Might want to check around the oil galley plug where most folks attach the oil pressure line.

It was cometic i believe.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:

quote:

Originally posted by rs72z:
We had a set of head gaskets that didn't come all the way out from under the head. Be sure and get silicone all the way under the edge of the heads.

It is either Felpro or Cometic that has this problem with my SBC. One of them does not have the little triangle piece that goes up towards the intake. They even tell you right on the package to seal that area with silicone.

Richie, Check the date ( should be on the bottom of the tube's of sealent). RTV and others of that tube have a Shelf Life. Where I worked in the past ( Tom will tell you where ) all of that stuff was thrown out after 6 months.
George.

quote:

Originally posted by 358T:
at the drama...

IF the problem is because the sealers are not sticking to the rails then, if it were me, I'd roughen the rails with emory paper or other abrasive device. Then clean with an aggressive cleaner and dry before re-installing the manifold.

IF the problem is something else then there is also some good advise in this thread on where else to look for the problem.

Scott

I have always use a center punch and made a bunch of dimples in the rail to give the silicon something to grab a hold of

Couple good points. Make sure the head is flush on the deck surface. Also, make sure that if you have a vacuum pump that your lines are correct and you are not creating the blow-by. Normally you see it at the pan but if this is the weak point, then that's where the oil will come from.

Shelf life is new. I may have to check a couple tubes to make sure it's still good.

Dave is spot on the head surface angles milling and china wall too. I have to silicone the top head surface leading up to the china wall on the stock stuff or it leaks. Also took a punch and dimpled the wall and manifold surface. Seems to help hold silicone in place. No vac pump and has pos pressure. They wont allow a vac pump in stock! can you imagine that? I bet the new FS cars have them though.. Oh never mind..

How about take it apart, clean the hell out of it with acetone, and put a dab on the rail until it sticks....once you get good adherence scrape that off and it should hold the next time you assemble.

Been using the right stuff for many years and it's tough stuff to not to get it to adhere. But I.always wipe down areas with acetone and white rag until nothing is on white rag.

Dimpling can also be done to give a little more texture, but I've never had to with right stuff.

Let everything sit for 24 hours before starting engine. If it leaks then you have massive blowby.

Date on silicone was good on both types I tried I’m gonna also heat block by China rails see if anything boils out then cover block up and rough up China rails and I already dimpled block

See if it sets up and sticks before putting it together.

Watch what you use to rough up the block. Scotch bright pads are banned from even being purchased at GM supplier locations like ours..anywhere in facilities. because the dust chews up everything in motors. Used to be a huge problem for supply into engine building locations. Always just shake my head when I see shows with guys using air tools with abrasives removing gaskets. Can't imagine how much accumulates in the engine before sealing them up.

40 years and numerous small block and big block manifolds installed with every type of RTV and not one stock or aftermarket block have I ever roughed up or dimpled the china rails.

so what?

you figure it out genius

I can't think of any reason for you to list one more of the many, many, 1000's of things you've never personally done to a race engine.

must be true, I read it on an internet forum posted by a nobody that ain't got shyt nor ever done shyt.

Now back to the OP's issue which the root cause is an improper installation due to his methods and/or spoiled RTV.

I cover everything up before I would even think of roughing up China rails

There is no reason to dimple a block or intake when using a silicone type adhesive or sealant. Dimpling goes back at least 60 years to keep the rubber or cork/rubber gaskets from moving and squeezing out.A properly prepared surface as cleaned, hand scuffing with scotch brite or 300 grit sandpaper then cleaned again with 100% acetone ( not nail polish remover , it has oil in it) Is all that is needed. If properly cured you should have to pry the 2 pieces apart not just lift them off of each other. I could write a bunch of pages on how these types of sealants and adhesives were tested where I had worked.

this^^^

quote:

I can't think of any reason for you to list one more of the many, many, 1000's of things you've never personally done to a race engine.

Imakehp, your dealing with a know it all.