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Dragster rear pads.. again
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DRR S/Pro
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It seems to me from working on lots of different cars with different brand brakes and different drivers, most of the issue is the driver and how they use their brakes. Some people just stand on the brakes until the car stops, SUPER heating the brakes and never giving them a chance to cool. With thin solid rotors you HAVE TO apply-release-apply-release-apply-releases killing speed and cooling the brakes. Otherwise you will burn up the brakes.

My car has M/W brakes, I stop just fine at one very short shut down track at 195-198 with no chute and no issues.

Try giving your brakes a "breather" while stopping and see how much it helps cool them Smile


4.39 @ 157 so far.....

6.90 @ 194 trying for more......

533" single carb
235" Harrison 4-link
 
Posts: 2194 | Location: Mark'n and brand'n cattle.. | Registered: June 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Paul,

I have run the Lamb brakes since they were working out of their garage at home. IMHO the cast iron rotors are the only way to fly. I have seen the others crack and break and I'm sorry but my life is worth the extra 500 bucks or however much difference there is now.

Ain't a car on the road today that I know of that has steel rotors. The housing in my car uses the olds ends but your Strange I'm not sure of. They might use the symmetrical ends.

Bruce Williams had a work around to use a different iron rotor with his brakes. He can tell you what he did. There are other iron brakes out there but I'm old and my memory is shot. I think Brakeman or something like that.

Good luck with whatever you pick.


One day with the top down is better than a lifetime in a box!
 
Posts: 4601 | Location: the twilight zone!! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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quote:
Originally posted by Cashflow:
Paul,

I have run the Lamb brakes since they were working out of their garage at home. IMHO the cast iron rotors are the only way to fly. I have seen the others crack and break and I'm sorry but my life is worth the extra 500 bucks or however much difference there is now.

Ain't a car on the road today that I know of that has steel rotors. The housing in my car uses the olds ends but your Strange I'm not sure of. They might use the symmetrical ends.

Bruce Williams had a work around to use a different iron rotor with his brakes. He can tell you what he did. There are other iron brakes out there but I'm old and my memory is shot. I think Brakeman or something like that.

Good luck with whatever you pick.


It's just odd for me reading about a part that is cast being less prone to cracking. I'm not saying that working experience with these isn't exactly that, but it goes contrary to a lot of experience. Usually if you want something made less expensively, the casting process is where you look. Otherwise you forge or cut out of a solid piece for greater strength and less porosity, inclusions and tendency to crack. This must be a case where the heat wins out over strength overall. I have never seen a Lamb failure, but frankly, I have seen maybe one set of Lambs on a race car. So to see one fail would be statistically improbable.


"He's going the distance! He's going for speed!"
 
Posts: 4188 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Bucky,

Even a Yugo had cast iron rotors. The fact is steel rotors crack and break. I've seen it too many times. There was a T/D pitted next to us in Vegas a few years ago. His steel brake rotor completely broke. Mind you this was a NICE car, very well prepared, and dang fast. It's a wonder he didn't wreck the thing. Only thing I know to tell you is the iron is more stable.

As far as seeing Lamb brakes head over to the comp pits and take a look.

I didn't buy the most expensive "everything" to put on my car. I'm on a budget just like most racers but I'm not skimping on the brakes. You can always make it go faster, you get ONE chance to stop.

Everyone pick your poison and let's race!!


One day with the top down is better than a lifetime in a box!
 
Posts: 4601 | Location: the twilight zone!! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Hammertime
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Ive ran the speeds your at for several years, with Willwood, Aerospace, Strange and Moser brake setups. I've also ran several brands of pads and compounds, best by far is the Hawk DR97 Pads.


David Lanning

Fleenor Racing Powerglides
419-280-1406

Wiseco Performance
http://www.wiseco.com/

Lanning Electric
APD, BTE, Digital Delay, Hughes, Reid & Trans Specialties Dealer



 
Posts: 5192 | Location: Coldwater,MI | Registered: November 17, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of adv ET 266
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Vern Talked to Betty just now. I need is to figure out what housing ends on my Strange cast rear and send her a nice check.

She indicated her brakes last a long time both pad at Rotor. Also said go with the solid rotors not swiss cheese version.

I know you race very little but can you guess at the life 1/4 mile racing. 100 runs 200 runs??


2005 M&M 4 link dragster home brew 2000lb Dart 355 head 582
1.069
3.002
4.654@148
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 13106 | Location: need to hook up | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I think there are a lot of good comments noted in this tread but the simple facts are speed is not the only thing that determines how good brakes work or don't... Shutdown length and car weight also mean a bucnh. Hell if anyone has raced at Maple Grove the shut down goes down hill!!! Quaker City goes up hill! Atco you almost don't need brakes the shutdown is so long!

I can say for certain that MW and Lamb are a hell of a better product than Strange! Not that Strange is junk,,, but once you get to a point where you need to use the metallic pads for the Strange brakes you will wear those suckers out fast and although they will stop decent, MW stop 100% and the pads last much longer, same for Lamb. For those who say cast rotors are the way to go, they brake too! and they wear out faster. We are talking about cars getting close to 200 MPH, you have to inspect this stuff on a regular basis, the harder you push it the more it needs to be looked at it. If you don't it will bite you sooner or later.

Pick your poison Paul. But the pay me now or later deal really does apply here.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TOP38,
 
Posts: 972 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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quote:

I have the new style 2 piece Strange slotted rotors and they are pretty new yet look like stop signs. In time I need to get better brakes. I do worry about them cracking. I heard the Rotors cup on the MW so no great solution presents itself.



Who told you that Starange?
Mark Williams is a far superior product.
 
Posts: 103 | Location: Grand Lake, Colorado | Registered: November 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of adv ET 266
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Go back and read what I said. I saw it with my own eyes


2005 M&M 4 link dragster home brew 2000lb Dart 355 head 582
1.069
3.002
4.654@148
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 13106 | Location: need to hook up | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Paul,

I always have great intentions of racing more but somehow work gets in the way. This year we've been to the Phoenix double, Tucson, San Antonio double, we'll run Roswell Saturday, Hobbs Big Money on the 1st and then the Denver Divisional. That's pretty good for me. LOL

Probably have 350 runs or so on the original rotors. I just changed pads last season so assume 300 runs on the pads. These are the solid cast iron rotors.

90% of that was quarter mile. Your mileage may vary. I try not to be hard on my brakes. I virtually never make the first turn off. My Simpson chute is circa 1985, it was on my roadster, now on the dragster and it has never been deployed.

Good luck with your new brakes.


One day with the top down is better than a lifetime in a box!
 
Posts: 4601 | Location: the twilight zone!! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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I've NEVER seen a M/W rotor cupped... My first rotors had over 1000 passes on them, second set has way over 500 and the rotors look basically new. I'm on my 4 set of pads, so that's around 1600 runs on 4 sets, and the current ones don't need to be changed yet..


4.39 @ 157 so far.....

6.90 @ 194 trying for more......

533" single carb
235" Harrison 4-link
 
Posts: 2194 | Location: Mark'n and brand'n cattle.. | Registered: June 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of adv ET 266
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FedEx shows up with Summit parts so I get my Brake parts. Smile
Ordered 8 Strange B5020 pads.

Received 6 Gold pads and 2 HAWK black pads. They all came in single bags marked with same strange number STR-B5020

I installed 4 of new Gold ones
Strange rotors looks like stops signs but no cracks

The 2 that are Hawk brand Confused
are marked HB267 DTC-30
They are also they have a slice down the center (between caliper cups)

I'll call Strange Monday and see what's up but no way I'm running a mix of these and the Gold ones.

Has anyone verified if the HAWK pad has the same performance as B5020 gold?

I messed up and ordered a one piece rotor so it does not match the new 2 piece one so rotors will have to wait


2005 M&M 4 link dragster home brew 2000lb Dart 355 head 582
1.069
3.002
4.654@148
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 13106 | Location: need to hook up | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Nomad, gave the best advice back on page 1, You absolutely need sufficient line pressure to stop the vehicle in the alotted space. Without it you will damage the rotors and eat pads regardless of the manufacturer. The first "hit" of the pedal is the most important, it can successfully reduce the speed without generating excessive and damaging heat if there is enough clamping pressure or it can inadequately apply the pads allowing the rotor to "slip" through them , producing tons of heat and warping rotors almost instantly.. a .400" thick rotor is only going to absorb so much heat.People substitute pads in an attempt to prolong pad wear and minimize rotor destruction.
Drag race vehicles, especially fast ones do not respond well[stop] with endurance type mettalic pads that were designed to be used with thick vented rotors in repeated stopping conditions. Fast drag cars run out of real estate quickly if the first hit is ineffective, then the driver plants his foot and tries harder to stop the car..more heat, more destruction and more inquiry as which pad to use
A pad that wasnt designed to operate at 1000F is better because our skinny rotors arent going to survive at 1000F... Line pressure is essential, most sprtsman chassis builders have poor pedal ratios...the pedal may feel solid but unless you check the pressure generated at the CALIPER...you do not know what you have. First Hit is the Key... not a gorilla stomp either....
 
Posts: 153 | Location: North Royalton Ohio US*** | Registered: January 08, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by S/S Dart:
Nomad, gave the best advice back on page 1, You absolutely need sufficient line pressure to stop the vehicle in the alotted space. Without it you will damage the rotors and eat pads regardless of the manufacturer. The first "hit" of the pedal is the most important, it can successfully reduce the speed without generating excessive and damaging heat if there is enough clamping pressure or it can inadequately apply the pads allowing the rotor to "slip" through them , producing tons of heat and warping rotors almost instantly.. a .400" thick rotor is only going to absorb so much heat.People substitute pads in an attempt to prolong pad wear and minimize rotor destruction.
Drag race vehicles, especially fast ones do not respond well[stop] with endurance type mettalic pads that were designed to be used with thick vented rotors in repeated stopping conditions. Fast drag cars run out of real estate quickly if the first hit is ineffective, then the driver plants his foot and tries harder to stop the car..more heat, more destruction and more inquiry as which pad to use
A pad that wasnt designed to operate at 1000F is better because our skinny rotors arent going to survive at 1000F... Line pressure is essential, most sprtsman chassis builders have poor pedal ratios...the pedal may feel solid but unless you check the pressure generated at the CALIPER...you do not know what you have. First Hit is the Key... not a gorilla stomp either....
YUP!!!!

7:1 is what we build them at, mine has 1700psi if I mash it, 1400-1500 with a normal push..


4.39 @ 157 so far.....

6.90 @ 194 trying for more......

533" single carb
235" Harrison 4-link
 
Posts: 2194 | Location: Mark'n and brand'n cattle.. | Registered: June 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Will Knows.... Cool
 
Posts: 153 | Location: North Royalton Ohio US*** | Registered: January 08, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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quote:
Strange rotors looks like stops signs but no cracks



Are you sayin you are puttin new pads on wrapped rotors? If you are I am willin to bet they don't stop . Hope that's not what you're sayin.
 
Posts: 8659 | Location: Turnin left on the dirt | Registered: March 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Bruce Williams
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Paul, this is what I can tell you about my experience with various rear disc brake set ups.
I have ran several different brands ,with a flame cut steel rotor and the Lamb with the cast iron rotors.
All of the steel plate rotors that I ran would cup eventually from the heat differential from the center to the outside edge of the rotor. I tried many different pads to try and prevent this with no success.
My experience with the Lamb cast iron rotors has been very good. This is not to say that due to my attempt at saving a buck that I have not had some problems.
The lamb cast iron rotors should be ran with the pads that Lamb supplies for their rotors.
The cast iron rotors will wear out eventually and the will crack if you run them too long.
it has been my experience the Lambs will out last the other brands that I have tried.
The most important thing in my mind, is the Lamb brakes stop better than any other brake I have ran.
Yes they are expensive, but when you race at a short track like Firebird I needed the extra stopping power to make the last turn with out using the parachute.


Bruce Lee Cool

Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
 
Posts: 2347 | Location: Chandler Arizona | Registered: August 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of adv ET 266
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E not warped or cupped. You woul have to see what I means about stop sign.

7/8" master cylinder
Peddle ration 3.6:1

Not far off from what's needed on MW web site.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Nobody seen HAWK pads as Strange Eng B5020?


2005 M&M 4 link dragster home brew 2000lb Dart 355 head 582
1.069
3.002
4.654@148
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 13106 | Location: need to hook up | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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Cool
 
Posts: 8659 | Location: Turnin left on the dirt | Registered: March 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of adv ET 266
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Called Strange Engineering. Fore sure the HAWK black colored pads that came in bags labled B5020 was a mistake. He said it sounded like the Organic pans B5010?

Also found out on the 2 piece rotors I use the sell the rotor alone part number B2794A $99 list
So you do not have to replace the entire deal on these new oner ones.


2005 M&M 4 link dragster home brew 2000lb Dart 355 head 582
1.069
3.002
4.654@148
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 13106 | Location: need to hook up | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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