Well, it's been a bit, but I'm getting closer! Engine is together and in the car. Few things left to tidy up, finish trans refresh, and I'll be ready to rock! Running 9/16" intake pushrods and 5/8" exhaust, with room to spare! Biggest issue now is where to mount the coils. I have brackets that I can mount them to the back of the engine on the motor plate, but they will only be held on with two 1/4-20 bolts per mount. Four coils and a mount is kinda heavy. The only other place to mount them is on the valve covers, and I'd have to drill holes for the mounting screws....Dont' really want to but not a lot of options due to space issues. If I mount them in the back I lose my spot to mount my primer pump..... Anyway, here's some shots of my beast.

quote:

Originally posted by Alaskaracer:
Biggest issue now is where to mount the coils. The only other place to mount them is on the valve covers, and I'd have to drill holes for the mounting screws....Dont' really want to but not a lot of options due to space issues. If I mount them in the back I lose my spot to mount my primer pump.....

Sounds like you want to mount the coils to the valve cover(s), but don't want to drill holes in the valve cover. Why not weld standoffs on the valve cover to mount the coils or coil bracket.

2BKING

I like the RCD gear drive. That is what I am going to use on my 565 blower motor.

RCD gear drive is cats meow. It gives you the ability to degree cam in 1 degree increments. The Milodon is similar quality but only gives 2 degree adjustments. I've run both, they are both awesome. I'll never run a belt or chain on any race motors again.

This is one NICE combo pictured.

What heads?
What cubic inch?
What induction?
Gas/alchol?

Very nice!

I have ran Jesel belts and CV products which I actually like better than the Jesel now.

Still next motor will probably run the RCD gear drive. Definitely what I am going to run on the blower motor.

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
RCD gear drive is cats meow. It gives you the ability to degree cam in 1 degree increments. The Milodon is similar quality but only gives 2 degree adjustments. I've run both, they are both awesome. I'll never run a belt or chain on any race motors again. Same goes of ATI dampers....won't ever see one on any of my stuff ever again either.....

This is one NICE combo pictured.

What heads?
What cubic inch?
What induction?
Gas/alchol?

Thanks. No more belts for me ever again either. Admittedly, a belt saved my block when I broke a rod, but still won't run one again. Or aluminum rods for that matter.

Top end is a HRE sheet metal deal built for this combo with billet runners. MBE Big Nine heads with steel T&D rockers that Matt at MBE designed with T&D. Custom Bullet cam, 55mm. Induction is a KillerRon's dual terminator setup. After running mfi, never again carbs!!! Will be running alky. Made the switch on last combo and won't ever be going back to gas. And a little bit of nitrous to cap it off, just in case....Crank is a Winberg that I scored from MadCap racing engines, and rods are Molnar Power Adder Plus...VERY NICE pieces! Hoping to run at least 12's......

More pics....hoping to have the car done except for the trans this weekend...

What is that in the standard oil filter location? Is that where dry sump filters and goes into block?

I absolutely agree with you about the aluminum rods.

Like to know more about running alcohol on this combination. There have been several discussions here saying that alcohol will not work as well on large cubic inch high performance motors.

I prefer to run alcohol for several reasons.

That motor looks really nice and I hope it does what you expect it to.

for coil mounts, I run these on my door car. they can be bolted to the top frame rail and have the coils sit under your headers.

https://mavenspeed.com/collect...-ignition-coil-mount

quote:

Originally posted by Fabman:
for coil mounts, I run these on my door car. they can be bolted to the top frame rail and have the coils sit under your headers.

https://mavenspeed.com/collect...-ignition-coil-mount

I got those mounts, but have no room under the headers to mount them. I can use the brackets without the other half and bolt them to the rear motor plate though

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
What is that in the standard oil filter location? Is that where dry sump filters and goes into block?

I absolutely agree with you about the aluminum rods.

Like to know more about running alcohol on this combination. There have been several discussions here saying that alcohol will not work as well on large cubic inch high performance motors.

I prefer to run alcohol for several reasons.

That motor looks really nice and I hope it does what you expect it to.

The oil filter is a system one and it's on an adapter from moroso to provide the inlet for the dry sump.

As far as running alky on a large cubic inch engine, I once believed that as well, and have since learned that is a HUGE MYTH!!! Alky will run well on any engine as long as you have the fuel system to feed it. I picked up 2.5 tenths switching from a well tuned gas setup with dual carbs to alky injection. Camshaft grind will differ slightly, timing will change depending on what engine wants. Most just convert from gas to alky and don't do much to the engine, so performance isn't always optimal.....when it's built specifically for the fuel, it's a different story....lots of factors though....but while some will disagree, there is more power potential in alky than in gas. Yes, gas has higher btu content per pound.....BUT.....at correct ratios in the engine, alky actually wins the btu battle, and has the added advantage of cooling......I'm not saying it's the best for every combo, it certainly isn't. But there's more misinformation out there than good info, so you gotta dig and talk to people that know.....I'm still learning though....

Not knowing what the DA is in Alaska, what kind of ET and MPH are you hoping for?

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Not knowing what the DA is in Alaska, what kind of ET and MPH are you hoping for?

Honestly, I don't know. Should run well into the sixes on motor though. Air here is usually very good, right now the DA is 29.27 barometer, 283.8 ft. 29.8 grains of water. First race is this weekend, tomorrow, but not for the class I'm running in. That's on Memorial Day. But the air is usually pretty good, it's track prep that is the issue.....

Any reason for the fluid damper vs. an ATI? I ran one of those many years ago on a small block and steered clear of them on high HP applications.

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
Any reason for the fluid damper vs. an ATI? I ran one of those many years ago on a small block and steered clear of them on high HP applications.

I've ran Fluidamprs for years with zero issue on both street and race engines. Just like alky, TONS OF MISINFORMATION out there on them. They are excellent dampers and work well in any application. As to why not an ATI? Well, let me just say this. When I broke the rod on my last build, it took me a while before I tore it down and looked at it...almost sold everything because I was so frustrated about it...but then I got going on it and looked at things VERY CAREFULLY. On the bottom end, there was signs of what would be called detonation on the bearings as well as some other issues I'd been having that could be attributed to harmonics. Part of it was also valve train related. Running an ATI on old combo with a belt drive. Well, there were NO SIGNS of detonation on the pistons, chambers, or plugs which means something else wasn't happy....Now, keep in mind, I had maybe 100 total passes on this engine....not even what most would call a full season of racing. When I found that, I called ATI and explained what I had found. I wanted their input since I ran their product. First thing they said is no way, not their stuff. Then they told me I should have rebuilt the damper already. Didn't give a reason, just said it should have been rebuilt. They asked which one I had and I told them....Next thing they said is I had the wrong damper. They got pretty testy with me when I told them that was the one THEY recommended! So after that call, I made the choice that I'd never run one again, I don't care who says they are the "best", which I don't agree with. Even the graph they have on their website is rigged in their favor....which most overlook that....But, that being said, I've ran Fludampr, TCI Rattler, and ATI on my engines over the years. ATI is the only one that I've ran where there was issues with bearing wear....so never again......

I'm absolutely with you on the whole methanol vs gasoline deal. I've been through the ringer with that one. You summarized in a few posts in this topic what I've been saying on here for quite a few years about methanol. The methanol nay sayers are like politicians, the more/louder you say it the more likely its to be accepted as truth. And when the converse (swap back to gas) is so easy, the data points start to stack up due to folks running out of patience with the methanol combo and going back to gas. Just like you build a combo for gas you should build/optimize a combo for methanol (converters, compression, and cam seem to be most important).

I've had good luck with ATI and they have several options that i've become a fan of, especially their blower BBC balancer with the crank trigger shell. Hemi pattern bolt circle, blower pulley register, and eliminate the need for a crank trigger wheel. Really neat setup when you get to bolt the blower pulley direct to the harmonic balancer.

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
I'm absolutely with you on the whole methanol vs gasoline deal. I've been through the ringer with that one. You summarized in a few posts in this topic what I've been saying on here for quite a few years about methanol. The methanol nay sayers are like politicians, the more/louder you say it the more likely its to be accepted as truth. And when the converse (swap back to gas) is so easy, the data points start to stack up due to folks running out of patience with the methanol combo and going back to gas. Just like you build a combo for gas you should build/optimize a combo for methanol (converters, compression, and cam seem to be most important).

I've had good luck with ATI and they have several options that i've become a fan of, especially their blower BBC balancer with the crank trigger shell. Hemi pattern bolt circle, blower pulley register, and eliminate the need for a crank trigger wheel. Really neat setup when you get to bolt the blower pulley direct to the harmonic balancer.

I know they make good stuff, but after my fiasco, I'm done with them. Instead of offering to figure my issues out, all they could do was point the finger and tell me it's not them...I took my damper apart and the o-rings are not in good shape....so yeah, it needed to be rebuilt, but when? How many passes? They say yearly but what if I don't make enough passes in a year to equal a full season of racing? I had dead time between then as well..it was also moving on the crank, and did have proper press fit...lots of micro welding taking place....

Either way, problem is solved.

Yeah, the more I research methanol the more I learn how much bs is out there. Just like methanol and nitrous. First big myth is "room for the fuel"....it takes less than 1/4 teaspoon of methanol to make 2000 hp.....that takes up almost no space....the issue with nitrous and methanol is vaporizing the fuel...gets to be really hard above certain power levels due to the temp of the nitrous and cooling effect of methanol....

FWIW I don't think big cubic inches and methanol like small ring stacks. My 615 was 1mm/1mm/3mm with heavy duty spanner. Anytime it has enough fuel to make it run, I lose vacuum going down track. Start at 12", end run at 5" or less. Not all that big of a deal, but tells me its getting lots of blow by. Moroso 4 vane spinning at 65% of crank speed, 615CI, wiseco quick 8 piston. I don't see that problem in conventional motors with a different ring stack 0.043/1/16/3/16 seems to work best in the conventional headed motors i've done. Its hard to find a shelf piston these days with anything other than 1/1/3mm ring packages.

What ring package is in the build referenced here?

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
What ring package is in the build referenced here?

I'm running the same ring pack I had before with the exception of the oil rings. It's a .043, .043, 3mm. No issues before with vacuum or anything so sticking with it...low tension oil rings as well....