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DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Seems like everything is 6-10 weeks right now. Powerglide parts are really hard to come by, most everything from Sonnax is on backorder. Hell I can even get a B&M trans cooler right now, everyone is saying July for the one I need


Not seems IS. Building a house for a customer. Now requires ordering everything 2 to 3 months out or before you start the house. Better add 25% to cost because it will kore than likely be at least that much of increase.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4239 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Some folks laugh at me about trying to always have two or three of everything in or on car. Well until they need something that I might have. I did same thing with Harley Davidson. I had full set of gaskets and spare of most everything, because shyt always breaks when parts house is closed. Can not count how many guys have called me on Saturday night or Sunday needing a part.

Just saying maybe order two sets when ordering.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4239 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
Ya'll may not want to hear this.. But try Ebay.

I waited over a month for my last set and was checking everyplace I could think of every day. Checked ebay and a guy (business) put a set up for sale. Cheaper than Jegs and free shipping. I canceled the order from Jegs.

So, I will suggest to check it out. I just did a quick look and there is a pair of 4.165 x .051 for 148.00.
Just a thought if you can stand to lose .015 in thickness..

Dave


I'm not at all against using all resources including ebay. That thickness does concern me though. I'm kind of on the edge compression wise and until I get a really nice handle on the tune, I don't want to make it any more sensitive.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6421 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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I say after a few heat cycles because from my experience as the metal gets hot it expands which compresses the gasket more. After it cools then you do not have as tight of a seal as you did before. Even with good head studs I find it helps to re torque them.

Yes it is a little bit of a hassle, I have to remove the headers and the shaft rockers but I think it is worth it.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4066 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I say after a few heat cycles because from my experience as the metal gets hot it expands which compresses the gasket more. After it cools then you do not have as tight of a seal as you did before. Even with good head studs I find it helps to re torque them.

Yes it is a little bit of a hassle, I have to remove the headers and the shaft rockers but I think it is worth it.


For that to be true the head studs would have to stretch more (I.e. higher strain in the stud to produce more load on the gasket) when hot vs room temperature. The studs are the only thing squishing the gasket. You have any proof behind your statement? You ever torqued a head once, taken it apart without heat cycles and measured the gasket vs. after heat cycles?

If you’re talking brand new out of the box heads, block, studs, then I believe you could get a little strain relieving while running that can move things around a little bit. But on seasoned parts it just doesn’t happen.

Bucky, what compression would you be with .055? I bet it’s not enough to worry about, especially at < 20 psi.
 
Posts: 936 | Location: my own little world | Registered: July 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Bucky, what compression would you be with .055? I bet it’s not enough to worry about, especially at < 20 psi.


At .066 I am 12.6:1. I do plan on going above 20 when I get my sh1t together tune and other wise.


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6421 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I say after a few heat cycles because from my experience as the metal gets hot it expands which compresses the gasket more. After it cools then you do not have as tight of a seal as you did before. Even with good head studs I find it helps to re torque them.

Yes it is a little bit of a hassle, I have to remove the headers and the shaft rockers but I think it is worth it.


For that to be true the head studs would have to stretch more (I.e. higher strain in the stud to produce more load on the gasket) when hot vs room temperature. The studs are the only thing squishing the gasket. You have any proof behind your statement? You ever torqued a head once, taken it apart without heat cycles and measured the gasket vs. after heat cycles?

If you’re talking brand new out of the box heads, block, studs, then I believe you could get a little strain relieving while running that can move things around a little bit. But on seasoned parts it just doesn’t happen.

Bucky, what compression would you be with .055? I bet it’s not enough to worry about, especially at < 20 psi.


I can tell you this. If you torque your heads today and check them tonight or tomorrow they are the same and you will not get much if any. After you run it through some heat cycles you will have to tighten them some to get them to full torque again. That tells me something is happening. Have you ever pulled a motor apart and thought a lot of those bolts did not feel like they were that tight?

If you think it does not do any good then do not do it. From my experience it helps and I will continue to do so. I may be wrong but I know it is not hurting anything even if by chance it is not doing any good. And I am a firm believer in using good gaskets and head studs. On my heads I have to take off headers, shaft rockers and some of the valve springs to torque the heads. I would not do it if I did not think it helps.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4066 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I have not retorqued anything for many years.

Did do it years ago and promptly had head gasket blow out. Did not happen a lot but once was enough with aluminum heads. Almost Guaranteed to "burn a ditch" as we used to say

I used Fel Pro Blue gaskets back then and use Cometics these days...and have a lot more compression....

The suggested way of retorqueing was to back the bolt off some and retorque...

One reason not to do it was using a stock block with wet head bolt holes, you disturbed the sealer you used on the bolts....and might get some slight leaks.

I used Permatex #2 or Indian head shellac....Once it dried it was not going to reseal after moving a bolt....

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD3550
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Back in the early days, we never re torqued anything. Problem being after the block was sonic checked with those OEM blocks. As it was explained to me. At times the sand cores would move a bit
during the manufacturing process causing erratic wall thickness. As the blocked aged, core shift was prevalent. Even worse was a thin deck thickness.. Severe internal scaling.

Heli coils... full inventory..
 
Posts: 1409 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
quote:
Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I say after a few heat cycles because from my experience as the metal gets hot it expands which compresses the gasket more. After it cools then you do not have as tight of a seal as you did before. Even with good head studs I find it helps to re torque them.

Yes it is a little bit of a hassle, I have to remove the headers and the shaft rockers but I think it is worth it.


For that to be true the head studs would have to stretch more (I.e. higher strain in the stud to produce more load on the gasket) when hot vs room temperature. The studs are the only thing squishing the gasket. You have any proof behind your statement? You ever torqued a head once, taken it apart without heat cycles and measured the gasket vs. after heat cycles?

If you’re talking brand new out of the box heads, block, studs, then I believe you could get a little strain relieving while running that can move things around a little bit. But on seasoned parts it just doesn’t happen.

Bucky, what compression would you be with .055? I bet it’s not enough to worry about, especially at < 20 psi.


I can tell you this. If you torque your heads today and check them tonight or tomorrow they are the same and you will not get much if any. After you run it through some heat cycles you will have to tighten them some to get them to full torque again. That tells me something is happening. Have you ever pulled a motor apart and thought a lot of those bolts did not feel like they were that tight?

If you think it does not do any good then do not do it. From my experience it helps and I will continue to do so. I may be wrong but I know it is not hurting anything even if by chance it is not doing any good. And I am a firm believer in using good gaskets and head studs. On my heads I have to take off headers, shaft rockers and some of the valve springs to torque the heads. I would not do it if I did not think it helps.


It never hurts to check IMO. But I probably have the worst case going AL heads and AL block, BBC that makes over 1200 HP. I use Cometic MLS gaskets, and I have retorqued on occasion and have not found any that were loose, even tried backing off and retorque noting the position of the nuts, still no movement. I will add this, from what I have seen, if things loosen up, check your heads! Bet they are soft and the washer is digging in a bit. This situation is worse if the head stud kit is supplied with small diameter washers!!!!

Prior to the MLS stuff, retorqueing was usually needed....
 
Posts: 2161 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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