quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Oil temperature gauge is nice, oil holds the heat well especially with a diaper and not cooling at all between rounds. Nice to only have to put fuel in between rounds.

It's funny but I seem to have trouble keeping enough heat in my oil and I also run a diaper.

If your carb is anodized to include the fuel bowls, you shouldn't have to do much maintenance. I use foggit on mine to keep the throttle shafts lubed. Never drain the fuel bowls between race. Treat it just like gas. I do use a top lube

If your carb is not treated, you can definitely have issues with the methanol interacting with the aluminum and eating it away over time. In those cases it's probably a good to run the bowls dry on that.

Injected methanol BBC, 140 degrees before I put it in the water, then forget about it. Usually somewhere between 145 and 155 on the starting line depending on how hot/cold it is outside and how long/short burnouts are. My idle is fairly lean so I build temp on the return road all the way back to the trailer, rarely over 180 for the whole trip, it cools quick so double entries aren't a problem. If it becomes a problem I richen the idle mix just a tad which helps to lower the temp some on the ride back to the trailer.

quote:

Originally posted by JakeW143:
I will shut the fuel pump off let it run out of fuel and spray Foggit as it runs out of fuel if its going to sit for a week or more, that's all I do. I run Interstate fuel and I order it with lube. I also go through the carb each off season and I have been using a BBC with an alcohol carb since 2002.

I do this also, Foggit and all. I use Klotz Uplon though.

Mine will sit 4 weeks sometimes and never have drained anything, no issue with corrosion at all. Winter rolls around I drain all fuel components including lines. I will then fill the lines with gas and forget it. Carb is pulled apart and cleaned then put in a box for the winter. I put 8 oz of top lube in a drum of fuel.

I had the needles get stuck or something by running the bowls dry. Getting it hot on the trailer ramp I had shut the pump and let the bowls run dry. Following week turned the pump on and the carb overflowed. Asked others they said not to run the bowls dry and also turn the pump on and off when first out of the trailer to clear any residue from the needles.
I don't have a vacuum pump so after I get it hot and in the trailer I pull the breathers out of the valve covers to let the moisture and alcohol in the oil evaporate.

I knew someone who ran the bowls dry, then filled the bowls with gas using a squeeze bottle thru the bowl vents. He would start it and run on gas while loading on the trailer to clear the cylinders of alcohol. Seems like a lot of work but it worked for him

Steve, that is interesting. Seems like it would be running extremely fat for that short while, but I can understand the possible benefit.

Quick note for OP Markemark about Top Lube - This may not apply to all products, but while I used it, (a very well-known brand), I did notice my air bleeds would occasionally get a bit gummed-up. I could always tell, because it would be on the first fire-up of a race day, especially if the car sat for more than a week. It would be running really rich and blubbering, sometimes difficult to start. So I would take some carb cleaner or even brake cleaner and spray a quick shot on all the bleeds. Immediate fix. (And the non-chlorinated / flammable brake spray also makes an excellent starting fluid for the cold weather startups when methanol is harder to light off). I have not had to do that this year, since quitting the top lube.

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Steve, that is interesting. Seems like it would be running extremely fat for that short while, but I can understand the possible benefit.

Quick note for OP Markemark about Top Lube - This may not apply to all products, but while I used it, (a very well-known brand), I did notice my air bleeds would occasionally get a bit gummed-up. I could always tell, because it would be on the first fire-up of a race day, especially if the car sat for more than a week. It would be running really rich and blubbering, sometimes difficult to start. So I would take some carb cleaner or even brake cleaner and spray a quick shot on all the bleeds. Immediate fix. (And the non-chlorinated / flammable brake spray also makes an excellent starting fluid for the cold weather startups when methanol is harder to light off). I have not had to do that this year, since quitting the top lube.

Jim, do you run a filter?

quote:

Originally posted by FootbrakeJim: Quick note for OP Markemark about Top Lube - This may not apply to all products, but while I used it, (a very well-known brand), I did notice my air bleeds would occasionally get a bit gummed-up. I could always tell, because it would be on the first fire-up of a race day, especially if the car sat for more than a week. It would be running really rich and blubbering, sometimes difficult to start. So I would take some carb cleaner or even brake cleaner and spray a quick shot on all the bleeds. Immediate fix. (And the non-chlorinated / flammable brake spray also makes an excellent starting fluid for the cold weather startups when methanol is harder to light off). I have not had to do that this year, since quitting the top lube.

Point taken with using fuel lube and air bleeds. Squirting fluid down the bleeds if needed prior to first start after sitting for days sounds like an easy fix. If you think carb /brake cleaners burn great and aids in starting, try using some WD40. You might be surprised at the results from a product that’s a lubricant.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Oil temperature gauge is nice, oil holds the heat well especially with a diaper and not cooling at all between rounds. Nice to only have to put fuel in between rounds.

It's funny but I seem to have trouble keeping enough heat in my oil and I also run a diaper.

Mid 80's yesterday and my oil temp stayed up around my coolant temp between rounds. I'd be 180-190 back to the trailer and about 170 heading to the lanes oil stayed up there. 20w-50 VR-1 SBC
I guess some run without lube, what are the pros and cons? I've always run with lube usually the Power Products, comes with the barrel when I buy.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

Jim, do you run a filter?

I run a 14" diameter x 4 inch tall air filter, a stainless inline fuel filter between cell & pump, and even a filter on my cell breather / vent hose. (It is actually a 3/8" pleated paper fuel filter). That vent hose ends under the rear of the car, and it was shocking how many bits of gravel, asphalt & rubber would end up in the bottom of the cell before I added the filter. Strangely, did not have the problem running gas, so maybe it was the big increase in suction through that vent, due to the almost double volume of alky being used?

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
I guess some run without lube, what are the pros and cons? I've always run with lube usually the Power Products, comes with the barrel when I buy.

Only con I have had is noted in my previous post about the air bleeds. A very minor issue.
Pros - I personally think the bit of lubricant on the valve guides is probably helpful, especially with new heads or tight valve stem to guide clearance. My valves/guides have 6 seasons on them, and obviously no longer tight. Lube probably provides some upper cylinder wall help as well. If you dip a finger in your methanol, and wipe or blow it off, you notice how badly it dries out the skin, your fingertip turns white because all the natural oils are removed. Not only is alky a great solvent to strip oil off guides and bores, but that bare metal it leaves can probably lead to much easier / quicker corrosion if there is any humidity. I will be doing a full freshen of my engine this winter, and it will be interesting to see if not using top lube made a difference. Also curious to see what the carb bowls will look like, that lube may have helped protect those as well.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,

The only time I ran a fuel filter was when I tried injection. Not needed with an alcohol carb. Especially since I filter my fuel from drum to jug, then filter it again from jug to cell.

Since I get my fuel without lube, I spray the linkage and butterflies with WD-40 on occasion.

Sorry Jim I should have been more specific, although you covered it all. I was wondering about air filter.