This isn't just a GM problem. Have the same issue with my Tundra, Mustang and the wifes Subarus over the years.
I always clean the caliper surface area where the stainless steel slides mount. Then I have found if you file the sharp edges on the pad and round them slightly where they contact the slides, the brakes function like they are supposed to. On the pads I didn't file, they hung up, wear out way too early and killed the rotors on a couple different vehicles. I tried different pad manufacturers too before I figured it out.
72 Nova "Hooptie"
February 21, 2020, 10:46 AM
Bucky
Great idea on the rounding and I will use that in the future
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
February 21, 2020, 02:46 PM
TD3550
File/die grinder will always be your friend
"Grind to fit". When you use foreign steel.
February 21, 2020, 03:26 PM
FootbrakeJim
quote:
Originally posted by "The Bender": Welcome to today's world of auto repair
THIS. ^^^
Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!!
February 21, 2020, 03:31 PM
Bucky
quote:
Originally posted by TD3550: File/die grinder will always be your friend
"Grind to fit". When you use foreign steel.
Were the OE pads foreign steel? Because they fit just like the new pads.
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
February 23, 2020, 09:42 AM
BP758
quote:
Originally posted by SlyFox: Suck it up and buy the GM pads
Nothing lasts like OEM and stays quiet. The new rotors (aftermarket) come pre warped! Sent mom’s car out for brakes, pads blew up twice! Sounded like the front bearings/rotors blew up! So much for aftermarket parts.This message has been edited. Last edited by: BP758,
Raceless in California!
February 23, 2020, 05:33 PM
Steve from Pa
I'm not a mechanic, but our 2500HD I've cleaned then out with new slides everything, but I still end up having to get a flapper wheel and clearance the rear pads every time. I've been having the best luck with the Wagner quite stop pads on my dailies, just seem to be way better than the others I've been buying around here.
