looking for a 6 post solenoid that i can use to setup for 24 volt cranking ,other than the csr $700 smart start system . Has anyone done this mod ? part numbers and or diagrams would be great if u got them . thanks

Google 12/24 volt battery solenoid.
Place in Texas sells them

Or run your solenoid on 12-16v and the armature on 24

Some trucks used a dual system 12-24 and it was known to cause problems from added wiring and solenoids, Bad connections etc....


This place is great for looking up various items....

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

Theres a reason that deal didnt take off, not necessary, causes to many problems and to expensive. I wouldnt go down that road. No reason 16 volt shouldnt be plenty!

Shane Carr

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
Or run your solenoid on 12-16v and the armature on 24

This, most heavy duty solenoids can handle 24 volts across the contacts. 12 or 16 v to pick up the solenoid. Depending on amp draw could even be easier on the solenoid than 12 volts.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Some trucks used a dual system 12-24 and it was known to cause problems from added wiring and solenoids, Bad connections etc....


This place is great for looking up various items....

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

Thanks just the place i was looking for

I’ve had mine set up on 24v for almost 10 years now. 24v through a remote solenoid, 12v to the rest of the car. I have 2 master cutoff switches hooked together, but is a simple system to set up without anything fancy

When I first tried 24v years ago I wasn't convinced it was a good thing for the starter.
I rigged up some sensors to measure rpm and heat. Much to my surprise it was actually easier on the starter and cooler because it didn't have to crank as long to fire an injection and mag.

Mags and mechanical fuel pumps love rpm, dont ya know.

The only downside I found to 24v to the solenoid was if the neutral safety switch was in the line it immediately fried. So I went 12 and 24 after that.

I had been thinking of just running the water pump&starter off its own battery and the ignition to a small cycle battery 12v.
That way theirs no voltage drop while cranking.

BC,
Couple of problems here.
1: There will always be a voltage drop when starting. It's just a question of how much you can live with.
2: Despite the advertising MSD boxes get stupid below 12.5v. You need volume to keep up with it or an alternator.

Alternator of the proper size and pullied accordingly solves all the problems.

Dave K how will it see a cranking draw if it only feeds the ignition?

BC,
Guess it wasn't clear.
You will be running a larger 3rd battery just for the starter?

My point was that any battery will see a voltage drop when cranking. If conditions are right it can be huge drop.
The Second biggest draw is during the launch.

Either way you may want to set your logger to track voltage. It can be an eye opener.

Things I have run in to along the way.
These days we have powerful but energy hungry ignition boxes.
It's human nature for some reason to look elsewhere for issues and it's usually the last item purchased.
However
IF everything else is deemed correct but:
>The engine revs slowly and should not.
>The engine rpm flattens out but should not.
>The engine rpm drops and puts your face in the dash at some rpm point but should not.
>The engine is hard to start but should not.
>The engine just sounds wrong but should not.
>The engine has a mystery minor misfire/bobble down track but should not.
Look at voltage first.

Poor and/or incorrect grounds can also contribute to the above.

IF all else fails it is probably the convertor.

1 battery runs the starter& water pump this is the only thing it powers.
1 bike battery connects to alternator and everything else.