in an oven to get main bearing clearances, at operating temp?

What did you find?

I have one on deck.

No but it did take a while for me to find cam bearings that fit od and id. Never did really.

There will be everything I find in this thread, stay tuned!!

This is going in a Corvette Z06 road raced at Daytona. The better the clearances at operating temp, the longer the car can be hammer down, in the race.

The manual I'm gonna referencing just got here from Barnes & Noble.

I just noticed the notification from Barnes & Noble, it's in my mailbox.

Quick look through this manual, it looks excellent.

Barnes & Noble did a great job too, day early packaged like a Boss boxed it.

It's gonna see the oven this week, so I can get rolling on it.

T I T S

#2 cap calls for an undersize bearing, Clevite makes a 9 but not an 11.

This will have King and Clevite main bearings to get clearances.

King part# MB5013XP- 11

Someone asked about locking the head on this engine stand.

After I started pulling on these main cap bolts, I found it needed locked.

Dug a short Metric 10 out of the grey box, worked perfect. The hole and metric 10 threads came factory, but I didn't see a bolt in the box the stand came in.

Mike is this going to be a bracket motor? Exp. 550 to 650 hp. I have 50 years in small block and big block Chev. but 0 years and 0 experience with LS. Great that you are doing this. Who knows you might just spark my interest to build one. Please keep this going. Would love to see a carbureted and a conventional type ignition system but that may not work for your plans.

quote:

Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
Mike is this going to be a bracket motor? Exp. 550 to 650 hp. I have 50 years in small block and big block Chev. but 0 years and 0 experience with LS. Great that you are doing this. Who knows you might just spark my interest to build one. Please keep this going. Would love to see a carbureted and a conventional type ignition system but that may not work for your plans.

This is actually going in a CO6 corvette raced at Daytona and Sebring.

If you do a LS, the manual I got from Barnes and Noble I posted a photo of, has every specification on these engines. Good reference.

I'll be doing a bunch of these this year looks like.

It is gonna be run on a dyno with a carb.

quote:

Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
Mike is this going to be a bracket motor? Exp. 550 to 650 hp. I have 50 years in small block and big block Chev. but 0 years and 0 experience with LS. Great that you are doing this. Who knows you might just spark my interest to build one. Please keep this going. Would love to see a carbureted and a conventional type ignition system but that may not work for your plans.

Summit racing has most of the torque specs on their website for free.

It was a little intimidating for me. I tore one down awhile back and all the bolts looked so dainty it really turned me off. Had somebody assemble my first Ls race motor. Since then, in the last 2 years, I’ve partially or completely rebuilt about a dozen and it’s just as easy for me now as the big blocks I’ve been doing for 20 years.

The worst part for me is torquing the heads and measuring lifter preload. It’s really hard to keep the head washers from spinning on almost every one I’ve done. I’ve scuffed and even grooved and still always have a handful that want to spin.

quote:

Originally posted by BJs Wild Ride:

quote:

Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
Mike is this going to be a bracket motor? Exp. 550 to 650 hp. I have 50 years in small block and big block Chev. but 0 years and 0 experience with LS. Great that you are doing this. Who knows you might just spark my interest to build one. Please keep this going. Would love to see a carbureted and a conventional type ignition system but that may not work for your plans.

Summit racing has most of the torque specs on their website for free.

It was a little intimidating for me. I tore one down awhile back and all the bolts looked so dainty it really turned me off. Had somebody assemble my first Ls race motor. Since then, in the last 2 years, I’ve partially or completely rebuilt about a dozen and it’s just as easy for me now as the big blocks I’ve been doing for 20 years.

The worst part for me is torquing the heads and measuring lifter preload. It’s really hard to keep the head washers from spinning on almost every one I’ve done. I’ve scuffed and even grooved and still always have a handful that want to spin.

I can dig it.

This is gonna have a couple King uppers to get the clearances T I T S. Clevite doesn't manufacture an 11 LS bearing.

They're all .001 on the low side at room temp. I'll put it in a oven next week for operating temp clearances.

I'm suspecting just under .002 at operating, the goal. We'll see.

I see some issues with what your doing....

#1 You really should have a .0001 gauge, not a .001 +/- .0005 that can give you a rough idea. Every picture I have seen shows a standard thousandth dial bore guage.

#2 Sticking the block in an oven is arguably going to give you incomple data. At worse it will give you false data, the heat gradient across the ocean will uniform and not remotely close to a running engine. Furthermore, unless you know the cranks operating temperature and account for that growth you'll only be getting half the picture.

3# Mixing half shells is fine, mixing half shell from different manufacturers is mechanical roulette. You generally have no idea how much crush, bearing asymmetry and materials can affect the bearing

4# If you are dead set on everything you should really have the heads bolted on. The head bolts on some blocks practically touch the main cap block studs.

GM manufactures these blocks with .0007 to .0021 main bearing clearance. You can't shake a stick on the internet without finding a stock bottom end makin north of 800 reliably. Coming up with some homemade low fidelity test is as likely to give you bad data as it is good.

Don't see the need to reinvent the wheel with half baked methods but thats just me.

retard rietow has just been schooled!

apparently also there's no shortage of the naïve, clueless and broke dycks around mikey's trailer park.

quote:

Originally posted by NortonRacing:
I see some issues with what your doing....

#1 You really should have a .0001 gauge, not a .001 +/- .0005 that can give you a rough idea. Every picture I have seen shows a standard thousandth dial bore guage.

#2 GM manufactures these blocks with .0007 to .0021 main bearing clearance. You can't shake a stick on the internet without finding a stock bottom end makin north of 800 reliably. Coming up with some homemade low fidelity test is as likely to give you bad data as it is good.

Know nothing, do nothing breast milk Ed's in-experienced ear hasn't the experience to hear these two claims as contradictions of one another.

Nor the fact the rest of the claims contradict the fact of compromises, in building any engine.

You're not looking for an exact main bearing clearance at operating temp, because it's impossible, unless you've figured out a way to reinvent the wheel known as engine building.

Relax sugar britches, this ain't my first rodeo.

When you put an aluminum block in an oven, your'e looking at its tendency, trend, course of change.

Then according to your level of experience, you'll determine acceptable compromises in clearances.

Unfortunately for breast milk Ed, he has no experience, only a check book.