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| Synthetic Racing Oil ?? | Login/Join |
DRR Sportsman |
I've been running plain old Valvoline 10w30 Full Synthetic High Mileage for years now. Haven't had any problems to date using it and its pretty cheap at Walmart. $30 for 5 qts.
72 Nova "Hooptie" | |||
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DRR Pro |
IF you are using a racing oil you can do more harm than good mixing things they don't already want in there. It's all about when you reach the yield point of the oil. Home brew oil can work fine for years if you don't actually get to a point of needing the protection the oil blender puts in their stuff. When everything is working fine most times it doesn't matter as seen by the people using street oils. JMO If what you have been using works, then keep using it. ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Pro |
I ran Mobil 1 10w-30 and used Lucas zinc additive with a flat tappet solid cam. It gave the oil and odd color and left residue in the heads. I swapped to Mobil 1 15w-50 racing oil and liked it a lot better with no additives. It has high zinc and I can bu it at Walmart. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
If the engine is happy, any good quality oil will be fine. I've never had an engine fail because of poor quality oil. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
For years I have run Walmart racing oil---Mobil 1. Never an oil related problem. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I use Mobil 1 10/30 that I usually get at BJs. Same oil that I used from 1998 in a ZZ4 crate engine. It was recommended to use Mobil 1. I did lose oil pressure coming out of a burnout but it l recovered. I staged the car and the oil light came on again after I launched,so I idled down the track. The pick up on the pump rotated. it was up against the windage tray I pulled the engine and looked at the bearings and they looked like new! This was probably over1300+ passes. Pump gas,e85 and alky I don't know if it was the oil, but I'm not changing anytime soon. Granted, I'm low HP but I used to run the hell out of it. Hopefully I'll be able to soon again.  | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
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| DRR Sportsman |
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| DRR S/Pro |
If I may repeat myself from a prior oil discussion..... "The "favorite son" oil weight that leads in "film strength" these days is 5W30. As long as you have sufficient flow, liquid oil, the oil is simply acting as a hydraulic fluid, a non-compressible liquid. When you get down to film strength/load carrying capacity/sheer resistance like pushrods, cam lobes, cylinder walls, timing chain, etc. that's the real measure of an oils protection. You should have at least 100,000 psi film protection in a performance engine. JMO" Illegitimi non carborundum | |||
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| DRR Pro |
As a few others have stated Mobil One, I prefer Mobil One 15w-50. I sometimes have a hard time finding it & will use 10w-40 - 20w-50 from the major brands. 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3000 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
We were given 3 barrels of synthetic oil for the A/fuel car. We had an issue with oil pressure dropping at top end, heck almost at hit. We went thru pan design, pump,air leak tried bunch of stuff. Finally went and got 70w(synthetic was 60) .The pressure was way better and bearings looked better,well other than ones we beat out.LOL I was getting the oil after one run and using in my car. I notcied same problem while on stand.Started out 120 and dropped to about 40 after getting some heat during cpl fire ups. I switched to 60w vr1 and problem gone. I know most do not run 60 or need it. My combo is nothing more than old Top Alcohol. TF parts have more clearance than most BBC run and have always run heavyweight. Yes it cost me some power, but hey I have been told it's bracket racing and max power is not important. Whilke synthetic works great for some or maybe most here it is not perfect for every comonation. America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Amsoil dominator racing oil here. Engine looks like new every tear down....I didn't become a dealer until after I started running it.... Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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DRR Elite |
Synthetic oil is not needed for a well designed and maintained drag race engine. The qualities in a synthetic base oil have little value to this operation. But, do your homework and you decide. The best race oil I ever ran was Schaeffer’s Micron Moly® Racing Oil, especially for methanol fuel. https://stores.buy1oils.com/micron-moly-alcohol-fuel/ 2005 2000lb 4 link dragster home brew 582 BBC Dart 355 1.058 2.98 4.629@149 6.094 7.310@185 | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
For alcohol I like the Valvoline VR1 but I would add what ever oil you rum make sure you do not run it too fat at idle and get it good and hot before you put it up in trailer after every race. Helps to evaporate the water and alcohol out of the oil. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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| DRR Pro |
^^^^^ Here’s what I like about using methanol with Holley mpfi. You can tune to use less fuel in any desired area. No additional heating needed at end of the day and no milking. I run the engine on a primer plus back to my parking area after I turn off the track the last run of the day and right into the trailer @ 180*. This is one reason why I’m trying synthetic engine oil. | |||
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