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Originally posted by jenavet:
GREG and FTI are awesome and extremely knowlegable.

^^^^^^^^^^^ THis guy is a nut hugger ^^^^^^^^^

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THis guy is a nut hugger ^

trust me if greg from FTI was here right now I would buy him dinner and gently hug his nuts all night.he has helped me out numerous times.he deserves it

This took an unexpected turn!

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Originally posted by davidsracing:
This took an unexpected turn!

I think Mikey is bored. Winter dragged-on forever. No block to build the engine with. His chinese rig ain't going nowhere either. And to top it off, his Asian crew girls all got deported by Trump so Mikey is left all alone..........

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his Asian crew girls all got deported by Trump so Mikey is left all alone..........

I just talked to trump and he said my situation is different and gave the girls immunity,so we good!!

Rusty, when you replied about the engagement we’re you referring to the fwd end where it engages the converter? That end of the shaft is good but you are right about the shaft having an engagement issue. It moved fwd and the aft end is what became disengaged and has small burrs on the splines. You and Greg called this one.
David

Mine did the same thing a couple years ago after I had to install a new input shaft after replacing the broke old one. my convertor was a hughes and when I spoke to Greg he pretty much knew exactly what happened and was absolutely correct! I sent him the convertor which he fixed so the shafts could not slide forward anymore. it is a shaft issue where my old one had a slight shoulder and most of the new ones do not. FTI is the only place I buy from due to the customer support!

yes i think the problem lies inside the convertor vs the length of the shaft,had a friend in dallas with same issue.at that time it was a first for me.so hasnt happened to me yet

I have a new ATI Superglide 2, I am planning on running my used Hughes convertor. How do I check to make sure this won't be a problem?

Thanks

the best answer i have is to call hughes and talk to kevin.he is very aware of the issue.not all of there convertors have the issue as i understand it.

if the shaft is cut in a manor that the splines will stop it from going to deep in the converotor may work also

I had this same issue with my trans last year. Went thru the trans, took it to Ennis for testing, worked great, loaded, drove to Topeka, nothing. Greg turned me on to a issue with the Hughes converter and different vendor input shaft. I had run this GM95 for years with the same input shaft with no issues. I guess that the sprag splines had worn enough to where the input was sliding out of the planets. The tolerances were good according to Kevin @ Hughes, so what I ended up doing was changing the input shaft to one that had the splines cut almost to the end of the large O.D. on the converter end. My other shaft had the splines cut all the way thru the large O.D. of the shaft allowing it to slip forward (I tow with the car backed in the trailer).

Rusty and I were talking about this the other day, I sent him pictures of the input shaft and the part number of the one that will fix your problem. This happened a couple of times before we (Greg) figured it out. I had the trans in and torn apart at least 3 times. Take it apart, couldn't find anything wrong, put it back together, go test, everything worked great. Back the car in the trailer, tow to the next divisional, nothing. Several people went thru the trans with me and NOBODY could find anything wrong. Even sent the convertor to Hughes and they found no problems.

Mike B.

Someone mentioned welding a spacer or something in the converter.
I think that was part of the many conversations we had after your ordeal.

It still is just a nightmare for this to happen after all the perfecting that has been done over the years to the powerglide.
To have various parts that don't match various mfgs parts just seems crazy to me.

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Originally posted by MikeB4963:
It still is just a nightmare for this to happen after all the perfecting that has been done over the years to the powerglide.
To have various parts that don't match various mfgs parts just seems crazy to me.

Ask an engine builder about various pistons hitting cylinder heads, valve springs not sitting in pockets properly, and so on. Or why does brand A B or C yoke fit differently on the same output shaft? The aftermarket for high performance doesn't operate on the same levels of standards like an OEM. An automatic transmission has a lot of moving parts, and the manufacturers do our best to try to not make it difficult for the racer. But when you are dealing with 20 or so companies in our small industry (transmissions/converters) with multiple machine shops or manufacturing sources, you are going to run into some incompatibilities from time to time.

Interesting info because I back my car into the trailer also. I was wandering if that had anything to do with it. Converter is on its way back to manufacturer to be checked /modified so hopefully I'm on my way to a fix.

I worked in the aircraft industry since 1977. We saw this all the time. One vendor would make his part on the large side of the tolerance and the other vendor would machine his parts on the small side of the tolerance. When you tried to assemble, they would not fit. They were both within acceptable tolerance, but just wouldn't mesh up. That's why when I sent my converter in to be checked everything was fine (splines still within acceptable tolerance) and my input shaft looked just as good as the day I put it in new. But you take/wear .005" off the input and take two or three thou off of the mating spines and now you have a lot of play. Like I said, I ran this converter and input for several years in the old car (pulled it in forward), built the new car and started backing it in. Shaft slides out on the road trip and now you have nothing. They said I could "weld" a bead in the converter to keep the shaft in place or peen the shaft splines to keep it from moving to far forward. I said 'hell no' send me the shaft with that has the splines machined with a shoulder. That was a year ago, it's the only change I made, and I have been racing all over the place since then with no issues. Hope you get yours fixed before you pull it apart as many times as I did.

I'm having a similar issue with mine. I'll make two or three runs and then all of a sudden no forwardor reverse. You can feel the "bump" when the reverse clutch pack engages when you hit the trans brake, but car won't move. Put the car away, check it a few days later and it works fine. Had it apart three times now and can't find anything to indicate an issue. Valve body flat and tight, seals and such good..... could mine be doing the same thing?

yes