Callie’s magnum BB cranks have been over 2 grand for a while. I don’t know if they are induction hardened or some other process like nitriding. I think nitriding is more likely but I really don’t know the answer to that question

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
If I ran an import it would be a Molnar or a Pep.


[/QUOTE
Ummm, according to my research, those are imported forgings.

Yes Molnar is import made. I believe it is John Callies company, or was .

Callie’s magnum BBC crank 75 runs

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Callie’s magnum BBC crank 75 runs

That was unusual for sure and very unfortunate.

And very expensive. That crank is rated at 2000 HP and I am well north of that. Plus at the time I was still learning to tune this blower combo and that added to the cause

I assumed it had a blower on it and that’s obviously a big difference and a learning curve.

A friend of mine ran a small block with EFI methanol injection. 2 throttle bodies on a t-ram manifold

World products block

Trashed the block after a season and it’s a wonder the crank stayed in that block

Center main webs beyond cracked right up to the cam tunnel.

My opinion was the block casting was very poor from the way the pieces looked but tuning could easily have contributed

A very expensive experiment that didn’t go well

There are still a few of the Lunati 400 cranks around, I picked one up a couple of years back - counterweights for 5.7" rods, factory heavy metal installed for internal balance. Might have to dig to find one. I wouldn't hesitate to use a Molnar, either.

Bought a Callies magnum in 2003! Its still in my small block been 8600 lots of times 5.7 rod 4.185 bore. Would not hesitate to buy another

Maybe just winter time chatter, but I wonder what it would take for a standard 6.30's, 10.00's SBC at 25-2800 pounds. IE: is 4340 required? Freshen duration each off season or every other?

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
Maybe just winter time chatter, but I wonder what it would take for a standard 6.30's, 10.00's SBC at 25-2800 pounds. IE: is 4340 required? Freshen duration each off season or every other?

I've only had 1 forged crank so far, others are race prepped cast units, 2 vintage Lunati and a Scat. No crank failures.
The failures I've had were a stock 400 cast, and a steel 355 engine. Both heavy piston

6.40's / 10.30's @ #3250

So no, I don't feel like there is a great need for an expensive forged crankshaft for a bracket smallblock, **IF** you can keep the reciprocating weight low.
Long I-beam rods and short compression height pistons are where it's at.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

Yes Molnar is import made. I believe it is John Callies company, or was .

It’s owned by Tom Molnar who used to work for Oliver. Him and Ed are good people there.

I have an 8 counterweight piece in one of my engines. From what I can tell it’s about .07-.08 slower than 6 counterweights. That engine has 300 runs on it and it’s apart to be freshened. It’s going to get a 6 counterweight crank as an A-B test to see if it picks up.

It’s hard to remember who owns what company anymore.

I don’t know why I thought Callie’s was involved with the Molnar brand.

The full counterweighted cranks are usually preferred but weight and windage may be an issue with performance.

My Callie’s cranks are fully counterweighted and weight was pretty average.

I’ve used OEM cranks, steel and cast

GM steel cranks cracked pretty often

Cast nodular iron cranks can only take so much but surprisingly a fair amount of HP and RPM

What rod pin size are you looking for 2.100 dia?

quote:

Originally posted by B.C.Malibu:
What rod pin size are you looking for 2.100 dia?

Yes.

Winberg is billet only for SBC now, they used only USA GM forgings, and those are no more. They tried to buy the stamping dies from GM, but they were scrapped. Thanks brobama.

Nice!

Looks like Crower will probably get the call on the crankshaft too.
Once I can verify the 100% USA steel content.
Not seeing anything "better" so far without going billet, only cheaper.

Buy a billet pump for it, don't trip over dimes to save a penny.

I took the same approach to the offshoring of the American economy, with Lunati in 2007.

Lunati Pro crank and rods 3.875 stroke 4.165 bore. 421

Assembled this one and another for a guy I race with identical, only 434, in the same week.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Buy a billet pump for it, don't trip over dimes to save a penny.

I took the same approach to the offshoring of the American economy, with Lunati in 2007.

Lunati Pro crank and rods 3.875 stroke 4.165 bore. 421

Assembled this one and another for a guy I race with identical, only 434, in the same week.

I tried one of those pumps and ended up throwing away after trying everything to get it to work. The pump is mounted to far back so the oil rolls forward after lifting. I built a pan that worked best with baffles and steps. Then had Stef's build me a pan. Ended up with a Moroso billet pump that I was able to machine shorter. Going dry sump this year.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Nitzsche:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Buy a billet pump for it, don't trip over dimes to save a penny.

I took the same approach to the offshoring of the American economy, with Lunati in 2007.

Lunati Pro crank and rods 3.875 stroke 4.165 bore. 421

Assembled this one and another for a guy I race with identical, only 434, in the same week.

I tried one of those pumps and ended up throwing away after trying everything to get it to work. The pump is mounted to far back so the oil rolls forward after lifting. I built a pan that worked best with baffles and steps. Then had Stef's build me a pan. Ended up with a Moroso billet pump that I was able to machine shorter. Going dry sump this year.

I modified a Champ aluminum pan with a mini sump and mine works great. If that is a Melling pump, which it appears to be.