I am in the process of building a new door car and i was wondering what most people are using to make your brake light's work as far as a switch and how are you wiring them?

pressure switch

I'm building a S10 style truck with a tubular column but a stock style/modified brake pedal. I simply used an early GM plunger style brake light switch. I fabbed up a little bracket that bolts to the factory column mount. The GM switch is threaded, so easily adjustable and cost me $8 at Napa.

This is a tube chasis car and i have not quite figured out how i will do it yet.

Thanks

I recommend a hydraulic pressure switch for reliability. Borg Warner (BWD) P/N S194 is what I have been using on my race cars for over 20 years. 1/8" Male NPT threads, 2 male bullet terminals, N.O. It is very compact, about the size of a small walnut. I mount them in brass Tee fittings close to the master cylinder.
It was the OEM brake light switch on most U.S. vehicles for almost 40 years. Never used by Chevrolet, but it appeared on every other GM brand, (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac), plus Dodge, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Chrysler, Plymouth, Jeep, AMC, Hudson, etc...
They react quickly, and last forever. I use them to trigger/release 2-steps as well as brake lights. I know Advance has them for about $10, so does Speedway Motors.
O'Reilly sells a Standard Ignition version, SLS27. Haven't tried that one, probably identical or similar. Lifetime warranty, too.
Since the parts stores no longer employ many car/parts guys, just ask for a brake light switch for a 65 Ford F-250 pickup. If they need to know what engine, tell them it has a 352.

I used above brake pressure switch in mine.

painless has a nice switch with the connector, comes on at 25 PSI. good price

https://www.amazon.com/Painles...32&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Joe

I use the switch Footbrake Jim recommended. I use it for my 2 step when no box racing. If you have a Hurst roll control it threads right into the port so you don't even have to cut a brake line.

Thanks guy's