DragRaceResults.Com    Bracket Talk    Bracket Talk Forum  Hop To Forum Categories  Tech Talk - by Abruzzi    Cooling Fan vs 16v Battery
Page 1 2 3 4 5 
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Cooling Fan vs 16v Battery
 Login/Join
 
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
I had to replace 2 fans because they burned up.


You got bigger issues Didn't think of that
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
I had to replace 2 fans because they burned up.


You got bigger issues Didn't think of that


You may be right.
Originally setup had a relay, so it supplied 16V to the fan. Ground went to a common ground terminal with 6 gauge to battery. Everything is the same now except running the step down, Spal fans.

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3309 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
All I will say about this is I had to replace 2 fans because they burned up. I cured it by installing a turbo start step down module Problem solved..lol

Dave


Bucky,

Would a resister cutting voltage also cut amps and would that not slow the fan down?
My memory just doesn't work as well anymore trying to remember this stuff.. CRS syndrome..

Dave

I wonder if a simple resistor would work in that case too?


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3309 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
I think yes to both David.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6408 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
Since I do not know what you mean by a simple resistor, let me add some details. In order to drop the voltage from 16 volts, you would take 2 resistors in series to create a voltage divider. Plus they would need to support 25 amps like the Turbo Start drop down box since you are running 2 fans. If you look at the Turbo start module, it has a large heat sink due to its ability to support the 25 amps and the heat created by it when loaded. So using ohms law Power equals voltage x current, 16volts x 25 amps = 400 Watts on the resistors. Those resistors are not simple. LOL
 
Posts: 294 | Location: New Milford, CT USA | Registered: December 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by J Olejniczak:
Since I do not know what you mean by a simple resistor, let me add some details. In order to drop the voltage from 16 volts, you would take 2 resistors in series to create a voltage divider. Plus they would need to support 25 amps like the Turbo Start drop down box since you are running 2 fans. If you look at the Turbo start module, it has a large heat sink due to its ability to support the 25 amps and the heat created by it when loaded. So using ohms law Power equals voltage x current, 16volts x 25 amps = 400 Watts on the resistors. Those resistors are not simple. LOL


i believe that. Good info thx


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6408 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
Ok so here is follow up to my original post. After testing the battery, going over car wiring, and checking the charger to make sure all were good, it ended up falling back on charging. It appears that when my car is idling the volts are at 16.1 to 16 with all accessories on. The alternator appears to only really put out a charge when it is at WOT or above 2000 RPM so at idle there will be no charging from the alternator. This has led to the conclusion that the demand time that I am requiring from the fan to cool the car is not allowing the charger to keep up between rounds. The alternator is a 1-Wire Micro Mini Alternator 55 Amp 16v.

With the charger connected (car not running) the charger is correctly charging with 17.2-17.5 volts but when I turn the fan on it will then drop to 16.4-16.5 therefore not charging the battery.
 
Posts: 232 | Location: On the top of a bus! | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
As I said that alternator is useless

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of rusty
posted Hide Post
at the trailer you need 25 amp chrger or higher if you can


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1415 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
If you are running an MSD Power Grid, it records the battery voltage on the run.
You can then see what your alternator is doing voltage wise vs. RPM.


1.34 9.42@ 142.41 1.29 5.97 @ 114.00 @ #3251 Better in 2022
427 BBC by S&S Speed Center, AFD, Enderle MFI by Spud Miller
Trackside Products, Sepanek Racing T400, Dynamic converter, Autoweld, Santhuff, Smith Racecraft,
His real name is Richard but they call it "**** Fords Body Shop"
 
Posts: 105 | Location: upstate NY | Registered: January 15, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
Grid has just been installed as of yesterday. Charger is XS Intellicharge and also have Turbo Start as a backup. Both go 25 amp or higher if i remember correctly.
 
Posts: 232 | Location: On the top of a bus! | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
surely you've seen this battery charger in the pits of serious racers who want and need the best. This charger is the gold standard, the benchmark for drag racers. it is made in the USA, specifically Connecticut. It charges at 30amps and is what you need but no charger will overcome that useless alternator




which is the same charger as this



and both are the same as this one who is the manufacture

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of NC3x58
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinChicken:
Grid has just been installed as of yesterday. Charger is XS Intellicharge and also have Turbo Start as a backup. Both go 25 amp or higher if i remember correctly.


Same charger we use in our cars. With a 100 amp HOP Super Mini alternator, we can easily go an entire day without charging on the charger IF we start the day with a full battery (16V batteries do not like to be run down as it is, so we leave on trickle all week anyway). They only time we charge them is the first couple passes because we feel slightly guilty if we don't put it on while car is just sitting for an hour or so lol

This is even with a car with electric fuel pump, on gas (so fan on more often than not) but also the heavier D1600 battery with more reserve. Now we have both cars on methanol, one with an electric pump but fan never comes on and the other now a belt pump with fan on more than door car due to rad line size and size of radiator.


Nick Craig

1971 Camaro Split Bumper
376ci LS3
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
I have a Rock charger also. Going to upgrade the alternator, just need to find one that will fit the moroso waterpump bracket.
 
Posts: 232 | Location: On the top of a bus! | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
posted Hide Post
I run the mini alternator (it is the ONLY one that will fit) and have for years. Works great and data logger shows it is charging. Mine was originally one of those high dollar race ones. After years it quit working and local alternator shop said it was nothing special inside, typical factory stuff.

If you are having problems you may have other issues, bad grounds, loose wires, too small of wires, bad connections, bad battery or bad alternator. Putting a big bad alternator on there is a band-aid to fixing the problem.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4017 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
What size pully are you running?
 
Posts: 232 | Location: On the top of a bus! | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
for clarity

Mini Alternator




Ultra Mini Alternator



USELESS...

unless you run on alky, with a belt driven pump and 16 volts THEN the ultra mini will work for you/your load.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of NC3x58
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinChicken:
What size pully are you running?


That's a valid point as well.. If you aren't running a 5" pulley on crank and like a 2.5" or whatever it is on the alternator, it won't spin fast enough no matter which one you use.


Nick Craig

1971 Camaro Split Bumper
376ci LS3
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
This is the the alternator used on both my Firebird and Dragster, same size alternator when I ran 12 volts too.

https://ecae.com/product/16-volt-120-amp/

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
posted Hide Post
While I am running only 12 volts, I use the House of Payne super mini 100A alternator, which is basically a GM CS 121 alternator. With everything on, water pump, radiator fan, transmission cooler fan, fuel pump, head and tail lights I still have 13.2 volts at idle. They are very fairly priced at $200 for a 12 volt, $235 for a 16 volt


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3100 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2 3 4 5  
 

DragRaceResults.Com    Bracket Talk    Bracket Talk Forum  Hop To Forum Categories  Tech Talk - by Abruzzi    Cooling Fan vs 16v Battery

© DragRaceResults.com 2024