I "thought" the 8.8 Ford rear would be a good choice for my Studebaker project but unless I am overlooking the market, I do not see a pro drag race gear available. Those of you running the 8.8 rear, will it give good service life with an OE style gear? My past shows that I will eventually ask the Studebaker to go fast and quick and I do not want to install something that will not hold up.

I need the rear to live when running low 6's 1/8 mile at about 3000 pounds.

Do some of you run the 8.8 rear at that performance level?

I helped my buddy put his 93 Mustang together. It weighs 2800lbs and runs 6.0-6.20s depending on the weather and track. It has an 8.8 with street gears, Moser spool and axles in it, no worries. Its a bracket car, so it get used regularly.

I thought I heard that the 8.8" Ford was almost a direct copy of the Chevy passenger car 12-bolt. Wondering if it will accept a Chevy R&P?

Larry,Motive makes an 8.8 Pro gear,but it's only available in 3.90 ratio.

Larry,

My 3000 pound door car has been doing just fine with a run of the mill (read that as "cheap") set of Motive gears. 4.10 gear currently and the car runs 5.9x-6.x in the 1/8th.

Using a street gear for drag only you set it up tight on backlash. Real tight if you aren't going to take extended highway cruises.
Track only, .000x" to .002"
Some street use, set at up to .004"

We have use dthe FRPP gears with as much as 1200HP in a 3300lb car.

Thanks to each of you for the feedback. I am moving along with the original plans. [installing an 8.8 rear]

it'll be fine. Run a good quality girdle cover and adjust the screws properly. You might look at bracing the housing as that seems to work. I haven't followed your build but are you going to run c-clip axles? If you are planning on it, before you start working the rear end over, you might consider using 9" ends on it instead of using c-clip eliminators.

quote:

you might consider using 9" ends on it instead of using c-clip eliminators

10-4, that is the plan.

35 spline axles, spool, and big bearing ends.

quote:

Originally posted by M802138:
it'll be fine. Run a good quality girdle cover and adjust the screws properly. You might look at bracing the housing as that seems to work. I haven't followed your build but are you going to run c-clip axles? If you are planning on it, before you start working the rear end over, you might consider using 9" ends on it instead of using c-clip eliminators.

X2 for bracing, especially if its a 2010 and up. At the very least weld the tubes. They are known to spin/move in the housing behind as little as 400whp without bracing/welding.