Keeps me busy sometimes. Onans my middle name ! Lol Might as well be !