Someone messaged me about how the car is coming along. Plain & simple, slow. In 2 weeks, we hope to finish the wiring.

I'm still on track for completion for testing in the fall. There have been plenty of challenges along the way: Health, COVID & motor/builder issues. Plus, I've thrown in early retirement; that should give me more time for work on the car.

Anyway, my health issue is taken care of. Going to see about the motor this Fri. one year from dropping it off. If it's not there, I'll file a police report. Then file a claim with my race car insurance. The 3K deposit may have to be done in small claims. I hope it doesn't come to all this shyt.

So, as it stands getting the motor back from the builder is needed to work towards completion.

Since you are in Vegas I would be curious to hear who this engine shop is. Also if you are needing someone let me know, as I know a guy

B King if you do not get your motor back soon do you have a backup or at least something to get back quick. If you can throw something in the engine bay at least your back

quote:

Originally posted by Al Alguire:
Since you are in Vegas I would be curious to hear who this engine shop is. Also if you are needing someone let me know, as I know a guy

Al, It's the popular shop that does the motors for a good many at the track. We have never had an issue with them, nor have I heard of anyone else having an issue.

Hopefully tomorrow I find out some answers, If not I'll get with you.

quote:

Originally posted by Footloose:
B King if you do not get your motor back soon do you have a backup or at least something to get back quick. If you can throw something in the engine bay at least your back

My back-up is in the car & freshened, but is not configured for a ProCharger; 14:1 compression. If need be we will run it N/A.

Stopped at the engine shop this morning, they are at the Div. 7 LORDS race. So, I guess I'll have to call next week.

My son & I spent about 12 hrs. in the shop yesterday trying to finish up the wiring. We are about 98% complete & ran into one snag. The transbrake input protection device, I had bought one. While the instructions are not clear, we think we know how or what ECU wire to connect it to. My son is going to call Holley this week. We want to make sure we don't damage the ECU. Other than that, everything is tested/working in the system & we need to finish up a little in the wiring loom after putting in the below device.

Overview
PN 554-128 is a device that allows for an ECU input to be safely connected directly to the +12V side of the transbrake
solenoid. This device protects the ECU input from damaging flyback voltage which occurs when the transbrake is
released.

Installation
1. There are three wires that need to be connected as follows:
Red – Connect to the +12V side of the transbrake that is powered when the transbrake is activated.
Blue – Connect to the ECU input. This will be an “H” type input in the Holley ECU. This will come with an ECU
pin pre-crimped.
Black – Connect to a vehicle chassis ground.

I was trying to get the rear-end finished & only need to make a bracket for the brake line. Plus, I still need to add gear oil & do the break-in of gears according to Moser.

Good luck. Sounds like it coming along. Great feeling when you complete a big step like that.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
Good luck. Sounds like it coming along. Great feeling when you complete a big step like that.

The end of this month I'm retiring & hoping to spend more time than one day out of the week working on this project. I'm still planning on testing the combo this fall & maybe a little racing.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
My son & I spent about 12 hrs. in the shop yesterday trying to finish up the wiring. We are about 98% complete & ran into one snag. The transbrake input protection device, I had bought one. While the instructions are not clear, we think we know how or what ECU wire to connect it to. My son is going to call Holley this week. We want to make sure we don't damage the ECU. Other than that, everything is tested/working in the system & we need to finish up a little in the wiring loom after putting in the below device.

In System Parameters select Ignition Parameters and then Enable Rev Limiter #1.

In Pin Map / View Inputs, take you unassigned input and drag it into a H input type box.

Go back to System Parameters go down to Inputs/ Outputs and in the System Inputs Function you should see the Rev Limiter #1 in bright white and it’ll have a ECU Pin number propagated for the Blue wire. You select the type of input in the adjacent box, and for you it’ll be +12v using the 554-128.

For me, I use a simple Bosch relay and input a clean ground signal to Holley HP so that it knows when the TB is enabled, also using this to start the Holley Data Acquisition.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

In System Parameters select Ignition Parameters and then Enable Rev Limiter #1.

In Pin Map / View Inputs, take you unassigned input and drag it into a H input type box.

Go back to System Parameters go down to Inputs/ Outputs and in the System Inputs Function you should see the Rev Limiter #1 in bright white and it’ll have a ECU Pin number propagated for the Blue wire. You select the type of input in the adjacent box, and for you it’ll be +12v using the 554-128.

For me, I use a simple Bosch relay and input a clean ground signal to Holley HP so that it knows when the TB is enabled, also using this to start the Holley Data Acquisition.

Thanks for trying to help! The Sniper system isn't as robust as the HP or maybe I'm not that savvy with my system. I went to the ignition parameters & found nothing to do as you indicated. I went to the pin map, it has 5 inputs & 6 outputs. I have the #2 input assigned for both the low side 2 step & launch retard. We are going to ask Holley if the blue wire can be used to trigger the #2 input wire.

^^^^^ Ok, thought you had mpfi. I’m not sure but I don’t believe 554-128 is for sniper, could be wrong. Sniper might be as easy as a ground wire to enable 2-step.

Personally, I wouldn’t waste my time calling Holley. I suggest you go to Holley Forums, register and post your questions. Excellent advice here. https://forums.holley.com/foru...ay.php?13-Holley-EFI

Or register at Devin Vanderhoofs Facebook site and get some excellent help as well.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/389548721383891/

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Personally, I wouldn’t waste my time calling Holley. I suggest you go to Holley Forums, register and post your questions. Excellent advice here. https://forums.holley.com/foru...ay.php?13-Holley-EFI

Or register at Devin Vanderhoofs Facebook site and get some excellent help as well.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/389548721383891/

Thanks, I'm on the Holley Forum. I did a search & found no answers. I will check into the other link.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
now he ain’t got the coin to pay for his engine rebuild, blaming the engine guy for not finishing it. You got to pay the man mother fucer! Pathetic, A real fucing loser!

The biggest sucker on the planet took the bait. You are a pathetic old man, that's scared to compete in the Big Show.

The motor is done, I pay $$$ for the balance owed with the 3K deposit I put down. I pick the motor up 1st week of May; my 1st week off on early retirement. I will PM some people with the receipts (with dates) so the Pathetic/Scared Loser ED. Can beg his Daddy to read the PMs for him.

Yep B King its sad that Scott wont boot that tiny dyk big headed jerk off because of his post count-he adds nothing but his hate for anyone but himself on here

This message has been edited. Last edited by: vetman,

Ordered my Brodix sheet metal valve covers & new flexplate today.

1st week of May plan on removing spare motor & stuffing the ProCharger configured motor in.

Exciting!!!

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Ordered my Brodix sheet metal valve covers & new flexplate today.

Got the Valve covers, flexplate & water/methanol kit in today. The valve covers are sweet with 1/2" thick rails. I'm not happy with the flexplate it's a Summit brand & I thought it was advertised as made in the USA; It's clearly made in Mexico. I will have to check the advertisement again to see if they or I screwed up.

Pick-up the motor today, almost 13 months since dropping it off. I can't wait to hear the story on it, not that it matters.