quote:

Originally posted by Bruce Williams:

Why is this a throw-away unit?
Can you expand a bit more on the analog/perfect band-aid?

First I’ll explain the perfect analog ignition race car as I see it.

If you look at the race cars/dragsters in the Winners Circle at a high dollar event, my bet is that many /most are running analog newer 7al3 or older 7/6al ignition.

This tells me that these winning analog ignition racers spend a great deal of attention/ money on making the mechanical car set-up tune the consistency. The ignition only controls the launch and nothing more.

I spend time looking into door cars in the staging lanes because you can see what they are using (and other things of interest) and the majority are analog with some obsolete Dig 7. Can’t see dragster ignitions and don’t look or know for sure.

The poor racers Band-Aid is this. A $400 MSD 7730 can give the racer with an analog ignition ( 6al /7al) and laptop that does not have the perfect race car (especially door car) the ability to try and improve the mechanical inconsistencies of their car to improve its consistency. It also offers other unlimited programming capabilities to change how your car runs.

After the 1 year warranty, MSD7730 when not working because of a hard input / output failure 7730 is not repairable. Throw it away. Most will last much longer. My first 2011 and second 2013 MSD 7730 that have been in other cars besides mine still work and are raced in my car today.

The MSD 7730 ignition is a very powerful programming controller. The understanding of how this programming can be implemented is what most do not realize if not in a perfect race car imho.

GO GRID!

Hey markemark, The DD relay board is Version 9

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
Hey markemark, The DD relay board is Version 9

The V9 board does not have an isolated terminal to turn ON the ignition like the newer V10 board. V9 shares this +12v signal with everything else you want on with the ignition. Look at the Ignition terminal on your board. How many wires are attached to it, or how many items is it powering up?

Here’s what I suggest trying. Remove the red wire going to the ignition ON of the 7530T from the Ignition terminal on the board. Place this red wire on an open output on the board that is not being used (aux 1, aux 2) and this will now be used to turn the ignition ON. This will also isolate the signal to 7530T to see if this could possibly be your problem.

If the red wire will not reach the new terminal position you can use a small nut + bolt to attach a one hole wire connector and wire to get the extra length you need. Just wrap the connection with electrical tape to protect.

Ok. I will check it when I get home. I also ordered a new ignition box. I ordered the 7720 & the 77303 Controller. I don't have access to another 7530T to try 1st.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bigdrive88,

Mr. Markemark, thank you for your explanation.

I’m not smart enough to use it to it’s full potential but I do run an older 7AL3 with a 7730 Grid controller and a Pro Power coil with No crank trigger. MSD distributer....

This combo has worked great for 10 years.

I use the grid to review runs for rpm and time but no more than just to see it better than on my playback tach.

I’ve also used the grid for start retard, don’t use that anymore, and to program various ignition launch retards. Don’t use that anymore either.

None of what the grid can do was ever responsible for helping to win anything.

Maybe I missed the boat....lol

When I have won it was me, my car and usually some luck along the way.

I hear ya Rich. I just want to get mine back to full power.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I’m not smart enough to use it to it’s full potential but I do run an older 7AL3 with a 7730 Grid controller and a Pro Power coil with No crank trigger. MSD distributer....

This combo has worked great for 10 years.

I use the grid to review runs for rpm and time but no more than just to see it better than on my playback tach.

I’ve also used the grid for start retard, don’t use that anymore, and to program various ignition launch retards. Don’t use that anymore either.

None of what the grid can do was ever responsible for helping to win anything.

Maybe I missed the boat....lol

When I have won it was me, my car and usually some luck along the way.

Ok. Checked the ignition terminal on the board. The only thing on that terminal is the red wire from the MSD however, on the back of the DD switch panel itself there is a terminal for the ignition switch that will power something when you turn the ignition switch on. I had a wire that powers the button on the steering wheel for the onboard Air Compressor. I do not have a pressure switch which controls the air compressor. I control it with a button on the wheel. It was hooked up like that for the last 2 years without an issue though. I unhooked it and connected it to the battery terminal on the board. So now the only think connected to the ignition terminal is the ignition wire.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
Hey markemark, The DD relay board is Version 9

The V9 board does not have an isolated terminal to turn ON the ignition like the newer V10 board. V9 shares this +12v signal with everything else you want on with the ignition. Look at the Ignition terminal on your board. How many wires are attached to it, or how many items is it powering up?

Here’s what I suggest trying. Remove the red wire going to the ignition ON of the 7530T from the Ignition terminal on the board. Place this red wire on an open output on the board that is not being used (aux 1, aux 2) and this will now be used to turn the ignition ON. This will also isolate the signal to 7530T to see if this could possibly be your problem.

If the red wire will not reach the new terminal position you can use a small nut + bolt to attach a one hole wire connector and wire to get the extra length you need. Just wrap the connection with electrical tape to protect.

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
Ok. Checked the ignition terminal on the board. The only thing on that terminal is the red wire from the MSD however, on the back of the DD switch panel itself there is a terminal for the ignition switch that will power something when you turn the ignition switch on. I had a wire that powers the button on the steering wheel for the onboard Air Compressor. I do not have a pressure switch which controls the air compressor. I control it with a button on the wheel. It was hooked up like that for the last 2 years without an issue though. I unhooked it and connected it to the battery terminal o

That was good to move. Are the Aux 1 or 2 outputs being used?

Yes. Aux 1 is Racepak ON & Aux 2 is Racepak & O2 Sensor.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
Ok. Checked the ignition terminal on the board. The only thing on that terminal is the red wire from the MSD however, on the back of the DD switch panel itself there is a terminal for the ignition switch that will power something when you turn the ignition switch on. I had a wire that powers the button on the steering wheel for the onboard Air Compressor. I do not have a pressure switch which controls the air compressor. I control it with a button on the wheel. It was hooked up like that for the last 2 years without an issue though. I unhooked it and connected it to the battery terminal o

That was good to move. Are the Aux 1 or 2 outputs being used?

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
I also ordered a new ignition box. I ordered the 7720 & the 77303 Controller. I don't have access to another 7530T to try 1st.

How’d that new Grid ignition work out?

Talked to Charlie @ digital delay & Greg Kelley @ Motorsports innovations regarding the racepak. Seems very unlikely either of those options are causing any problems. Basically down to the battery & Valve springs. Springs are new PSI triple springs.


I really like the new ignition & the possibilities moving forward however it did not fix the problem. So as of today thinks that I have changed

Ignition box
Coil
Pickup
Wires
Plugs
Rotor
Cap
Unhooked Alternator

Things
Left to try

Battery
Different ignition switch
Maybe something with racepak
Wires for the digital dial board come up behind the coil. Been like that for 2 years. Can’t inagine it’s a problem now.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bigdrive88,