Originally posted by excessive braker: Do you follow the tree down or do you stare at the 3rd bulb only?? To be .070+ red it almost sounds like you are watching the tree come on and watching each bulb come on yet anticipating the 3rd yellow. Your car has to be pretty quick to physically see the 3rd yellow and still be that red. Something I do from track to track is race with a blinder. My reaction definitely slows down bc for me I have to look at the tree with one eye closed. If you are a tree follower or tree counter, I would highly suggest to train yourself to stare at the 3rd yellow only after all 4 stage bulbs are lit. I always followed tree down and struggled bad with consistency and when I finally made the change my bottom bulb RT's started to tighten up and actually win some rounds.
I was thinking this. block all but bottom bulb. ep-have to lose some that way I would think
September 11, 2019, 12:01 PM
Phil Dees
Set caster to maximize rollout.
September 11, 2019, 12:02 PM
moparacer
quote:
Originally posted by pauley:
quote:
Originally posted by excessive braker: Do you follow the tree down or do you stare at the 3rd bulb only?? To be .070+ red it almost sounds like you are watching the tree come on and watching each bulb come on yet anticipating the 3rd yellow. Your car has to be pretty quick to physically see the 3rd yellow and still be that red. Something I do from track to track is race with a blinder. My reaction definitely slows down bc for me I have to look at the tree with one eye closed. If you are a tree follower or tree counter, I would highly suggest to train yourself to stare at the 3rd yellow only after all 4 stage bulbs are lit. I always followed tree down and struggled bad with consistency and when I finally made the change my bottom bulb RT's started to tighten up and actually win some rounds.
I was thinking this. block all but bottom bulb. ep-have to lose some that way I would think
Tried counting years ago...Couldn't do it....I tried blocking the other year and it will definitely slow you down during the day but at night the glare becomes a problem. Didnt have the patience to make it work and gave up.
If you have access to a full practice tree you can go off a 500 pro tree or what I do is screw the top 2 bulbs out and compare RTs. You will see how much you are anticipating the 3rd bulb pretty quick. For me it is between .02-.03.
September 11, 2019, 11:29 PM
Bad Nusz
Just keep getting older. RT problem will fix itself in time. ;^)
September 12, 2019, 09:22 AM
511camaro
if your consistently hitting it .07 then you sure don't want to change what YOU do because your consistant,,,,knock 4 outta the timing that will slow it down
September 22, 2019, 10:05 PM
chasracer
Tried a couple of changes this past weekend but still going red. I have corrected most of the move to the right on launch which is good. I am looking at a larger set of front tires and sending a convertor in to have it reworked for a higher stall.
As to some that suggest I am anticipating the last bulb, I have a video now that shows the third bulb lit, then the car moving, then the pre-stage going out and the red coming on. Maybe not a solid alibi but believe me, I'm staring at that third bulb lit before I hammer it.
Originally posted by Bad Nusz: Just keep getting older. RT problem will fix itself in time. ;^)
I am proof of that, in 17 years of drag racing I have mastered the .050 reaction time. I'm 67 years old,would love to be .015 consistently.
September 25, 2019, 10:09 AM
murrre
some use pressure gauges. so they brake just as hard every time. but why not just try braking harder as a test. see what happens. before redesigning anything.
September 25, 2019, 10:12 AM
chasracer
quote:
Originally posted by naquin71nova:
quote:
Originally posted by Bad Nusz: Just keep getting older. RT problem will fix itself in time. ;^)
I am proof of that, in 17 years of drag racing I have mastered the .050 reaction time. I'm 67 years old,would love to be .015 consistently.
Ha! Right now I would settle for your .050! At least that would be some progress....
You can also slow RT when footbraking with a heavier throttle return spring. And as others have said being heavier on the brake will slow it too.
September 26, 2019, 08:07 AM
banjo
Not sure what your throttle linkage set up is, but if you play with the ratio between your gas pedal and carb, you can slow down your throttle opening.
For example, If you move the attachment point further away from the throttle shaft, you would require more throttle input/travel to go WOT.
I have a sunset racecraft pedal set up in my car where it has multiple holes to adjust this ratio. I dont know if this will slow you .05, but depending on where it's at right now, it may help.
Bill Simpkins 74 Nova SBC 406 3240 pounds Speierracing heads
60 1.27 (10/16) 1/8 6.03@111 (10/16) Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013
And I appreciate all the suggestions, just never got a chance to try anything else. We had three weekend TnT sessions cancelled at the end of the season by weather, and I decided that the New years race was too rich for me to go with a red-lighting ride.
I have some ideas on loosening the front end but haven't done anything about it yet. I did put a looser convertor in which I was hoping to try out, I probably will test that before doing anything else to the car. As to the throttle, mine is a C/E piece that is pivoted off of the cage crossbar, one connection point for the rod that goes to the carb. I can adjust the pedal up and down some but it doesn't delay the carb opening.
January 17, 2020, 08:44 AM
Mike Rietow
Add clutches in the transmission. This transmission is double O on a 370 pro tree. I added clutches and a slow bracket brake for a 400 pro tree race to set up .020, coming up this transmission will see duty in.
The concept is the same off the foot brake, minus changing the valvebody.
You could do a 10 clutch drum and as many reverse clutches as needed for adjustment.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
January 17, 2020, 09:20 AM
Mike Rietow
You can also jack the torque converter pressure up (not to exceed 120 psi) to tighten the torque converter and vice versa (not to exceed 35 psi) for R.T adjustment.
January 17, 2020, 11:18 AM
chasracer
Just put in a FTI PRO Series 4 unit. Think that's a 6 clutch pack. Not sure what's in the reverse.
January 17, 2020, 12:42 PM
Mike Rietow
quote:
Originally posted by naquin71nova:
quote:
Originally posted by Bad Nusz: Just keep getting older. RT problem will fix itself in time. ;^)
I am proof of that, in 17 years of drag racing I have mastered the .050 reaction time. I'm 67 years old,would love to be .015 consistently.
The older you get the less clutches you need, is my philosophy.
January 17, 2020, 03:10 PM
Mike Rietow
quote:
Originally posted by chasracer: Just put in a FTI PRO Series 4 unit. Think that's a 6 clutch pack. Not sure what's in the reverse.
There's an Idea for ya. Call your builder and see what they think about the idea of adding clutches as adjustment for slowing your reaction times. As you can see I'm more than capable of these adjustments for faster or slower RT's.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, 