DRR Elite
| buy new springs for the cam you will be running, then you will know. |
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DRR Sportsman
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| You should be able to have your machinist pull a couple and test them. If they were assembled from ProComp and not a local, I wouldn't trust 'em regardless of the readings. Hate to agree with Ed, but why take a chance? Buy quality springs with the pressures and rate recommended by the cam manufacturers. Valvetrain will be worth a lot more than the head castings, but who's counting?
Organized people are just too lazy to look for their $h!t.
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| Posts: 499 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: November 09, 2002 |  
IP
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DRR Pro
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| quote: Originally posted by JCDRAGS: Recently bought a set of Pro Comp 3002 aluminum heads the guy i got them from could not tell me what valve spring was on them ,they either come with a hydraulic roller valve spring or a flat tappet valve sprig how can i tell what is on them ,
It's a crap shoot. I wouldn't do anything until the heads are inspected and checked for installed height, and correct retainers / keepers, etc. Hydraulic roller and solid flat tappet are going to be very similar in spring requirement. Race only solid flat tappet with stainless valves I like to keep seat pressure 130-135-ish and over the nose pressure under 400, about 350-370-ish, considering my use is 98% under 6600 rpm's.
"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375
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