Ordered new trailer.Unfinished inside.Going to have to wire for 110. Insulate and cover walls and ceiling. Got deal on painted aluminum for covering at 18 bucks a sheet. Got lots more to get.

Looking for supplier on cpl thing. One need some good 4' led's and thought easy to find.
Looking for some electrical boxes for receptacles for sue with schedule 40 conduit that are thin like 1 to 1 1/2" and some weather proof boxes for exterior outlets. Also I have seen some led bulbs in the exterior work lights that had the older bulbs in them.

I may find some with more internet searching,but seems what I punch in never leads me where item I want is.

Also open to suggestions on what you think your trailer should have or would have done different.

Wire the interior before you skin it, Marine wire. They make 12/2, 12/3, 14/2, 14/3, It has a nice thick white covering so abrasion will never happen. Thin RV boxes for outlets and switches. Wire it with a traveler so you can turn on the interior lights from back or front. Overhead lights just inside the back door for light at night on the ramp area. I have 4 40 watt leds. Plugs inside the back door. A/C prewire #12/3 speaker wire for the inside.

https://www.wholesalemarine.co...fyqCzoffKfriQ9XnJ7T9

Not sure how thick marine cover is.House 12-2 has pretty tough cover plus running 4o conduit I can always pull another wire if need after covered and with junction box at each connection I can make changes easy. Well that plan anyway.

I have two 3way switch deals just for 12v and one is at back. Have had too many roadside things to deal with before.Also have a 12v drop light going inside generator door for same reason. Conduit probably over kill,but I am already there might as well do it as right as I can.

Do have 2 receptacle at back door and two exterior. Got to find some rv boxes that will work with conduit.Plenty metal just no plastic and metal box in metal wall just seems bad idea IMO..

Also prewiring for stereo power and speakers. Trying to cover any and all future addition,but I know me thats just not possible.LOL

Thanks anf keep suggestions coming or hell just tell me I am crazy for doing or not doing something. Bet a bunch take me up on that one.

Glad you got a trailer coming !
You can use regular Romex, if you ensure it won’t get chafed, and short out. If it makes you more comfortable, you can get mc cable, with aluminum sleeving for interior power. Use the right connectors for it, or you will have trouble later.
You can run all your electrical wiring along upper area, in corner of ceiling/wall, to drop down interior walls, and after getting everything in place, take some of the aluminum and have some pieces sheared to form corner( at a 45 degree angle) along that to cover. Run your speaker wiring and 12 volt lighting, along opposite side of trailer, of any 120 volt wiring.
60a(minimum) Breaker panel inside one of the front cabinets or in the front corner, grounded to frame of trailer, is very important. 14 ga. Wire is good to 15 amps, and 12 ga., for 20 amp. Lots of people don’t know that, more than you’d realize.
Insulated a Adell clamps are best, but zip ties will hold all your wiring along ceiling framing- use lots of them, as they break from time to time, and roof panels moving in wind, going down road.
You can find shallow remodel boxes at Lowe’s or HD, as they will be shallow enough for trailer walls, and they will mount to side of wall studs. Think about where you want to locate these, and rivet the boxes , as screws will shake loose later.
Separate line for exterior receipts, on outside on gfi, and feed from first outlet to other(s).
3 way on your interior lights is a good idea. Very simple to do. At least 2 outlets of front wall, where cabinet will be later.
Air is up to you. I just leave my small compressor sitting under edge of trailer, to use when needed.

Run air lines to all 4 sides to outside quick disconnects. That way you can use air tools all around.

Big box stores sell 4 ft led lights, Amazon has the led lights for the outside.

Dave

NM-B (Romex) is solid conductor. I cannot recommend using it for shallow boxes and I'm guessing the Marine cable above is stranded. At least verify that the cable you do use is rated at the applied voltage. Using non-metallic boxes may be ok but a) not readily available in shallow and b) the plastic holes for your device screws are only good for a few screwins. (And I meant to say screwins)
Since you like to over complicate things you could use a little relay hidden away in a cabinet or under bench and use low voltage switching that does not take any boxes.
Good luck
BW

yes air connection are next thing to tackle. I was thinking front a rear right side. Tuck lines up against frame in corners to protect from road debris.

What you mean complicate.I call it trick.Then wife says hard headed I call it determined.

Maybe I not state clearly happens a lot. Finding non metallic boxes that are shallow and I can attach the schedule 40 conduit to is issue.Remodeling does not have the same material and can't glue them.

I think I can buy the 45* corners pieces in polished aluminum or SS. I have seen them for sale but can not member where.

Going 12 ga on wire.Did not know about the 20 amp part.Difference is 18 bucks between 12 and 14,why chance it right? Cheating some electrician wiring a cpl jobs said he had me covered there anyway.

Panel I found is 100 amp should be more than enough and fairly compact.

I know I come up with already doping that on lots.No disrespect meant by it I appreciate all helping me cover as many bases as can now while its easy to do. This isn't a super tricked out piece,but hey might as well do as much as can to get close and make more enjoyable time at track.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

Definitely use LED lights, they use less power (smaller generator!)and they last longer an you do not have to tie the bulbs up or worry about them coming down. I agree with wiring it and insulating it before you skin the inside.

Set it up so you can run off of a generator or extension cord from house. You may also want to put a few 12 volt lights in there with a switch by the door for when you are hooked up to your truck and need to go in for gas can or whatever the 12 volt lights come in handy. I wired in a few outlets up front for my computers, fans, go pro battery chargers etc.

hopefully a week of late nights and hard weekend and I will have most of it done. After it gets here that is. hopefully in cpl weeks they will have it ready for pick up.

I have a Pace 48 foot trailer. I got it as a oil soaked box. I have gone thru many aspects of trailer wiring, plumbing and lots more. I kept a photo log of lots of things I have done. From holding tanks to mounting LED exterior lights. Here is a link to my photo log.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fgya35iSULWrUqoE7
I used type MC cable for all AC power. Then I used 12 gauge landscape wire for all the DC equipment. I have just about 1 device per circuit. I also wired a wireless camera to the back of the trailer with a switch under the goose neck to have control on it when at a stop for meals. If you have any questions Ill give you info. BTW everyone has a different way of doing things.

Chuck
PAE

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PineApple Express Racing,

Man PineApple Express you do take some pics. I have always said I was going to do that on project and never gotten it done.

Are you sure your project would not have been easier to just build a trailer and incorporate all of you stuff into it?

Lots of work!!!

How do you wire a wireless camera?

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
How do you wire a wireless camera?

Lol, I was wondering same thing although the back up camera could be a big help.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
How do you wire a wireless camera?

Lol, I was wondering same thing although the back up camera could be a big help.

I had to provide power to the camera. The signals are wireless....wise guys... LOL

What happened I have a 2016 GMC Denali dually. There was a GMC approved aftermarket camera system for my truck as it has the 8 inch radio display. The camera system has a grill camera, cameras on each rear view mirror on the outside. The I made sure the wireless camera was also part of the package. It had to work with my 48 foot trailer. I had them install it and then took the truck home to check it out. Yes it does work. I also paid for a couple of extras. I am able to type in on the display as a example a address while driving. NO I do NOT make the entry but my wife does. I also have a app that mirrors my cell phone on the display screen. It allows me to use google maps etc. In several shots you can see I tried to mount the wireless camera on the side of the trailer to check the view with a side mount camera. It does help. One problem occurs is that when reversing the GM tail gate cam over rides any thing displayed on the radio display. That's a pain in the arse as I need to pull up multiple times as I only have 2 feet on each side of the trailer from my wall and the eve of the roof. Yes I take pictures to record what I have done and in case I need to fix something. Have you tried to protect your cameras on trailers and motor home when not in use. I have found hose bib winter covers does a great job keeping the sun beating on the cameras, Also protects from rains etc.

Here is a link to the cameras on my truck as well as some install pictures I took when the installers were doing the install.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/L64KAKku4CnaDs1r5

Chuck
PAE

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PineApple Express Racing,

For the air lines get the quick connect ends from Coilhose Pneumatics. They’re the best and take any male hose plug in. Plus they have a sliding collar to release pressure on the hose.

For the 110v wiring I did it surface moint with plastic conduit. Cut the outside of the trailer and used shallow boxes and outdoor receptacles with cover. I mounted boxes inside directly behind the outside ones to wire them. I put outlets along the top edge of the wall and switched 1/2 of the outlet and then plugged in pre-wired 4' LED lights from Costco. 3 of the 4' LED's light up my 28' pretty good. This way I have switches for the lights and the other part of the outlet stays hot. I used a 2 breaker box mounted in the closet fed with an RV 30 amp cord that plugs into my generator on the tongue. For the cord I used an RV extension cord and the felae end I cut off became an adapter so I can plug into the garage power.
I don't get the airlines deal. I use a $40 Harbor Freight compressor and a 50' air hose for tires at the track. It sits by the back door strapped to the wall. Cordless tools are all the rage and I see no need for more than 1 place for tire air. If I need power tools at a race track it's only to swap tires.
One thing I want to do is put some lights around the floor of the trailer for strapping the car down. It will make it easier to see under there.

Reasons for air lines. Two. One I have always found that being prepared for worst helps avoid it or so t seems. Go prepared to tear car down to bare chassis if need and hope to not even have to air up tires.

Second is I know me and the old heads up pro car guy inside. I will tear into it and having air tools just make it easier. Cordless tools are nice,but cost and I have air tools laying here at zero cost.Plus with air compressor mounted inside I don't have to unlaod and load t. ALso can have compressor with bigger tank this way. WHich it just so happens I have a cpl sitting around that need minor repairs,we just never repair them for job and just buy new one.


Thanks for remind on making it easy to hook to shop.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

Will check into those after I go thru the 20 or so in shop.Buy lots of multi piece things and some never get used just put on shelf. Right now I am hoping to be able to get insulated and covered inside. parking pad costing more than anticipated,imagine that. I don't care how much extra I put in it almost never comes in under budget. Cussing MAO.