My intended use is for 1/8 mile bracket , 598 powerglide w/5400 stall converter in left steer roadster . Looking for suggestions on time , use of 2-step or not , an what 2-step rpm if used what you would suggest ? I am using a APD max speed carb as my SLE device , had .80 in with no 2-step , consistent 60 foots but racepak showed it's up against converter. Just felt I need to add 2-step back into mix @ 4200 ?? , and lower time from .80 to .40 ? Am I on the right track ?

I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but the common thing to do is use 0.800 to 1 second in the SLE timer and then going up against the 2-Step at some RPM.

I use 1 second and 5,000 RPM in my dragster, but I think most are using a little less RPM on the starting line.

You didn't ask about this, but your converter sounds crazy tight to me. If it were mine, I'd want another 1,000 RPM there if this is a typical 1,000+ hp 598.

Buy a K&R and don't worry no adjustment. They are set to open when second bulb comes on.Everyone says thats fine and not issue.I want mine to open later,but have to sale this box before can buy Biondo. K&R is 1.1 and according to most here means about .5 to .7 on 2 step.

As for two step.Hate them but see where they are good for consistency.

agree on converter for what little its worth.

Mine is set at 1.11 for the sle then the 2 step at 5000. My converter flashes 6650 behind my 598

quote:

598 powerglide w/5400 stall converter

???????

Agree with stall waaayyy to tight for set up...what amount of power out of the 598?

It depends on what delay box you use. Not all can control the SLE and transbrake the same way.

I have an older Digital Delay box. I can't use my SLE on a pro tree. The way mine is set up, I hit the bump button after I prestage. Foot is to the floor, engine is at an idle. I roll into the stage beam and hit the transbrake button. As soon as I see a flicker from the top bulb, I release the transbrake button. The throttle snaps to WOT and I wait for the delay box to release the transbrake.

Trying to do that on a pro tree with my delay box just doesn't work. There's no way for me to get to WOT before I release the transbrake button.

Best thing about full tree racing, I can sit staged for as long as I want. Engine is at an idle with the throttle pedal on the floor. Transbrake is on and just waiting for me to release the button. Person in the other lane can take as long as they want. I'm not burning down the engine waiting for them.

When my SLE releases and the engine goes to WOT, the engine hits 2-step until the transbrake releases. I launch at 4500 and the converter stalls around 6200. I think I have something like 1.045 in the box. All depends on how well you react. Take out enough delay so you don't red light but don't add delay to chase a bad light. Everyone and vehicles all react differently. Your roadster and others dragsters will jump off the line a lot quicker than my door car.

Also depends on how quick engine revs and type induction. With carb I don't see too much time with WOT as issue.WIth injection I do ,but lots don't. Sart with timer around 1.1 if leaving off top bulb and work down till your happy with it.Would be my suggestion.

Also coming in to wonder if you meant to type 6400 instead of 5400 on the stall/flash

I truly Thank You , all members who has replied to my problem . Since the original post , I contacted my engine builder with my question an told him what race pak had showed me . He suggested to delete SLE an use 4800 2-step , than questioned converter flash. . He had originally contacted converter-trans person as to what convertor flash would be required from Dino testing of engine .at this point he feels , an I had given him # of converter I was sold , which is not same # of converter he had called for .so my next step is to call an question converter # that I was sold to # m or flash my engine builder had originally suggested . One thing that I had discovered , was that I am using a APD Max speed carb , which I tended use is for throttle stop . It has air bleed off valves which slows down change to elevate spinning .Because I am bracket racing only at this time , I used it as a SLE and set bleed off valves as suggested by manufacturer . But I discovered as using it for a SLE , you need to open up bleed off valves all the way to enable quick opening of carb . So the way I had bled off valves set , it had made opening of throttle blades very slow , which may of contributed to my slow start or what I felt was sub par 60 ft times , which ,were 1.21-1.22. On e again I appreciate all response
,s, I will keep all updated , on what I find out about converter . I also am planning on getting car back out to test w/o SLE an use 2-step than to try SLE with 2-step with
APD Carb bleed off valves set correctly , to see if I have still have what I feel is not working to b st of its ability .