Can't get torque converter seated into the pump all the way . Pump, input shaft and converter are all new . Powerglide with turbo spline input shaft. Any ideas ?

is shaft fully seated in trans? Guessing shaft ant pump are matched as far as ring or ringless.

Sales guy at FTI recommended pump and input shaft. My transmission guy said use a scotch brite pad on stator tube splines, gonna try that tomorrow

what brand pump is it?? I know the ati pumps needs extra clearance machined on the front cover

Pump and input shaft came from FTI. Pump is part no. 25087

The torque converter (pump) drive when stuck in the pump goes through the pump seal and then a bushing just behind the seal. If the drive is tight going through that bushing, it can cause what you're describing. If that's the case lets us know here, there's a fairly easy fix I can walk you through.

hub / pump drive

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Do you feel it drop at all? I would sorta doubt that a new pump would be messed up but if that pump gear is upside down, it's not going to go in all the way. Had a new ATI pump that spun the stator on the very first pass so weird stuff can happen.

Its basically just hanging on the stator tube . My old converter would spin a little, make a clunking sound as it dropped in , spin a little more and drop all the way into the pump . This one isn't going anywhere

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 421philt,

See the bushing inside the pump half below the crescent at the bottom right hand side of the screen? That's the bushing just behind the seal. If it's tight on the drive going through, use scotchbrite to size the bushing accordingly.

I have had to stand the transmission straight up in the past when I had a tight one, using the weight of the converter while rotating they always dropped in doing that. Give it a try

quote:

Originally posted by 421philt:
Its basically just hanging on the stator tube . My old converter would spin a little, make a clunking sound as it dropped in , spin a little more and drop all the way into the pump . This one isn't going anywhere

It sounds here, like the OP is saying the converter won't turn.

Try putting the old converter back in 1st. Go from there

Take the transmission along with the converter to the guy who put the new pump in the transmission for ya. He can split the pump and size the bushing for the converter.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

@421philt

which one of our shafts do you have? I see you have the F25087 pump. If you are unsure i can look it by your name in the system.

When the converter will no longer go into the transmission all the way, does it still spin easily or is it bound up?

If it spins easily let's measure how far into the transmission the converter is. To do this measure from the face of the bell housing where the bell meets the block, down to the pad of the converter where it would go up against the flexplate. With a GM bell and stock height converter this should be right around 1.000"-1.100" Depending how much less will help us determine where to look for the fitment issue.

Any chance you remember who you spoke with here?

-Dalton

This is a fairly common situation. I had one last week like this. I had a guy I changed pumps from a ringless input shaft pump 400 turbo stator to a high flow input shaft powerglide stator, in order to lower converter pressure. I asked him to bring the converter with the transmission but he forgot to bring the converter along.

When he got home and went to put the converter in his new pump he found out why it was important to bring the converter for fitting, at the cost of a 40 mile ride back.

It's not necessarily the builders at fault, I think even if the converter is fitted months or weeks earlier, there could be expansion / contraction on the bushing. Either that or there's a slight runoff in tolerance with drives, on the assembly line. Either way it's a fairly common problem even though quality builders do all they can to minimize instances of it occurring. It happens to the best of em.

quote:

I have had to stand the transmission straight up in the past when I had a tight one, using the weight of the converter while rotating they always dropped in doing that. Give it a try

I read the title and this is the first thing I thought lol I had a tough one recently and struggled for quite a while. A buddy recommended this method and it dropped right in !!!

This F25087 seven bolt pump is the one for a mechanical diode converter. It's a aftermarket unit not a GM core press in stator tube, but a bolt in stator. The OP will see great service out of it, economically priced as well, as far as bolt in stator tube pumps go.

Good choice for a turbo application too.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
This F25087 seven bolt pump is the one for a mechanical diode converter. It's a aftermarket unit not a GM core press in stator tube, but a bolt in stator. The OP will see great service out of it, economically priced as well, as far as bolt in stator tube pumps go.

Good choice for a turbo application too.

Not just mechanical diode converters. They are also ok for spragless, roller clutch, and sprag type applications how ever we prefer the mechanical diode over a roller clutch or sprag for our converters.

With a active stator, a bolted in stator tube is preferable, more reliable from my experience.

For a mechanical diode active stator converter, I'd suggest this pump as well. It's an affordable option, makes a lot of sense to go this route from the start for a mechanical diode active stator converter, especially steel stator.

The OP will like it. Plenty durable for a active stator converter.