Trailer hitch

September 13, 2018, 08:25 PM

nomad

Trailer hitch

I'm sure this topic has been discussed here before. However, the search function always kicks my a$$.

The pin hole on my '03 3500 Chevy factory hitch is now an oblong shape. What hitches have members here used for replacements on these trucks?

September 13, 2018, 09:29 PM

Eman

On my 98 I welded hardened washers on either side.

September 14, 2018, 06:11 AM

Curly1

I had my hitch get stolen one time and the receiver hole was getting elongated. The hitch had a lock on there which they easily broke.
What I did after that was to drill it and install a grade 8 bolt and nylock nut through them. Now the hitch can not move around in there opening the hole and it is harder to steal. If I remember right it was 1/2 inch bolt.

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September 14, 2018, 06:23 AM

big10pointer

I used Curtis on my yukon the problem with it was the Curtis was 2" higher than the factory one.

September 14, 2018, 06:48 AM

KWig

I came across a 9/16 Grade 8 bolt and I drilled it out to fit. Much tighter, more snug fit. I replaced the whole assembly a couple years later.

September 14, 2018, 07:19 AM

442OLDS

A few years back,I tried this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/c...C5TA2QQ/ref=mw_dp_cr

It seemed to help substantially with hole elongation.

September 14, 2018, 07:54 AM

SuperPro54

I always use Curt manufacturing

September 15, 2018, 04:28 PM

fatpack

I put a new Curt class 5 hitch on my dually a few months ago and in my opinion it's JUNK! The ball mount is as sloppy as the old class 3 Draw Tite I took off! The only difference is for the time being the pin hole is tight but that won't last long because as the mount flops around it's going to open the pin hole up! Manufacturers have loosened up the tolerances because of complaints from people that left the ballmount in and it rusted tight. So as usual, lets dumb down stuff so it's easier for the idiots! Before I installed the Curt hitch I ordered a hitch from B&W. Their rep told me their specs are 2.040 +/- .010, measured 2.085. Better than the Curt (2.115) but not worth the extra expense of $50 more. Also a close racing buddy put a new Draw Tite on his truck and I feel his is unsatisfactory also! My parents owned a RV dealership when I was younger and my primary job was setting the customers vehicles up for towing, I installed a bunch of factory hitches and fabricated quite a few too back in the '70s and I never saw anything like this trash. My plan is to find a hitch tube of the proper dimension and cut the tube out of this Curt and weld in the new tube! I'm done my rant, I'll go out and tinker with my car to calm down!

September 15, 2018, 05:07 PM

markemark

I had this same type problem but it was the ball mount that was slightly undersize. Put 4 spot welds on two sides of the ball mount and filed them down until I had a snug fit. Worked for me.

September 15, 2018, 05:08 PM

Footloose

I know a repoman that once trailered a car from GA. to NY. and when he got there the nut was missing on the ball and it was pulled way back and made a huge wallered whole slanted backwards.

I have some welded big time also I have steaked the threads with a punch.

September 15, 2018, 11:20 PM

WHOMPWHOMP

RIGID....American Made...

September 15, 2018, 11:23 PM

WHOMPWHOMP

Or Torqlift...but they high dolla...

September 16, 2018, 03:57 PM

Ole Goat

quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
On my 98 I welded hardened washers on either side.

Ditto - I have did the same thing on different tow vehicles - weld a grade 8 washer on both sides & I use a bolt with a nut instead of a pin

September 16, 2018, 04:23 PM

Eman

quote:
Originally posted by Ole Goat:
quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
On my 98 I welded hardened washers on either side.

Ditto - I have did the same thing on different tow vehicles - weld a grade 8 washer on both sides & I use a bolt with a nut instead of a pin

The problem with the hardened washers is that they will wear out the Chinese pins, actually cut a groove all of the way around them.

September 16, 2018, 05:17 PM

sr4440

quote:
Originally posted by fatpack:
I put a new Curt class 5 hitch on my dually a few months ago and in my opinion it's JUNK! The ball mount is as sloppy as the old class 3 Draw Tite I took off! The only difference is for the time being the pin hole is tight but that won't last long because as the mount flops around it's going to open the pin hole up! Manufacturers have loosened up the tolerances because of complaints from people that left the ballmount in and it rusted tight. So as usual, lets dumb down stuff so it's easier for the idiots! Before I installed the Curt hitch I ordered a hitch from B&W. Their rep told me their specs are 2.040 +/- .010, measured 2.085. Better than the Curt (2.115) but not worth the extra expense of $50 more. Also a close racing buddy put a new Draw Tite on his truck and I feel his is unsatisfactory also! My parents owned a RV dealership when I was younger and my primary job was setting the customers vehicles up for towing, I installed a bunch of factory hitches and fabricated quite a few too back in the '70s and I never saw anything like this trash. My plan is to find a hitch tube of the proper dimension and cut the tube out of this Curt and weld in the new tube! I'm done my rant, I'll go out and tinker with my car to calm down!

https://www.speedymetals.com/p...re-steel-tubing.aspx