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DRR / Crew |
I'm familiar with that coach and set up. NO PROBLEM! I had the 35 ft version and towed a stacker exclusively for 130k mile no problem with a reinforced hitch The engine has plenty of power. Actually the same as a 330-360 diesel. Being on a Workhorse Chassis it's fine and it's a FULL FRAME back to where the hitch is. Hopefully it has the 22" wheels which is the larger brakes, etc. Go with it! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
The one Im looking at is a Fleetwood Terra. Is this the one you are referring to? It has alot of rear overhang which makes me nervous and doesnt have the 22" wheels. Thanks! Straightline Innovations - Performance Parts -Enclosed Trailer Screws | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Mine has the 19.5 and have had no issues. The brakes on the Kodiak chassis work very well. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by bbf514: Mine has the 19.5 and have had no issues. The brakes on the Kodiak chassis work very well.[/QUOTE) Got any pictures of the ol girl? Thanks Straightline Innovations - Performance Parts -Enclosed Trailer Screws | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
If you tow … with a C or super c , make sure it has the bottom frame bolts plus two rear cross bolts..frame shouldered flange grade eight bolts! Plus welded in! Ask me how we know! California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I towed a 28' & a 32' enclosed with a 35' motorhome on a 2000 Ford F550 chassis with a V10... no issues. I did have the hitch & rear frame reinforced. I also reduced the tongue weight as much as I could by emptying my cabinets, rolling the car and golf cart as far back in the trailer as possible, etc. since the long wheelbase of the motorhome doesn't need as much tongue weight to tow well compared to a pickup or Suburban. Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Jeff bought a 37 Navistar/Nexus/cummins. 25k hitch. I think we put about 20k mikes on it and the hitch failed heading to Pomona. We were very lucky! Three hours later and a welder service call we were on our way. We braced it up after that at my place. Having the correct trailer/ axle location ( x3) really helps too. Drives with one hand. California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Had a gas burner 33' holiday rambler, early 90's model, frame was cracked at the rear end, top web of the C channel when i bought it. I inspected before i ever connected my trailer to it. Crack initiated at a hold down clamp for the generator gas supply line, the manufacturer installed with a self tapping screw. Once i found that, i boxed the frame from in front of the rear end to the hitch. Never had any other problems, 7 years towing 28' all steel cargo mate, loaded with everything needed to race plus spares. As stated before break out the welder, but consider re-enforcing the frame not just the hitch. If the frame is going to crack it will be where the rear frame cantilever point is, for me it was the rear suspension spring attachment points. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
A friend had his stacker trailer break where the "A" frame connects to the main frame, it dropped nearly all the way to the ground. This is an area most of us would never check for cracks. At freeway speed it could have ended up being a catastrophic failure. Just thought I would mention this in the hopes it might save someone in the future. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Very good point! Straightline Innovations - Performance Parts -Enclosed Trailer Screws | |||
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DRR Pro |
The preferred Class C chassis is the Phord, because the frame rails are longer, but will still require a ton of work to brace the hitch. I had a 29' on a Phord E-450 V-10 chassis for a year, and never even hooked a trailer to it. Had a chance to sell it for a good profit before I did the frame / hitch work, so I sent it. Bought a new Dually with the thought of a future LQ gooseneck unit. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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