After finding bearing material in my oil filter, I tore down my engine and found the #7 rod bearing black and getting ready to spin. This was after only 50 passes from a having the engine freshened from the same type of problem with a main bearing after 50-60 passes. When I removed the gear from the cam I found several markings that looked like an electrical ark or a weld. Is it possible that I do not have a good enough ground going from the engine to the frame and I am grounding through the crank and the cam? I have a #10 wire running from a grounding stud on the frame going to the head. The water pump, starter and, alternator all ground through the engine. My chassis and motor plates are both powder coated and not a good contact for a ground. Has anyone seen or heard of this type of problem? What type of wire do you run for your engine ground and do you have it connected to the head or the block? Any help would be appreciated; I need to get more than 50 passes out of a rebuild!!

Thanks,

Ron Truhler

You have 10gauge from head to ground stud but does the ground stud have a direct ground to battery also ?


Mine has #4 from block to chassis, but I've ran nothing in the past without any issues, it is possible to have this issue though. Grounding all the things you have through the motor is a terrible idea also, they should be ran to a direct ground source.

Thanks David, I am going to change the ground to go to the block instead of the head. Also going the run ground wire to the other stuff on the engine. I have a wire running up the chassis to the battery from the ground stud, just might not be large enough?

I have 2 gauge from battery to ground stud where I have most everything grounded, then have 10 gauge from front of car to back ground point, and ground everything in the back of the car at that point. I also have a 4 gauge wire off that to the side of the block. Ground issues can be hell !!

I seriously dought that your ground problem has anything to do with your oiling problem.When they did the engine after the spun main bearing, did they change the cam bearings?
They're is grooves behind the cam bearings that carry oil and fill up with junk after a spun bearing.

a smart man once told me you can never have enough ground. i ground everything to the battery, i have a cable from the block to the battery, cable from a front chassis ground to the battery, and a cable to the chassis where the battery is mounted.

Not sure if a ground problem would ever cause what you described, but we learn something new every day! I personally never use the engine as a grounding point....FOR ANYTHING. Way to many dissimilar metals to deal with!!! The best way to ground the motor is a 4Ga from head to head to grounding point, preferably the battery!

I would run a ground wire comparable to the size of your signature pic.

LMAO, that ought to get it done dont ya think

(I would run a ground wire comparable to the size of your signature pic.)

X2

IT'S HUGE!!!!!

Thanks for the input guys! I am trying figure out how to reduce the size of the picture, any help?

go to photobucket (it's free) post it there, then use the resize tool, then put it back on the signature.....
hurry it up man, your guna get me in trouble at work, now I have to minimize this...!!!!!

there you go! nice cars BTW.
Now your on your way

I had a #6 wire to fuel pump mounting bolt to body ground once. When I took off Alternator (100 AMP) it was stuck to my aluminum head. Now I have a big #2-0 ground all the way from battery to engine/switch panel.

May not be your issue but never doubt importance of proper grounding.

ANy welding done on car with motor in place?

quote:

Originally posted by haywood1:
ANy welding done on car with motor in place?

That is real good question. I seen electric motor bearings destroyed when someone repaired a bracket and put ground clamp on shaft.

Saw something like this on a street car once. a bad ground on the motor caused the rear bushing in the trans to arc and burn the bushing.so I guess it's possible.