1320 advice is spot on for first set up. Then let the car tell you what it wants. The bars are just connecters and as said either shorten the right upper bar or lengthen the left upper bar for pre-load. As long as your pinion angle stays where you want it doesn't matter which side just remember right side short and left side long as to pre-load. Now body roll to an extent can be lessened with pre-load but with the power I think you may have you really need an anti roll bar. I have been building and setting up 4 link cars since 1985. Anti roll bar is the ticket when H/P go up. A splined 1"1/8 bar is way better than no bar at all. But in my opinion this is an area where bigger is better.

Shock settings will also affect what is happening as stiffer right rear shock compression and stiffer left shock extension will help at the hit and slow down the twist effect. The rear end wants to twist out of the car like a propeller to the left and the body-chassis wants to twist over to the right. Too much pre-load or too much shock difference will make the car leave to the left or right so be a little so pay attention after making changes.

quote:

Originally posted by DragRacerJosh:
So which rear tire do I want to add weight to in order to combat body roll?

You want around 50 lbs more on the right rear, with you sitting in the seat.

Shorten the top bar on the right side.

If you don't have scales, try 2 - 3 flats.

I'd put an ARB in it, Pre-load is a last resort because it has the rearend in a bind.

Staggering shock settings will steer a car right or left depending on clicker settings, with a car going straight inspite of body roll.

ARB is the proper/correct fix, run bars neutral.