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DRR Pro |
Read the OP, he has 2 sets of good heads to make the required power to run mid 11's. I'm sure he doesn't give a shyt if an LS will smoke the SBC. It's for his grandson who's probably starting out. Plus, it's a bracket set-up; what does it matter, as long as it meets their original goals. 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3000 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
A good 355 11.5 520 hyd roller, holley manifold , world SR torquer heads and a 750 ran 11.70 @113 in a 69 Camaro- 3800 stall 3.73 and a turbo 350. I’d be shocked if it made 375. It did weigh 3470 with 6pt moly cage. Drove it to work and school for years. California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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DRR Trophy |
If you read the rest of my post you will see that despite having those parts he will spend more on a crank, rods, pistons, cam machine work etc to put it together than a 6.0 costs to buy in a ready condition. Bottomline he will be better off price and reliability wise going to an LS now, with all of the benefits of that right off the bat. So I don't give a shot what parts he has in that regard, unless he has a complete 350 already rebuilt its probably going to be cheaper to get a $1000 6.0 and put $500 into, make more power cheaper and be more reliable than a stock type 350 making 500HP. | |||
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DRR Pro |
I'm sorry I came off a little harsh, hope you accept my apology! When speaking of doing something with a grandson, I'm sure it's more of building a motor together. While buying a 6.0 LS is a great cheap foundation, the grandson is missing out on the total experience. That's just me looking from the outside in. 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3000 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
My question iswhere are you getting 6.0 for grans. We use to be bale to find those now days all we find is 2k plus with 120k miles. No matter what he uses I hope OP is making the kid do almost all the work and learn what makes it work at the track. I have had two kids want to build first race car that started out full bore and then after finding out there is real work involved say nope I can just buy a car and race it lot easier. I didn't mind helping them learn to build a car, but I wouldn't do the work and let them just jump in and go racing. America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I was honestly wondering the same thing.. IF you have a reliable supplier with ready to run 6.0LS motors, please share so I can go buy like 5! Nick Craig 1971 Camaro Split Bumper 376ci LS3 | |||
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DRR Pro |
Yeah, I think everybody else missed that. Mid-11's in the 1/4 is mid-7's in the 1/8. We got folks talking about low to mid-6's here... Mike | |||
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DRR Pro |
As far as LS motors and how "cheap" they are, nobody ever speaks to the new oil pan, new brackets, new mounts, new intake, carb & ignition you need if you're not running the factory computer, etc, etc. Putting an LS into an older chassis will nickel-and-dime you to death, like any engine swap. If you want to play with LS motors on the cheap buy a 98-02 F-body that comes with an LS already. JMHO Mike | |||
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DRR Pro |
Agreed on a 6.0 LS pricing. A friend just bought a 6.0LS2 with 4L80E attached that has 130k miles out of a Trailblazer SS for $4500 and the trans needed a rebuild. He put it in a 2003 Chevrolet Colorado. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Your goals should be easy to obtain. I have been 7 teens @3000lbs with a completely stock, all factory cast, flat top 350 short block with camel hump heads that were “pocket ported”. The camshaft was a solid lift “105” dirt track cam, the intake was an Edelbrock Scorpion, and a 750 carb. That was with a powerglide transmission, 8” converter, and 3.73 rear gears. If I remember correctly a 2” spacer under the carb was worth almost 2 tenths in ET. Clearly everything I listed about the engine is junk but I ran it for 6-7 years shifting @6200 before swapping it out for a 383. You did not mention a budget for the build but my advice is spend extra money on parts such as pistons & rods and camshaft. You already have some profiler heads so I would use them on a 350. I agree with the others who said stay away from the factory 400 block. Good luck David Hammons 2014 IHRA Electronics Champion Gulfport Dragway 2016, 2018 IHRA Footbrake Champion Gulfport Dragway 2018, 2019 1000' Footbrake Champion Gulfport Dragway | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
OP, You may already adhere to the following. Regardless of the Cubic inch/combo you choose align yourself with a good machine shop that can line bore and/or hone the mains, square up the block decks side to side and end to end and can hone cylinders with a torque plate. Balance the rotating assembly. Will this make it run quicker? Probably but the important thing is that it will add significant life to the engine. Straight lines and round holes are the keystone of any good engine. Dave Koehler - Koehler Injection - http://www.koehlerinjection.com Fuel Injection - Nitrous Charger - Nitrous Master Software - Balancing 99% of fuel injection problems are electric. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
The OP has never responded at all, or given the weight of this vehicle so who the hell can know what it will take to put it at any given ET? Tony Leonard | |||
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DRR Pro |
My 69 Chevelle, 3950# with me on board, went 11.50's in the 1/4 and 7.50's in the 1/8 in crappy mid-summer Georgia air, with a 10:1 496 that ran on 93 unleaded, a 3.42 gear and 2800 stall/TH400. 100% street legal. Bests were 11.37 @ 117 in the 1/4 and 7.19 @ 95 in the 1/8. RPM did not exceed 5500. If the OP is significantly lighter, uses more gear and converter, and can rev to 6000+, I see no issues going mid-11's with the parts he already has on hand, even at only 355ci. He might even do it on unleaded pump gas. Mike | |||
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