Once a jagoff, always a jagoff. Through the 31 years of my racing, and if I divided that by 10, you still couldn't come close to the amount of passes and experience of myself or many that participate herein. When you do get that patched up shyt box out, you typically set it a blaze (on fire) from your dumb azz neglagence. The last thing you should be holding is a wrench in your hands, and if you weren't so busy stepping on your dik, you'd be holding that in your hand as well...........classic that you can't keep your own engine together, let alone get into engine building.....lmmfao!

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Originally posted by Mark Yeager:

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Originally posted by racerdude2054:
130 in burnout box, 140-150 staging with pump and fan on and 160 once I’m back at the Trailer. Depending on how long it is before I go back up is if I will cool the car or not. I usually want it around 120-130 when I crank it back up

Same for me.

Me too unless double entered...tends to be warmer by 10 degrees on each temp listed.

With the prices that I see for racing gas, I am surprised by the hate for alky. I haven't, and wouldn't race on anything else in the past 25 years.

What are the dimensions of some of the radiators by the posters?
I'm switching back to gas for the spring and am trying to use a 13"x22" afco rad.

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Originally posted by Bucky:
With the prices that I see for racing gas, I am surprised by the hate for alky. I haven't, and wouldn't race on anything else in the past 25 years.

What are you paying for a drum of alcohol in your area

I think last time it was $140

It vary`s around here $130/140

At Bandimere, if you haven't been there before, the staging lanes, track, and runout area combined are over 1/2 mile long, getting close to the 3/4 mark. On my ride, I have a two core radiator, cool my car below 100* in the pits....usually about 120-130 when I start the burnout, 170-180 at the end of the run and edging 200 when I get back to the pit...That's if I don't tow it....If I tow, then it never gets over about 160-170.......and it saves a TON of fuel!!!

I do the same as Racerdude. But I added a twist. I have 2 radiators to trans coolers under radiators one in front of foot box and one over swingarm shock area. I'm waiting on some alky guy not to want to prestige and jack around. I can sit there til he runs out of fuel. And drive to concession stand after run for a snack. Sometimes no fan then one fan if needed but if some reason I need to cool faster I can kick on both.

I got a steel head engine and it gets a little warmer than what I'm seeing here . It's one if them shirroco's w/top fan .

We drilled and tapped both water ports on the rear of our BBC 540 installed a crossover between them and I could not believe how much this helped, I wished I would have done this 5 years ago. 345 dart heads with Super Victor intake.

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Originally posted by GEAR_HEAD:
We drilled and tapped both water ports on the rear of our BBC 540 installed a crossover between them and I could not believe how much this helped, I wished I would have done this 5 years ago. 345 dart heads with Super Victor intake.

Back of the intake?

Yes the back of the intake. Short sweet and simple.

Pertaining to question on radiator, I have a left steer roadster , with 598 on gas , no opening on frt end . Current radiator is 20 wide by 13 tall with 2" core . Not working for me in summer heat deep into rounds . I have room for taller an thicker , currently talking to Ron Davis radiator, explain my situation, says he can help . I am interested in previous post on crossover tube on back of manifold . I will look into this further . I run gas because I am a Sunoco gas dealer , run a second car SS car on gas , an sometimes cars will sent several weeks between races .

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I have a left steer roadster , with 598 on gas , no opening on frt end . Current radiator is 20 wide by 13 tall with 2" core . Not working for me in summer heat deep into rounds

It typically all boils down to the ability to pull the btu's off the core. I will tell you this, that a 16V battery makes a big difference over a 12 volt system, and not only the water pump runs faster, but the electric fan increases it's cfm output. When your hot lapping, the first thing to do is to get the charger onto the battery and leave that fan and water pump running, then you can refuel and check your data. The cooler you go in, the better control you'll have over your temps. The majority of chevrolets are plumbed wrong. Instead of going into the neck which is bolted to the T state housing area on the manifold, it should go right into the front of the manifold and smack in the middle of the water crossover that is incorporated into the intake manifold. Yes, you'll have to either drill and tap or weld a fitting on. This will keep the air out of the system and will allow for more air above the highest area of the coolant.