quote:

Originally posted by green1:
Noise is typically bearing behind the seal. Most of these pumps if they leak a little water it will get into the bearing and cause rust to form. I never change the bearing on the commutator side as they were always good. Another thing to look at on that pump is the brush plate is held in place by little plastic screws and the pump I worked on the screws had came out and bounced around inside the motor. Aerospace told me I couldn’t get parts so I had to make do with what I could find.

Yep, that’s the bearing that felt a little rough. I didn’t see any sign of leakage. This pump sat for who knows how long, several years at least but looked as if it had never been bolted up (long story behind how I got it- short version, one of my buddies bought a t/k Camaro and trailer to flip, and it was in the trailer.)

Those little plastic screws looked like trouble waiting to happen, but they were tight. I didn’t figure Aerospace would sell motor parts but did figure that if I could find out who actually made the motor, might could get a spare. Honestly, while it’s sure not sexy to look at, it’s really hard to beat a good oem pump with an electric water pump drive. Had that setup for 20+ years on different cars including this one, always kept a spare belt, motor, and motor pulley but never needed any of it. Markemark hooked me up, so it’s very possible I can keep the pump I have and have a spare, “get me out of a bind” motor.

Back to the alternator situation- if the water pump draws 8, fuel pump draws 12-15, grid/HVC coil draws 10-12, electric fan draws 10-12 maybe 15, plus delay box, tbrake, linelock (both are momentary though), Matty box, etc. probably needs 50-60 amps at idle which with this current setup spins the alternator @ 2420 rpm if my math is right. Idles around 1100, pulley ratio is 2.2:1. Yesno??

So if I can find something that’ll put out 70+ amps at idle that should work and have a little wiggle room?