What are some best practices for inside the trailer mounting on walls and floors? How are you mounting your d rings? What other mounting systems are you using?

What about walls? When you want to mount something stout like a tire mount or even a dragster lift, do you go through to the outside? I have seen this, and the factory even does it with some items. Is that the best way?

Everything you need to know is right here in the most view thread of all time in Tech Talk


https://drr.infopop.cc/eve/foru...12/m/9907057776/p/37

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Everything you need to know is right here in the most view thread of all time in Tech Talk


https://drr.infopop.cc/eve/foru...12/m/9907057776/p/37

Great thread on a nicely equipped trailer from the factory. But most are modifying already built trailers, which can bring other challenges.

The methods for attachment are the same. D rings require plates under the floor and anything attached to the walls requires grounds/plates spanning the framing. On existing trailers most will take the easier route to plate over the interior wall panels rather than removing them to plate directly on the framing/wall studs.

I have a ton of D-rings in my trailer and have either 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum plates under the floor beneath all of them. I used to make my own plates, but now I just buy the 6K flush mount D-rings and backing plates as a set off eBay. Saves my cutting and drilling time.

For the walls, I just run 1" self-tappers into the steel frame. I don't have anything real heavy like slick hangers or anything. The trailer spare is mostly supported by the wheel well.

I'm actually installing a dragster lift in the next few days, and will just use the self-tappers there also. The weight will be supported by the frame of the lift, so it's mostly about holding the lift frame in place and not supporting the weight.

A good friend of mine just installed a junior lift in his trailer that does not arch all the way across the trailer, and he did through-bolt it from the outside of the trailer wall.

On my floor mount D rings I used backing plates and welded in steel to tie them to the frame members. On the walls I used small D rings and used self drilling screws to the vertical supports but they are only for straps to hold things in place like battery charger or fans. I have a spare tire mount on the front outside of my trailer that I used an aluminum plate on the inside that spans the vertical supports and I bolted through the wall to it. On my inside spare mount I have the spare on the floor against the wall attached with a J hook to a piece of E-track n the wall. my trailer is an older Pace and I've replaced the floor,walls and ceiling. the wall supports are just U shaped fence posts so I wouldn't want much weight up high on the wall. When I stripped it there were broken welds from flex that is repaired.

I had never seen the d rings that include the backers. Slick!
Does anyone go though routers g so the top part is completely flush with the floor? Eliminates a trip hazard but a lot of extra work

I've always tried to lay out my D-rings so they are right over a floor beam. Even if the were just before or past the beam, I could weld a plate to the beam and put the D-rings into that plate. No matter how much plywood floor you bolt into, it's still just plywood holding your car in place.

Just my 2cents....

My floor is smooth aluminum and came with large swivel D-rings mounted to 3/16” aluminum plate underneath welded between the cross members. When I added floor rings to move the car position, I duplicated what the factor installed. Summit had the exact same D-rings and I purchased aluminum plate locally and had it welded.

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:
I've always tried to lay out my D-rings so they are right over a floor beam. Even if the were just before or past the beam, I could weld a plate to the beam and put the D-rings into that plate. No matter how much plywood floor you bolt into, it's still just plywood holding your car in place.


Just my 2cents....

I really like that. But I have a friend that set the floor of his motorhome on fire welding under it. That concerns me a little

Water and/or wet rags are your friend......Mig weld an inch or two, then move over to the next one to give the area a chance to cool....and use wet rags or shove a small sheet of aluminum between the floor and frame rail where you're going to be welding. And use water or wet rags...lol

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:
Water and/or wet rags are your friend......Mig weld an inch or two, then move over to the next one to give the area a chance to cool....and use wet rags or shove a small sheet of aluminum between the floor and frame rail where you're going to be welding. And use water or wet rags...lol

Makes sense.
So when you say you are at a cross beam, obviously you are in front or behind it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31039...tkp%3ABk9SR7Cpk9ztYA
This is a link to the D-Rings and backing plates.
I didn't route them flush, just used a holesaw and bolted them down. I don't know how routing would work in plywood and I used Advantech for my floor so I don't think routing would work.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:
Water and/or wet rags are your friend......Mig weld an inch or two, then move over to the next one to give the area a chance to cool....and use wet rags or shove a small sheet of aluminum between the floor and frame rail where you're going to be welding. And use water or wet rags...lol

Makes sense.
So when you say you are at a cross beam, obviously you are in front or behind it.

Yes, sometimes you have to give and take a little on your ideal placements....Important thing is to attach to a cross beam as much as possible...I set the rear tires in the middle of 2 beams and kinda let the front tires end up where the are. IF it's way to far from a beam I've run a 2"- 2-1/2" .060"-.120" wall sq tube from beam to beam to mount the d-ring in. Only weld the sq tube to the beams along the sides and bottom to keep heat away from the plywood floor..
With a dragster I don't even tie down the front tires. Just pull it in with the winch and leave the cable hooked snug to the digger. With the slicks strapped down the front end never moves. If this worries you get a pair of tire cradles for the front tires.

Again just my 2cents....your results may vary..

the plates are rated at 6000lbs what is the plywood rated at lol.... find a beam or create one to bolt to not the plywood . imakehp is dead on.

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
the plates are rated at 6000lbs what is the plywood rated at lol.... find a beam or create one to bolt to not the plywood . imakehp is dead on.

It’ll probably help if you’re upside-down or something, but I’ve never found it to be necessary.

It’s certainly going to be stronger, so I wouldn’t criticize anyone for doing it that way.

What about dragster lifts? How are you supporting these? Interested to see any designs.

Dragster lifts are either bolted to the walls or the floor, the later being home built units. My lift is from T&E and the best one is from Goldrush. Neither are cheap if you can get one. for those in the market for a lift, I may be selling mine before next season.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Dragster lifts are either bolted to the walls or the floor, the later being home built units. My lift is from T&E and the best one is from Goldrush. Neither are cheap if you can get one. for those in the market for a lift, I may be selling mine before next season.

Why are you selling? Getting goldrush or ....? I'm surprised at the attachment to the wall with the size hardware of your T and E. Obviously they have proven them out and they don't fail. It makes for a very versatile system for sure.

No reason to sell except that I like the Gold Rush lift better. I can also get another pair of vertical channels from T&E to accomplish the same that the GR does or just leave what ain’t broken alone.