Ed, how fast does your tongue jack raise/lower your trailer?

My electric is on it's last legs....I'm looking at the hydraulic replacement ones......they just seem like a better deal..

I haven't timed it but from level to full extension maybe 30 seconds. It's very impressive, akin to the cranking difference between 12 and 16 volts

What's the full extension? I think my electric has 18" of travel but I'd have to look. It's SLOOOOOOOW though. I tried two batteries in parallel, same speed....was thinking of going in series for 24v, but didn't want to fry it...not yet......

Which brand/model is yours?

24" per the specs...

https://www.rvupgradestore.com...9EAQYASABEgIay_D_BwE

Thanks

Does it have a drop leg as well, or just a bolted on foot? Can't tell from the website...

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
Does it have a drop leg as well, or just a bolted on foot? Can't tell from the website...

IIRC, the leg does drop.

Here's the replacement leg

https://equalizersystems.com/p...-must-call-to-order/

quote:

Originally posted by Cashflow:
https://www.rvupgradestore.com...-Jack-p/qt-16-00.htm

Hmmmmmm.......

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
IIRC, the leg does drop.

Cool, thanks

Only issue I see with that one Vern is the size of the rod. 1 1/2" isn't real big and I've got a lot of weight in the nose of my trailer. I also pull the quad in and not sure how strong that thing is when the trailer starts moving around and it's up in the air....I could just load the quad first, then raise it though, but the car still moves it around quite a bit....

The Equalizer hydraulic jacks are the best in the business. My jack in most cases is fully extended when I load/unload both cars and trailer tires on the 2 front axles are off the ground. The tongue is about 4 feet off the ground.

I have to raise the nose of my trailer up like you do, flat bottom. Other issue I have is where the floor and door are hinged at the back, it's a little higher than some. With my current setup the jack doesn't have enough extension to get it where I need it, which sounds close to where yours is, so I have to put a block under it to make up the extra distance. I like the idea of the one Vern put up, but it's got 2" less travel and I'm maxing mine as is...so that would be an issue. The front axle on mine is usually off the ground, the middle one is slightly or just touching. I have ramps for the door to take up the excess. Kind of a pain but it works. I am liking the lift range of the one you have, that would eliminate my block I have now, and if the foot does drop, it's a done deal. I'll just have to fab up a mount as mine is a v-nose and I can't weld the brackets to the front rails on my trailer like they did yours.

My floor is flat too and I have a 6" wood block under the foot of my jack always.

Look close and you can see it here

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
It's very impressive, akin to the cranking difference between 12 and 16 volts

You found an AC Delco 16v battery?

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
My floor is flat too and I have a 6" wood block under the foot of my jack always.

Look close and you can see it here

Looks like my trailer sits about the same as yours does height wise when it's level. Door too. Ok, that gives me something to work from....

quote:

Originally posted by Cashflow:
https://www.rvupgradestore.com...-Jack-p/qt-16-00.htm

At that price I will never buy another regular electric.

I got the same equalizer jack and it is bad ass there is not a drop leg on mine but I will never own any other brand

I'm not certain the leg drops, never had a reason to check