Has anyone run into to much clearance between the end of the Bendix and the flex plate? I have .165" gap, Tilton recommends .100 +/- .040. Any companies make a longer Bendix to cure this, or an offset flex plate towards the block? Small block Chevy, Hitachi style starter. Currently has a Pioneer 153 tooth flex plate. Thanks

I'm not an expert on the Hitachi starter but you might be able to machine the motor side of the nose block down about .025". A good machine shop with a lathe should be able to look at it and see what to do.

Just to make sure this isn't really easy, there doesn't happen to be a shim installed between the nose and mounting block?

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
Just to make sure this isn't really easy, there doesn't happen to be a shim installed between the nose and mounting block?

Beat me to it. First thing I thought of.

Wish it was that easy!

Yes, my 383 SBC has a shim between the flexplate and crank. I always thought it was due to it being a one piece rear main seal block/crank. Not sure if they make the same thing for a 2 piece seal crank.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:
Yes, my 383 SBC has a shim between the flexplate and crank. I always thought it was due to it being a one piece rear main seal block/crank. Not sure if they make the same thing for a 2 piece seal crank.

Wouldn't a shim between the flexplate and crank flange make his problem worse?

Maybe i read it wrong but it sounds like he is talking front to back, not the tooth engagement clearance.

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:
Yes, my 383 SBC has a shim between the flexplate and crank. I always thought it was due to it being a one piece rear main seal block/crank. Not sure if they make the same thing for a 2 piece seal crank.

Wouldn't a shim between the flexplate and crank flange make his problem worse?

Ha, you are correct! Maybe he has a shim in there he isn't aware of?

Why not try it before making changes.

Unless your stuff is super trick it should be all standard dimensions for all involved components.

All my motors I've dealt with... Bolt it on, check if it needs a shim underneath. Put a few in and try it. Never had an issue and never had a problem after years of use

https://www.jegs.com/images/ph...0/454/454-54-952.jpg
These will move the gear away if they are there.

Flexplate isn't on backwards is it?

Wondered the same thing.

Flexplates are well....flexible. If checked without the convertor attached it could be too far away. Rotate the engine some and it could be too close.

This is being checked with no convertor, actually on the engine stand. Thanks for the replies wish it was a simple fix to it, looks like there will be some machining involved.

Does the drive engage at least 1/2 the width of the ring gear? If so, I wouldn't worry about it.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
Does the drive engage at least 1/2 the width of the ring gear? If so, I wouldn't worry about it.

This ^^^^

We would think 100% engagement would be preferred, but in the case of our 383, it wasn't. Starter was much better at 50%. I too did this on an engine stand and actually cranked it many times with and without spark plugs.

I just went through this. I am not a mechanic but whatever kind of mini starter he put on it had a shim which he removed so the starter drive went deeper into the flexplate teeth. I had a brand new CVR and it only went in less than 1/2 way and 3 ruined flexplates later I took it to someone smarter than me

Is this a 1 piece rear seal or 2? Do you have 9 teeth or 11 teeth on the starter? Also shimming the starter is gonna make it worse. That will move the starter ****her away. If you are using the 1 piece rear seal block 350 look and see if you have the correct one. Most are externally balanced. Look for weights. 2 diff starter for this application possible.

Just about all of the Hitachi starters out of the box have a drive shim in them. I almost always end up taking that shim out to increase the gear engagement with the flywheel but it's all about doing the measurements. The shim is normally .060 punched aluminum.

Good that you measured this but pull the gear shim out and see where you end up at. According to your numbers it should put you at .105 which is within spec.

Actually found the problem to be the holes drilled wrong in the mounting block, pulled a parts starter apart and used that block and .095 clearance now.