Need to blast and repaint my open car trailer! What one is the best, and why? Or are they about the same product. Have been told by several people not to EVER use it on a trailer. Why? No one I have talked too seems to have a good explanation? resracing,,,,

Por 15 is a great paint for frames and stuff if your not going to look at it much. Not sure what you mean by KBS paint. If your going to spend the time having it blasted. Then I would finish the job off nicely with some good paint. Unless the trailer is a pile of junk. If moneys not the big issue then heres what I would do. Get some DP90 with the 401 catalyst. (401 is for bare metal) Seal the whole thing with that. come back the next day and finish it off with a nice single stage. I did all mine in base coat clear but that just me. Look for the brand Omni. Cheap but stands up very well.

Rust-Oleum Professional

Can buy at Home Depot by the gallon and they can mix like 20 different colors.

Use the High Performance Rusty metal primer...I feel it gives a more durable base.

I just sold an open trailer I had painted with Rust-Oleum and my Wagner airless spray gun, and it sat out in my yard for six years in the sun and looked fine.
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POR is pain in the *** to use and they want you to use all their metal prep products = $$$ and use the entire can of paint in one use.

Like their directions say.."If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat
drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined
and should be thrown out. It won’t stick
properly." What kind of crap is that?

And the one that makes me scratch my head..."POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight." No sun light...I guess you can't take your stuff out of the basemant once you finish painting it

Here is a link to the KBS paint but it looks like it is very similar to the por-15. Anyone heard of it and how well it works? Trailer is well built(Bock Drag Star)has all steel tube frame AND crossmembers with aluminum ramps and a large tool box on front(82"W x 22"D x44H), Superwinch, elec. tongue jack, just kinda rusty! Wish it was a beavertail though! I am hoping I can get it fixed up for 1200 to 1500 bucks at most??? http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ Thanks, resracing,,,,

If you are wanting to spend any where near that kinda money, you can use the better paint. The last one I did couldn't have had more then 500 in to it with new lights, wood and base coat clear paint.

DECON!!! Did you do the blasting and paint yourself? I have had 2 shops look at my open trailer and they are both in this price range without new lights. That is to blast and paint the top and bottom of everything and prime and paint everything in white or black only. Anybody know if $1200 or so is in the ballpark to do this? Maybe I should keep looking? Thanks ahead for replys! resracing,,,,

It's been awhile, but when I built my open trailer, I used POR-15, and all of their products. It was a pita, in that I brushed it on the entire trailer. Not an area that didn't get covered. It is very durable, and I didn't want any rust. Since the POR-15 fades in sunlight, you have to use a top coat. This is where it got to be a real pain. You have to use their primer over the top of the POR-15, then you can paint it with a normal paint. I used an equipment enamel on mine.

As stated, it is durable, but if I had to do it over again, I would probably go a different route.

quote:

Originally posted by resracing:
DECON!!! Did you do the blasting and paint yourself? I have had 2 shops look at my open trailer and they are both in this price range without new lights. That is to blast and paint the top and bottom of everything and prime and paint everything in white or black only. Anybody know if $1200 or so is in the ballpark to do this? Maybe I should keep looking? Thanks ahead for replys! resracing,,,,

Lmao, sorry. Yes I own a body shop. So 1200 would be about right if your paying. Mine were free labor. (did them my self)

DECON? Maybe I won't have it sand blasted! Looks like a pretty big job for a 63 year old, but I'm pretty determined to finish anything I start! Since I have to make some improvements to the race car I just might try the trailer "myself" and put some of the money I saved into the car. I just went out and bought a cheap 60.00 HVLP spray gun at Harbor Freight(hope it will spray good enough to do a trailer). If I wire wheel and grind down the rust as best I can there is NO WAY I will get all the rust out where it is pitted. IS there a good rust stopper I can spray on the trailer before the topcoats that you suggested? Need something you can topcoat over without sanding. Too much diamond plate steel on floor to sand. Any other tips that you can give me??? 'HOPE' I'm not getting into something I'll be sorry I started! THANKS,,, resracing,,,,

Thanks, DECON! or anyone else that can offer some help on this repaint job.

One thing I mite do. Sand down the fenders sides all that stuff that shows you can then treat the rest with a rust killer. Go to your auto paint store and they will know what you need. Like a Rust-mort. You can always mask off the nice painted parts and Rhino line the parts that get used a lot. Schucks has some cool stuff for this.

POR-15 is great stuff but has it's drawbacks.

#1: Don't get it on your skin, it ain't coming-off! Skin needs to come-off, it stains your skin just like wood stains stain wood!

#2: I have used it on several things, brushed it on, not sprayed. It will flow-out nicely but it takes some practice to get it right and not have runs. The problem is that it is way easier to do with things laying horizontally and not vertically. Have done several rears with it and it is kinda a pain in the butt to get them to look nice.

#3: I can't imagine using it on the trailer ramps. This stuff will dry smooth as glass. If your ramps are wet good luck getting a car up there!

I had poured half a can into a plastic container so I could re-seal the original can quickly so I could use it again later. When I was done I left the plastic container and brush outside. It rained. Filled that container with water. That stuff still hardened completely under water! They say not to use it in high humidity conditions for that reason. Water makes that stuff harden very quickly!

Go down to your local Napa and buy some Black Underhood or Black Chassis paint (They have both), If memory serves me correct it's made by Technique (It comes in aerosol cans)
I used it on the frame/A-arms,etc. of my Nova when i had the frame out from underneath it and the stuff will not chip,rust through,etc.
I used the chassis black on my frame and rear diff. and the Underhood black on my floorpans,Inner fenders,etc.
You can take a knife,screwdriver,etc. to the stuff and it won't chip or peel instead it will just scuff it.
Not sure whats in the stuff but it stinks like hell and dries very fast.
Gas will not even affect the stuff if spilled on it.

Has anyone ever repainted thier roll bars this way,don't want to spray.

I painted my roll bar black with a rattle can. Looks pretty good except where I climb over the bar to get into the car. Can't keep that from getting scuffed up.

POR sucks. I did my lawn mower deck per the instructions, and the garbage peeled off in 2 years.

John Deere implement paint is rugged stuff. $40 /gallon + hardener. Lasts alot longer. Designed to be abused.

David, try putting a patch of clear plastic on your cage in the areas being rubbed. OEM uses it on the lower edges of cars to stop stone washing. Works great. Chuck

Chuck, that's a great idea. Thanks for the suggestion!

Bought an open trailer from B-I-L years ago, he had used for maybe 5-6 years never did anything to keep it up.

Fixed all of the wiring and lights, made sure brakes were good then covered it in Rustoleum rusty metal primer - used almost a gallon. Then next day, used a gloss black and rolled it on with a 3-4" roller. Came out nice but not perfect, but its a trailer! Painted inside of fenders with spray bomb and then coated them with a rubberized undercoating. That was about 5 years ago, trailer still looks okay, few spots starting to show, but a quick touchup is all it needs. Doubt if I have $75 in the whole fix-up deal including broken lights, etc.

quote:

Originally posted by resracing:
Anybody know if $1200 or so is in the ballpark to do this? Maybe I should keep looking? Thanks ahead for replys! resracing,,,,

May be worth a road trip?
Do a Mapquest for Fremont Oh. 43420
There's a Place thats called Daamans paint, They make there own paint In-house,sandblast,etc.

When i took the frame out of my Nova i completelty dis-assembled the entire thing, They blasted both the Inside and ouside of my Subframe,All 4 A-arms,Trans. crossmember and both Inner fenders to bare metal and primed all of it with some kind of black non chip primer/sealer they make In-house,
I also had them blast my stock Cast Iron Exh. and Intake manifolds to bare metal at the sametime.
They only charged me $90- for all, This was in 2,004 but can't see them charging you anywhere near $1200- to blast/Prime/Paint a open trailer.
They specialize in nothing but blasting,painting,etc.
Give them a shout and see what they tell you for a estimate,
For them to blast that trailer would be nothing for them to do as they have equipment both at there facility and on there trucks that they make house calls with to blast steel sided farmhouse barn roofs,brick houses,etc.
I'm very picky when it comes to my Nova so when i say there quality of work is good I'm not at all exagerating, I was very pleased with not only the quality of the work but the price as i was expecting to pay much more.

Daaman Paint Co.
419-332-5149