I have an altered with all Strange brakes. 4 wheel and master cylinder is mounted on the floor below wheel calipers.
Problem is you have to pump up pedal to get it to stop good. The master cylinder is good because when you do pump it up it holds with lots of pressure. After normal checking and bleeding system did not resolve issue I put 2 Lbs residual check valves in there. Seems to help a little but sure did not fix it.

Should I try a 4 Lbs residual valve or am I missing something?

Curly

2 pound for disc brakes.

Info.

Dave

What bore size is the master cylinder? Might have to go up a size if its too small.

Silly question but bleeders are at top of calipers correct and residual valve in both lines one for front and one for rear

Bleeders are on top and both front and rear I put residual valves on there. My understanding was to use the 2 Lbs for disc brakes but it did not help much at all.

i have seen warped rotors push the pads back going down the track.one pump solid pedal

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What bore size is the master cylinder? Might have to go up a size if its too small.

my real guess is this is the problem

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Originally posted by rusty:

quote:

What bore size is the master cylinder? Might have to go up a size if its too small.

my real guess is this is the problem

I am going to look into which master cylinder it is. I know it is a Strange but not sure which one of the two they have. If it is the smaller one certainly cheap and easy enough to change to the larger one.

Call Strange and ask their opinion

I had a similar problem with my Dodge Daytona years back. Turns out the highest point in the brake system was holding some air. This was over the rear axle where the flex brake line connected. I pumped up the brakes and loosened the connection and sure enough some air came out and I final bled the system again and it was fine after that.

I did call Strange and his only response was the brake pedal needs a 5.5 to 1 ratio. That does not make any sense at all. The pedal is mushy (like air in system) but when I pump it the car stops very good and brakes hold. Pedal does not go down any further which would indicate a bad master cylinder.

I think I will look at system again and maybe try bleeding it at highest point. Now may be a good time to change out with fresh fluid again and bleed system one more time. If that does not do it then buy a larger master cylinder assuming mine is the smaller one. Right now I have many major projects going on here so this has not been a high priority.

Thank you for the help.

I've played with master cylinders and a brake pressure gauge many years ago trying to optimize my brake situation. There use to be a good read on Mark Williams site about brakes, pedal ratio and master cylinder bore size. Bigger is not necessarily the right direction to head. 3/16 brake lines and 7/8 bore master with a good pedal ratio is what has worked for me. Let us know what you find if and when you get it sorted out.

I do have a Brake Pressure gauge and I set up my data logger to record brake pressure to.

If you a pressure gauge plumbed in at the Caliper you should have 1100 Psi at the first hit of the pedal..not after several pumps...It sounds like you have Air in the system..need a pressure bleeder to exhaust trapped air ..Pedal ratio and correct Bore size = proper PSI at the Caliper..Providing there is no Air In the system