its time to install one of these on my bracket car,and I am worried about reliability and my consistancy, anybody have experience with them,,,,,pro,s ,,,con,s any input would be great ,Thanks

a band aid fix and known to cause issues. Fix the root cause.

Consider installing a MSD 7730 Grid controller to your present MSD ignition system. This will allow you to control many functions (start retard, launch retards, shifting on rpm by 1 rpm increments, shifting by time, data acquisition and more) in the ignition with laptop programming. Unlike the many stand-alone analog MSD modules, Grid contains all of these and so much more. This includes continued support in software and firmware updates from MSD.

Throw that started saver away, as far away as you can! As was stated, fix the real issue.

Problem with pulling a lot of timing using a box and distributor is the rotor becomes out of phase to the point the spark can jump to the next closest terminal in the cap. I've been through this with broken starters and flywheels. MSD has instructions on rotor phasing to compensate but you need an adjustable rotor such as their Cap-Adapt.

Right now I pull 10 deg on start, have the rotor phased correctly and Powermaster starter. I believe some of my problem was a disconnect switch that was either faulty or not enough capacity. I changed to a HD unit from Summit and it pins noticeably faster. Still, with all that, I have resorted to spinning the motor before hitting the ignition on.

I should note that I run E85 and I have read that it and alcohol can be trickier to light off.

Underdog,

Some will disagree but a 16 volt system will fix your issues. No, I didn't really have an issue with my 12 volt stuff but I found a super deal on a new 16 volt alternator so I took the plunge. I would never go back!

Start retard is great for carb fires. Ed is right its a band aid at best..

thanks for all the replies,i cant through it away lol I haven't bought it yet and now am not going to, this feedback is going as I thought it would

the root cause of starter kickback is one of or all the following...

1. starter either poorly built or has a motor that is undersized.

2. battery, not enough cranking amps or weak.

3. loss of voltage due to length and size of power cable.

4. pulling out too much timing while starting.

I have used one successfully for 15 years. For most of that time did not really need it but my 489 does with my battery starter combination.
There is one trick I learned. While it may seem crazy it seems like it takes the starter saver a couple of seconds to retard after the power is turned on.
So I hit the ignition switch, count 2 and then hit the start switch. If I go directly from one switch to another it seems the retard does not get a chance to work.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
the root cause of starter kickback is one of or all the following...

1. starter either poorly built or has a motor that is undersized.

2. battery, not enough cranking amps or weak.

3. loss of voltage due to length and size of power cable.

4. pulling out too much timing while starting.

^^^^ Agreed with all the above.

The easiest way to check if you have enough voltage at the starter while cranking is to measure it. Place your meter lead on the main feed positive post on the starter and ground the other lead. Crank the engine with the ignition OFF. A 12 volt system that is wired properly with a good battery will measure 10.5 volts while cranking at the starter. If you measure less do a voltage drop test to confirm the disconnect and positive cable lead from the battery to disconnect is good.

mark , I'm going to double check the v drop at the starter I runnin a 1100 cca batt 1 yr old tests fine and a powermaster starter basically new so I don't think they are the problem, timing is 34 locked,,,thanks for the info

problem 1, powermaster starts are junk

whose battery and model?

I have the high torque Powermaster starter and it is better than my Tilton Super Starter which is now my spare starter. When I went to the 139 tooth flexplate I bought the Powermaster starter. Worked so much better I changed over the Tilton for it to. The powermaster still starts noticeable faster and better than the Tilton.

must be true, I read it on an internet forum.

I have always just got engine spinning over then hit ignition once it was cranking.

We have tried two MSD starter savers. Both failed within months. Get a good starter, flex plate, and correct wiring.

For those that presently use analog ignition, prior to spending money for add on boxes to control 2 step, 3 step, ignition timing, shifting, shift lights, timer outputs or other functions consider this. The cost of a MSD 7730 attached to your present analog or even digital ignition can offer you the ability to try something different if desired for much less money and more effectively.

Cant believe I'll say this but ED is spot on. These starters now days take a lot of amps to crank. Go to the Meziere web site and there is a great wiring set up that use on all their starters and it should fix your problem.