ATI makes both 7" and 8" SuperDampers for internal balanced big Chevy but MSD only makes a flying magnet wheel for the 8" model. Will the wheel bolt to the 7" SuperDamper I have and just hang out past the edge or will I have to buy a new 8" SuperDamper?

I believe the ATI dampers have the same register size and bolt pattern as the MSD wheel. So, yes the MSD wheel will stick out about an extra 1/2" on each side of the 7" damper....but the crank trigger pick-up bracket bolts on the front of the block to work with an 8" wheel.....

p.s. I'm impressed that you're calling them dampers....people usually incorrectly call them dampners..

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Originally posted by imakehp:


p.s. I'm impressed that you're calling them dampers....people usually incorrectly call them dampners..

Dave, don't they balance the harmonics? LOL

When our ATI damper need to be worked on, we had them update it for the integrated MSD crank trigger sensors!

Much cleaner and simpler!

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:


p.s. I'm impressed that you're calling them dampers....people usually incorrectly call them dampners..

Dave, don't they balance the harmonics? LOL

No..... A crankshaft damper counters the torsional and resonance vibrations from the crankshaft. Thats why its VERY important to be as tight a press fit onto the crank snout as possible/reasonable. It works best when it in effect becomes part of the crankshaft

This message has been edited. Last edited by: imakehp,

Now I'll open the second can of worms...I have more than one engine in the works, second one won't be using a crank trigger, it's also internal balanced so I can use the 7" on it. At what point do you consider the 8" damper over the 7"??? I like the idea of the crank trigger being the same size as the damper. 565 cubic inch. I've read that the larger damper is a little better at dissipating harmonics and of course, the 7" is a bit lighter...decisions, decisions...

Can of Worms.

Most of blower guys do not use Damper at all. Many of the Circle track guys do not run one. I run an ATI but I do wonder just how much it is doing?

In related news is the cam drive. Belt, chain or gear drive?

Some say the Belt drive like the Jesel is better but you can see it has slack and flexing running. Chain has slack. Gear drives seem to have a lot less slack but they say they do not dampen valve train shock. Yet most of Sprint cars run them and those guys are getting good power and durability out of 410 Cu. In. I have been running belt drives for more than 10 years but on my latest build I am going to go with gear drive. It is a tall deck Aluminum SB2 SBC with 463 Cu. In.

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:


p.s. I'm impressed that you're calling them dampers....people usually incorrectly call them dampners..

Dave, don't they balance the harmonics? LOL

No..... A crankshaft damper counters the torsional and resonance vibrations from the crankshaft. Thats why its VERY important to be as tight a press fit onto the crank snout as possible/reasonable. It works best when it in effect becomes part of the crankshaft

Sorry, I thought the sarcasm of the comment would be obvious.

Simplify your life if you don't already have a balancer, order it from ATI with crank trigger magnets already installed which comes with an anodized aluminum cover. Best thing you'll ever do. I have a couple crank trigger wheels hanging around that i have no use for, once I found this option i'll never go back to a crank trigger wheel.

As for the question of gear drive vs. belt....
Gear drive for the "W", fixed idler, Milodon or RCD if you want the cats meow. I've run chains and jesel belt. The RCD was really nice (billet and 1 degree cam timing adjustments) and the Milodon is functional, high quality, and same design as RCD but only allows (2 degree cam timing adjustments).

Pros, drive fuel pump, distributor, and anything else you can find an adapter for off the cam, zero chain/belt slack, zero wear, reliable, 1 time purchase, cheap bearing replacements at rebuild time, never replace another belt after "100" runs.

Cons, difficult to degree the cam in (there is no zero reference mark, read the instructions and take your time), both RCD and Milodon bottom gears are a tad thicker than any other bottom sprocket (chain or belt). You'll have to machine about 0.100" off the back of the balancer neck to ensure its flush with the crank. If you don't the balancer will not be flush with the end of the crank when fully installed and pulled up against the #1 main register of the crank. Must run remote water pump if you choose to run fuel pump off the cam.

As far as balancer vs. a hub, I've always run a balancer with blowers or without blowers on my Big Block Chevys. I don't see how a hub could ever be a good idea.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Triple Nickel,

Thanks for that advice! Is it possible to buy an MSD crank trigger without the magnet wheel? I haven't found any advertised. But...there are a lot of just the "flying magnet" wheel like you have, you might consider sleaszebay or Racing Junk, might was well turn something you don't use into cash.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Busted Knuckles,

You'd have to check MSD part numbers from their website, from there summit or jegs with the appropriate part numbers for the individual parts (pick up, J shaped bracket, and 90 degree sensor mount bracket). Those are the 3 parts you'd need if I'm thinking about it correctly. It may easily total up to more or equal to a complete kit, just check pricing to make sure.

I have a ton of recorded engine builds and managed to find the MSD magnet wheel on both the 7" and 8" dampers. Great fit on the 8" but doesn't look bad on the 7", ony 1/2" overhang all the way around. MSD makes a 7" magnet wheel for small blocks, I'm curious if there's enough threads on the pickup to get it closer. Might just have to make a phone call or two. Thanks everybody for their replies and help.

Tripple nickel.

I disagree about degreeing cam with gear drive.Very easy IMO and you can degree to a 1*.Just bring cam to .050 on Intake and set crank to number you want. set gear on and if holes are wrong keep chacnging gear till they line up and there you go.Your cam is in at what ever degree you want your .050 lift. Well at least that how all of the pones I have worked with work.

Personaly I will not be ruinning anyting else on race engine.

As for crank trigger I made mine on mill and lathe. Finding it hard to see a problem with using wheel. Do not have damper or balancer and have never had one on a engine since 1990,Hub is super light and cranks are balanced with same one as on engine,noit that any difference in the hubs.

quote:

Originally posted by Busted Knuckles:
I have a ton of recorded engine builds and managed to find the MSD magnet wheel on both the 7" and 8" dampers. Great fit on the 8" but doesn't look bad on the 7", ony 1/2" overhang all the way around. MSD makes a 7" magnet wheel for small blocks, I'm curious if there's enough threads on the pickup to get it closer. Might just have to make a phone call or two. Thanks everybody for their replies and help.

I have 3/8” of unused threads behind the lock nut on my pickup with an 8” wheel and the MSD mounting bracket. If you moved the nut to the wheel side of the bracket, you’d have plenty of adjustment to get it close to a 7” wheel.

you can get the dampner with the magnet ring built in so no need for the msd wheel... this is what i have been doing for years