I have ran both on my Cameron X link car, the Strange doesn't seem to have the adjustability that the Afco has? Not near as many clicks and I can't feel the change in the suspension action after an adjustment. Car is still spinning downtrack unless I take some power out. CO7 Hoosiers. Thoughts? I'm about ready to put the Afcos back on. JB
Not what you asked, but try some Mickeys. I’ve run both those brands of shocks on my car and still currently run the strange shocks. You are right in that you can “feel” the adjustments more on the afcos when moving the suspension by hand. I had downtrack issues I used to fight on mine all the time until I switched to mickeys. I tried a wide range of shock and 4 link settings, but I couldnt get it hooked down track.
I had Mickey 3183's on it till last season, there were worn slap out and of course the Mickey truck didn't have any that day so I put these Hoosiers on. 40 runs now and still spins downtrack. Tightening compression helps some but not entirely. JB
Yall are putting the plow in front of the mule. The c07 needs to be utilized properly at the hit to work down track. You set the 4 link and the shocks for the hit. Unless youre making stupid power aka mr bender goin 3.70, i dont care who says different but the suspension is just along for the ride past the tree. Plant the tire, stay on the tire. Now theres a bunch of adjustments to make to help down track, but it aint the shocks, it aint the bars, and i dont know who got everybody thinking they need to jack up their pinion angle all to hell but it sure as hell aint that either
We ran out Racetech 4 link last year with a decent engine in it for the first time. We have Strange shocks on it and id say they were marginal for us on the extension side for sure. We just needed more. Car has been 1.03 60' in Vegas fwiw..We plan Afco's if we keep it. Thinking of selling and buying a new car
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
Marcus Tullius Cicero
I ran a pair of the strange double adjustables for 12 years. Had them rebuilt by Strange once. I’d definitely use them again. The rebuild was fast and not expensive.
On the 3183’s
They are the best slick available to get down a moist or bad prep track. I never once, in 3 buys, had a set that didn’t have issues. Once was of the MT 18 wheeler. Vibration or mismatched size issues. The good news is, the MT management team always resolved the issues fast. It was also great to see them last a long time like 300 runs or more.
On a good track the Goodyear’s use to be faster.
2005 2000lb 4 link dragster
home brew 582 BBC Dart 355
My Racetech would start to lose traction and rattle the tires just beyond the shift and really got loose a couple times at Englishtown on a nice day running 7.45-7.50's
Other guys had the same issue so it was a not so great track condition
I Got stupid loose at Atco coming off the stop in S/C mode in cool air more than once as well
Hoosier C0-6 tires were on the car every time that happened.
I Put M/T 3183's on and have never had a problem anywhere
The Hoosiers needed a better track condition down track.....Like at Numidia where I had zero problems and had Hoosiers on the car.
In general I have found that the Hoosiers don't like cool/cold conditions and are more sensitive to adverse track conditions than the MT's by far also!
Not knowing the age of each shock, in general, I like the AFCO's better than the Strange shocks.
But with that said, down track issues point me in other areas than the shocks. And you know what the fix is, so get new tires. There are plenty of other trucks that will deliver to your house out there!!!!!!!!!!
Getting shocks dynoed is well worth it. At the tighter settings you can't test them by hand.
Likewise shock sensors on your data system will tell you exactly what is happening on track.
The Strange shock is a very good piece up to about 200lbs @ 5-8 inches per second (shock dyno talk) - which should cover most 900-1200hp dragsters.
There are a couple of cars around here that have issues down track when it's cold. IMO the 4 link bars are not correct. Both MT and Hoosier. The guy won't listen to me
I like Afro shocks better, but switching from strange to Afco shocks is not going to fix your problems
Switching from Hoosier to M/T may fix your problem. However, this is only puttin a bandaid on the much larger problem that you are having with your car.
There is no excuse for a car getting loose down track.... and as was mentioned earlier, this all starts with the starting line and there is really nothing you can do to fix what is happening down track. Make sure the pinion angle is right while the car is sitting, make sure that the shocks are still good on the car (are they wore out? How many passes on the shocks)
Make sure the car is planting the tires properly. If the ar is planting the tires too hard then you can have the tires acting as a lever to unload the chassis
Now: I personally run afco shocks and M/T tires... but you should be able to get it to run on Hoosier tires with no problem, you have bigger issues than the tire itself
Fix the chassis on the Hoosier and then put the M/T on it
Thanks for the insight, I agree it's probably more setup related than anything else. At Tucson last weekend I made 15 1/4 mile passes trying different things and never found the sweet spot. In 4900' air, it was a real handful at 7.60 but backing it down to 7.80's made it driveable. Chattered hard enough on one run it shut off the master disconnect at 800'. I have the Afco's on the shelf and will probably get Mickey's back on there next race. JB
I would agree that shocks are not your problem based on the description of whats going on, however if you’re interested in some top quality units then consider looking at Penske shocks. Not cheap, but I feel confident if you like the Afco, you will love the Penske.
I find it difficult to believe that your tires are even the problem if the short times are reliable. Sure you are not running the tire PSI too low and it just feels sketchy down track?
Even fuel cars wont shake in the back half, if it really is shaking the tire @ 800’ then it should be black marking all the way down to the point of shake and then trying to hook...severe black marking
Not sure if it's blacktracking but Racepak shows a pretty active driveshaft speed.
For folks that say, that shock settings don't matter down track, sorry but you are just flat wrong. I have followed others instructions for how to set them up and DEPENDING ON THE CAR, it may or may not work.
Let's review what is going on at various places on the track:
1. For the first .4-.5 into the run, the extension (or rebound) function of the shock is in play. The critical component here is bar angles, pinion angles, and tire pressure.
2. From .4-.5, the compression function becomes critical in stabilizing tire shake. If the shock has too many runs, the internal concave cup that is used to seal on compression begins to flatten over time. Eventually, it becomes flat and loses a lot of stabilization capacity. Eventually , it will go convex and provides very little sealing.
3. If the compression stroke is not working correctly, the car can easily become unstable downtrack. If the compression is set too stiff, it will not absorb bumps in the track leading to instability.
I was at Dragway 42 for the ADRL race last year. Not to blame the track, but they had not been open long and there was very little rubber on the track. The day before the race, massive rain washed the track bare Track officials kept trying to get the track to work but were unsuccessful. At the time, there were a few bumps that were causing the cars to become unsettled leading to aborted runs and cars swapping lanes. By softening the compression, I was able to ride over the bumps and absorb them keeping the tires glued. I was the first car down the track under power without an aborted run.
If the rear shocks where as critical as you make them out down track pro stockers wouldnt make it to the stripe under power and the late 90s restrictor plate races would have lasted 1 corner before 43 cars were in the garage gettin a few rounds of sledge and body panels taped on.
I believe you are not up on what is going on in ProStock. If it wasn't important, the professional teams would NOT be spending this amount of money if it was not NECESSARY to get down track: http://quartermax.com/penske-p...e-adjustable-struts/ http://quartermax.com/penske-p...-shocks-8760-series/
As for the Nascar reference, Springs play an incredible part in controlling high speed cornering and were not part of tis conversation.
Ask the HardTail guys what it's like getting down track under power on a bad track. They will tell you just how bad it can be.
You clearly have an opinion, it's just not a very informed one.
By all means go ahead and inform me then how relavent a shock absorber is when the cars set up to ride on the rear bump stops or has a linear actuator pulling it down at speed in pro stocks case.
Damn good thing this wasnt a shock information friggin life or death emergency id be dead already.
And just so were clear this was all about DOWN TRACK and the op never stated he was racin in the whoop section of a motorcross track. Although any smart guy can make a hard tail go over bumps just as well or better than a suspended car if said suspended car is a non slip joint.
That's the funniest thing I ever heard.... well its up there
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