quote:

Originally posted by Zooom:
Here's a technique that has worked for me for the last 20+ years with an injected alky combination:
Initial start up, let the car idle and lean out the fuel intake. The car will idle to ~2000 rpm. Turn the water pump on and let the car warm up to 200 degrees. While it's warming up, feel free to drive it around or place it on jack stands and let the tires spin. It usually takes about 7-10 minutes for this to reach 200 degrees, but the oil temp will also warm to 160 or higher. It also allows the trans fluid to warm up to that which it sees after a run. Every converter and fin angle is different, so the length of time for it to reach temperature will also vary. Once the water is at 200, I shut it down and wrap it (on cold days in the Northeast) or let it sit until they call for time runs.

At the end of the day: (this is the most important procedure we have found to keep the oil looking like oil
After you're finished (either lost that round or won the event), I lean it out on the return to the trailer. When I get back to the trailer, I either load it immediately (while still hot 200+) or I let it sit and winch or push it in the trailer. I will never let it cool and then restart it to drive in the trailer! Most importantly, when I shut it off, I open the butterfly wide open (I use a funnel or sharpie to wedge open the linkage) and let the moisture in the intake evaporate out through the top of the manifold. I also remove the breathers in the valve covers f you have some. I leave these venting for at least 30 minutes. A little extra bonus, if I roll the car out at home that night, I'll also remove the valve covers and let the engine vent.

People ask me all the time how often I change oil, and I laugh, as I only change it based on the number of heat cycles the engine endures, never because of contamination. This is just my $.02, I hope you can get some pointers or ideas that can benefit your program.