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| T-stat and alky | Login/Join |
| DRR Sportsman |
i dont have injection but APD carb. With the primer plus its great for several reasons. In PA here its cold in the early spring and fall. Makes getting car started a breeze. Plus I can move the car around between races during the week without having to completely warm it up. After first startup of a day the alky maintains pretty good. In cold weather, if we are stuck in pits for a long time I will start it again on the gas and put heat in. My car doesnt heat up or cool super quick. If your loosing that much heat after a run your pig rich - my car usually gains a few degrees during a run and while idling back to the pits maintains about the same temp @ 165-175* I run a 160* tstat with a few holes around the perimeter to allow continual flow. yes with an electric pump. If your keeping your engine above 160* the Tstat is open all the time. It only aids in keeping the bulk of the fluid in the motor during the <160. I would never run the motor during a run around that temp or you could see some ET changes as the cooler water gets circulated. | |||
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DRR Pro |
When I first installed the setup, the idle speed was too low and it did build temp, but very little change in rpm. James had me open the throttle plates a bit and richen the barrel valve. I've done that, now rpms are in the range that James recommended for both no load and in gear, as well as rpm climb when I pull the shutoff either half(ish) to warm up or to kill it. It's just taking a little too long to warm up, so it's likely a little too rich now. I'm going to back off the barrel adjustment slightly, and retry it. The thermostat is to help retain the heat to help minimize warm up time, but it's not going in right away. T-stats work fine with an electric water pump as long as there is a bypass. The one I got has three 3/16 holes in it to allow for that... Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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| DRR Pro |
I plan to lean it some, and see what direction the tune up wants to go the weekend of the 11th. Double race that day, so I'll at least get time trials and first round to make some tuning changes. Hehehehe, last time I went to a race to tune my car I ended up in the semis though....maybe I'll get lucky again! The t-stat is still a question mark. I got it so i'll have it but not 100% that I'll run it yet, just have to see.... This whole thing of having issues GETTING HEAT INTO the engine is new to me, I'm usually the other end of things, having trouble cooling it!!! Actually kinda nice to be on the other side of things for a change, just need some tweaks to get it right....same as anything else, rarely is it going to be spot on out of the box....I will say this, James has been great in his support of my new system, kudos to him for the help! Same for Scott for monitoring this board! Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I definitely recommend that you put that stat in, I think it will give you exactly what you are looking for. Quicker warm-ups, and not so much drop in coolant temp after a run. I use high quality thermostats, and add 4 small bypass holes around the perimeter. As long as you have some coolant bypassing the stat, it "softens" the temperature differential between open and closed. Basically smooths out the temp operating range, by eliminating the "spikes" or temperature extremes. Think of looking at your engine temp variations on a line graph, it would basically look like a saw tooth pattern, and your "modified" t-stat will clip off the upper and lower peaks and valleys. We all seek consistency in this game, and that (consistent coolant temp) is one more tool to help you put up consistent E.T.'s. Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Not saying the way i do it is the only way, but i have never ran a t-stat and have zero issue building or keeping heat in my engine. Leave the line at 170 back to the trailer at 180-190 depending on outside temp running only the waterpump. He is loosing 30 degree's of temp after a pass and is just pig rich on the barrel valve. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
^^^ Not gonna disagree with that. I know my low-speed and idle mixtures are a tad on the fat side, and on a hot day, I stage at 160, hit maybe 170* at the turn-out, and back at the pit I am at 155-160*. This with a modified/drilled 180* thermostat. Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I just toggle w/pump to gain temp. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
On my carburetor car I run a 180 stat with a single 1/8 hole for air purge. 3 3/16 holes make the stat useless. In order for a stat system to work, you have to have a recycle line just like a street car. On my Moroso electric pump I installed a -6 line into the existing hole in the pump suction side, a tapped a hole into the Brodix intake just like a street car. If you don't run the pump, the system will pressure up, and the stat won't see the actual coolant temp. Alcohol loves heat, and so will your rings and oil! RIP It's a dangerous time in America. The communists are inside the gates. Our survival is not guaranteed. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
The holes are located directly on the poppet valve....it works the same as a bypass but still allows the t stat to function properly. I'll likely need to keep tweaking the barrel valve as I've said, but I need to get some passes on the car and see where it's at first. Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Mark, do you have a leak down tester for the barrel valve? I'd have to look in my notes but as best I can recall about 28% worked fine. You're running twin terminators, is that correct? On my single about a 10 thousandth throttle blade gap would have worked fine in Florida air. About 14 thousandths in Denver. Good luck! Mine ran okay with the Ron's nozzles but I sent the whole system to Steve Casner and had him flow it. He uses Waterman nozzles. It sure seemed to work great when I got it back from him. Keep everything clean, run a good fuel filter (I don't care what anyone says about not running one) and you should be good to go. Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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| DRR Pro |
I do have one Vern. And yes, I'm running twins. Blade gap is at .008 right now. James had me richen it up but I think we went too far, so gonna back it off the amount of my last adjustment. I didn't leak the barrel valve, I couldn't find my caps to block the ports until yesterday...I'll check it to see where it's at right now and after I adjust it again. No worries on the filters, definitely running one before the pump. Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I’ve never seen the need to check the BV leak down. Set it up so it idles at the rpm you want, controls temp, snaps clean when you crack it and you’re done. It definitely sounds like you went too far richening it. Tighten the blade gap a couple thou and lean the BV about 4 flats and work from there. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
^^^^X2 | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Remember that twin throttle bodies can/should run a smaller gap than a single. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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