Wondering if any have seen a performance gain with addition of crank trigger?

I know it provides more accurate and more stable timing of ignition.Both should add to consistency. Just curious if enough difference to show on et slip or even dyno numbers.

Little to no increase in HP imho. If shifting with an rpm activated device, a crank trigger Will make the shift more accurately than the distributor trigger. My data logs confirmed this for many rears when using a distributor trigger.

Also, as the distributor gear free play increased, the shift accuracy decreased.

Thanks. Going over some things I want for car and prioritizing them as to cost effective.

How about crank trigger accuracy when using grid. Grid is high on list. If nothing else consistency on track.

N0 performance gains as far as I can tell. The main advantage for me is easy to make timing changes.

And it will drive you nuts if one of the magnets falls out of the wheel. Ask me how I know

I am running a 44 mag with the trigger for starting( retarded) only. Once started I swap to the mag . If I thought there was any gains I would leave it on the trigger.

Thanks guyd I will put that 500 bucks into other things. Heck cpmuter programs shows that new cam would be about 50 hp and 45 tq gain over the blower cam thats in motor and it cost about the same. Want to get enough runs on this one to know what I gain when switching them.

I have swapped between a cranktrigger and distributor pickup at the track between passes. Zero difference in performance.

Scott

Damn a thread with 100% agreement on drr. Better write this date down. LOL
Yea reason is cpl folks missing is why I know.

so far looks like I would be spending money for something extra to cause aproblem.Heck I will pass on that.

Guess I'll throw in a monkey wrench to the 100 percent agreement and say this.... What gains are you looking for? Hp or consistency?

Agree your not going to see a huge HP increase. But in consistency when you see how much smoother the timing is with trigger I'd argue that it has to be more consistent also for bracket racing purposes. It's one less thing fluctuating run to run. Is it huge? Prob not but I'd bet it's better with CT vs Distributor run to run.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

Agree your not going to see a huge HP increase. But in consistency when you see how much smoother the timing is with trigger I'd argue that it has to be more consistent also for bracket racing purposes. It's one less thing fluctuating run to run. Is it huge? Prob not but I'd bet it's better with CT vs Distributor run to run.

This.

There are less mechanical connections with crank trigger. No timing chain/belt slop, no slop at the distributor gear to cam (up/down), no cam twist. The crank trigger is fixed to the crank, the crank hooks to the rod, the rod hooks to the piston, the piston sees the spark from the crank trigger. Simple

Now someone will say that's not the case. Try putting a degree wheel on the crank and a dial indicator on the rotor terminal and see what you get for movement.

I can verify that replacing a crank trigger / msd system with a dual point distributor and battery coil will run an identical ET in back to back runs. 4.90's dragster.

quote:

Originally posted by 69427:

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

Agree your not going to see a huge HP increase. But in consistency when you see how much smoother the timing is with trigger I'd argue that it has to be more consistent also for bracket racing purposes. It's one less thing fluctuating run to run. Is it huge? Prob not but I'd bet it's better with CT vs Distributor run to run.

This.

There are less mechanical connections with crank trigger. No timing chain/belt slop, no slop at the distributor gear to cam (up/down), no cam twist. The crank trigger is fixed to the crank, the crank hooks to the rod, the rod hooks to the piston, the piston sees the spark from the crank trigger. Simple

Now someone will say that's not the case. Try putting a degree wheel on the crank and a dial indicator on the rotor terminal and see what you get for movement.

I will take you up on that. Already have degree wheel on hub and setting a indicator on mg rotor should not be issue. May be a day or two but I will report back on findings.

Not best set up. I did do it 5 times with fairly consistent result. I had .003 rotor movement measured at rotor tip with 1 degree crank movement. If I had a small degree ring for mag I could tell if one to one.

Now understanding mine not bbc. I have mag drive with solid shaft going from base to oil pump with gear in middle . I do have a belt in base that drives gear mag is in. I also have geardrive with very little to no slop. I do see where it could add up. Belt, cam to drive gear and belt between two pulleys.

My question is that since it takes more to drive a mag than regular distributor. Is it under load the whole time and there fore taking up any slop that would make for differance between crank and rotor? Notthat this apply's to most here,but I am one looking for answer of the post question.

Yo answer question what gains. Consistency mainly but extra power never hurt my feeling. Amount would be so small you would only see on dyno. Was hoping someone had tested it on dyno and would chime in. 4 hp not anything ,but if you find 4 hp ten times then you made good gain.Plus just knowledge is worth something.

Wideopen

I forgot you have the Hemi, so maybe the tolerances don't stack up as much.

I guess you have to look at how close you run your timing to MAX efficiency. You know the weather plays a role in this, so maybe you leave some on the table to play it safe and use the shoe polish to adjust. I do.

Not sure what mag you are using, on my 44’s you can hardly turn them by hand(make sure to ground it) the resistance in itself will eat up your play. Put your funds into a data-recorder with fuel flow capabilities if you don’t have one. That and a weather station. This is where you can start to see gains and keep your engine in a safe place.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD1964,

OK, I'm going to ask an ignorant question.
years ago I used to run a mag on a small block ford. If memory serves the mag had resistance up to a point then it would snap and that was where spark ocured. So question would be using Wide's numbers, if clearance was taken up and then it went the other way there would be a total of .006 movement back and forth. Would that be enough to change timing 2 degrees advance to retard?

Advice from experience. Don't hold the output when cleaning the mag, or at least have something soft to land on..lol

Dave

From what I have found with the timing light I use is a very stable timing reference. I do not see any bouncing around even at idle(1400). Hope that helps.