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Retaining trim on drag car.
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DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
posted
For you guys that have decided to retain your window trim on your drag car, how did you do it? I'm concerned about my rear window trim, as the 1/8" poly isn't as tall as the old window, and has left a gap between the window and the trim. I'm concerned air will get up in there and pop the trim off down track. What did you do to secure the trim?
Thanks...


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of XPS fan
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We shim under the lexan to bring it up to the proper height.


.


NHRA Pro Stock..........now on a no CARB diet.
 
Posts: 3082 | Location: ohio | Registered: February 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
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That ship sailed. Smile There's about a 3/8" gap.


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of HS professor
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Are you still using the factory clips ???

3/8" is a pretty good gap, but I'd try some carefully applied window urethane. I use some on all my cars, haven't lost a piece of trim in 25 years Big Grin
 
Posts: 1039 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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If bolting in there is a rubber spacer like XPS said. They are heavy though being solid rubber.

The other choice is the glue the Lexanin using windshield urethane like the stock windows. Any local glass company can install putting down the correct thickness bead.
 
Posts: 887 | Location: Westminster, MD | Registered: December 23, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
posted Hide Post
Sorry, guys. Should have been a little more clear. The window has been installed already, using 1/4" buetle (sp) roll. It wasn't enough to shim the window up to the trim. However, I would still have the same concern about air getting up under the trim. I'm thinking I may need to drill through the trim and use trim screws to screw the trim down into the window lip.


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
posted Hide Post
Here's where I'm at....





1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Those look like factory trim clips. And if they are, I think the trim will stay put. Just one opinion. Take care. Tom Worthington


If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong.
 
Posts: 632 | Location: Rocky Mount, NC | Registered: December 01, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom396:
Those look like factory trim clips. And if they are, I think the trim will stay put. Just one opinion. Take care. Tom Worthington


They are factory, Tom...


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Bad News
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Any kind of sheet metal screw has no business on a race car. Wether holding on trim or adel clamps or brackets, a sheet metal screw or a tek should not be used, as it has a great possibility to vibrate loose and end up on the track or pit area and puncture a tire. Tapped holes with loctite or pop rivits.
 
Posts: 718 | Location: ft laud | Registered: September 02, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
Picture of CH.CRAFT
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Tom396:
Those look like factory trim clips. And if they are, I think the trim will stay put. Just one opinion. Take care. Tom Worthington


I AGREE, IF THEY ARE PROPERLY INSTALLED THE FACTORY CLIPS SHOULD NOT ALLOW THE TRIM TO BLOW OFF.
 
Posts: 173 | Location: SOUTH LOUISIANA | Registered: December 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Tom Reyer
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The factory clip relies on pressure where the moulding contacts the glass to help secure them and hold them in place. They may or may not hold the way they are now.

If it were mine, I would remove the glass and use a 3/8" butyl this time.

You can also try shorter clips.


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 552 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of HS professor
posted Hide Post
Take the glass back out and use a thicker butyl "window kit" 3/8" is standard but being the lexan is thinner than regular glass, probably go 1/2".

Or as I suggested earlier, a couple small beads of window urethane shot under the mouldings would be a perfect insurance policy and barely noticeable. I've held dozens of mouldings on this way with no clips at all lol

I wouldn't trust it as is, I'm sure you'll lose a piece eventually

Screw idea wont work as it will pull the mouldings down and most likely dent them, looking like shyt...........

jmo
 
Posts: 1039 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Mark J
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Mine did not have quite that large of a gap. Being the window has the black trim around the outside I filled my gap with black silicone and smoothed it all out. You can't even tell on mine unless you a really looking, no wind under trim.
 
Posts: 40 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: May 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Bad News:
Any kind of sheet metal screw has no business on a race car. Wether holding on trim or adel clamps or brackets, a sheet metal screw or a tek should not be used, as it has a great possibility to vibrate loose and end up on the track or pit area and puncture a tire. Tapped holes with loctite or pop rivits.


Good luck with that... lol.


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of SS_Sean
posted Hide Post
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll figure something out. At least this is the back glass and not the windshield. I'm going to start with replacing some clips that have loosened up over time.


1978 Chevy Malibu
540, Rons Toilet, BTE PG, 25.5B/backhalf
8.89@150mph, 1.30 60'
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Oregon | Registered: February 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Tom Reyer
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We used to use countersunk 8-32 stainless bolts with nylock nuts.

https://www.jerrybickel.com/wi...on-kit-jbrc5020.html

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tom Reyer,


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 552 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of rs72z
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If you want to leave it with the glass like it is now, i would tape a border around the trim on the glass and the edge of the trim and use a bead of urethane all the way around. Then smooth it with your finger and remove the tape. It will look nice and hold the trim on.
Good luck getting it back out at a later date though! it will need to be cut out just like a windshield then.
 
Posts: 89 | Location: texas | Registered: November 13, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Mine worked fine running S/ST with lexan and the stock clips. However when running the car all out I had to tape the lower trim down and it wanted to move a lot and scratch the paint. Seemed to not be an issue with I went 170 or more. Was fine and never moved running S/ST


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
Marcus Tullius Cicero
 
Posts: 502 | Location: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: April 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Hotrod Corvette
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SS_Sean:
Sorry, guys. Should have been a little more clear. The window has been installed already, using 1/4" buetle (sp) roll. It wasn't enough to shim the window up to the trim. However, I would still have the same concern about air getting up under the trim. I'm thinking I may need to drill through the trim and use trim screws to screw the trim down into the window lip.


You have Butyl tape already. Just use it to hold the trim down too. In the future with Butyl tape you will be able to get the trim off again.
I did this on the corners of the windshield where the gap was a little wide on the Corvette


Burt Poissant

1969 Corvette, Reher Morrison 540, Turbo 400, 4-link.
Best times ET 8.82 @ 152, 1.21 60 ft
 
Posts: 1074 | Location: Clinton Township, MI | Registered: September 16, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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