Installing my first set ever, brand new 24* Profiler Sniper X heads. Have read the instructions, watched a U tube on it and seem pretty straight forward when setting the stand heights and getting push rod lengths
Looking for any tips, do's and don'ts etc from those who have done it

Thanks

I suggest starting with the heads on a work bench,get the stand height correct then move the heads to the block. In my experience this has been for me the easiest way. Don't forget to include a head gasket when you mock up the heads on the block to measure push rod length. You are right it is not very hard, just time consuming.

be ready to grind on the stands to fit the heads

Make sure you have pushrod clearance.

Spanky, where is the pushed clearance an issue? I have never seen that issue but probably have not installed as many sets as you. I have only done a few on some small blocks and one big block.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
Spanky, where is the pushed clearance an issue? I have never seen that issue but probably have not installed as many sets as you. I have only done a few on some small blocks and one big block.

On the intake side up top next to the intake ports. The EX's usually have tons of room. Make sure you use the correct diameter PR when you check for clearance.

Setting the kit up is easy, just take your time. If the heads are new with standard valve lengths for that head, it really should bolt right on. If it's older with many VJ or valve length changes then you will have some adjusting to do.

Ok,have that on the set I am working with now. Brodix heads with Harland sharp shaft rocker and 3/8 pushrods. Had to get creative but it works.

TI valves with lash caps on the intake, 1/2 inch push rods on the exh, Reher morrison ran a cnc push rod clearance program on the heads but David said I still may have to det the die grinder out

Definitely use the stand height gauge the send. T&D was very helpful with getting the right shims sent to me as well

If you run big lift the stand hight checking tool won't be right. It's a matter of opinion on what is correct as far as the pattern and where you want the roller on the valve tip. Make absolutely sure the roller tip lands square on the top of the valve. Mine did not and required machining the stand

quote:

Originally posted by Will Harrison:
If you run big lift the stand hight checking tool won't be right. It's a matter of opinion on what is correct as far as the pattern and where you want the roller on the valve tip. Make absolutely sure the roller tip lands square on the top of the valve. Mine did not and required machining the stand

Will did you have to machine the bottom of the bar to get the rocker fulcrum closer to the head? On the intake side with the tall ports I did not want to remove any more material from the head as it was already thin.

I bought a set for my Dart 360 heads. Intake stands were too low because of the longer intake valves I use plus the lash caps. If I shimmed the stands up enough to work, the bolt hole that ties the intake stands to the exhaust stands would have been out of the adjustment slot. Exhaust valves are standard length and the exhaust stands worked perfectly.

Contacted T&D. They had the taller stand I needed and it only cost me postage to have it exchanged. No complaints from T&D with their service.

As mentioned above, Do the stand height adjustment on the bench. It's not hard to do, just time consuming.

After bolting the heads onto the engine, I then calculated the pushrod length required. When I went to put the pushrods in, I found a few pushrod passages through the head needed to be modified to allow room for the pushrods. Unlike pedestal rockers, shaft rockers position the rocker directly over the valve. This means the pushrod angle changes slightly and some clearancing through the head may be required.

Nice thing about the shaft rockers is that you don't need super tall valve covers over them. When I ran pedestal rockers, I also had a girdle on them. Needed tall rocker covers plus rocker cover extensions to cover everything.

quote:

Originally posted by Bruce Williams:

quote:

Originally posted by Will Harrison:
If you run big lift the stand hight checking tool won't be right. It's a matter of opinion on what is correct as far as the pattern and where you want the roller on the valve tip. Make absolutely sure the roller tip lands square on the top of the valve. Mine did not and required machining the stand

Will did you have to machine the bottom of the bar to get the rocker fulcrum closer to the head? On the intake side with the tall ports I did not want to remove any more material from the head as it was already thin.

I removed from the bottom of the stand, but not necessarily to get it closer to the head but to make the rocker land square on top of the valve. The stands were made crooked. Once they measured straight, they landed perfectly square.

quote:

Make absolutely sure the roller tip lands square on the top of the valve. Mine did not and required machining the stand.

I removed from the bottom of the stand, but not necessarily to get it closer to the head but to make the rocker land square on top of the valve. The stands were made crooked. Once they measured straight, they landed perfectly square.[/QUOTE]

Just went through this with a set of Jesels on a set of BMF heads. Each exhaust stand had to be altered. Was .010 -.000 on each stand. Hand lapped and pattern checked multiple times on each ex valve until a full pattern was made across the valve tip. It started out just showing on the first .080 of the tip. Unknown whether it was a stand problem or rocker pad machining problem.

This is why pre assembly is so important, too many bad tolerances, you cannot take for granted that everything is correct. Between degreeing the cam, checking p/v, and making the stands correct, i believe the rings were seated already.