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Door car brake line kit
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DRR Sportsman
Picture of FastLane
posted
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.

What say ye?
 
Posts: 394 | Location: Parked... | Registered: May 27, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
I make my own brake lines and you can get the tool and 3/16 brake line on Amazon. Perfect double flares without the ridges on the tubing.
https://www.amazon.com/Tool-In...Z0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
 
Posts: 293 | Location: New Milford, CT USA | Registered: December 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.

What say ye?


There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1598 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of FastLane
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.

What say ye?


There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.


Your assumption is true. Street/strip/bracket. I was thinking prop valve to reduce front brake to limit lock up potential. Is more rear bias a negative with 3.5 in wide front tires vs slicks in rear? I realize you don’t want to lock up the rears first but it seems like less front could usefull.
 
Posts: 394 | Location: Parked... | Registered: May 27, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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I've not done it on a drag car yet but NiCop tubing is a pleasure to work with on street cars.
 
Posts: 1451 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.

What say ye?


There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.


Your assumption is true. Street/strip/bracket. I was thinking prop valve to reduce front brake to limit lock up potential. Is more rear bias a negative with 3.5 in wide front tires vs slicks in rear? I realize you don’t want to lock up the rears first but it seems like less front could usefull.


Being rear disc I think you'll be good.
You could add a valve on the front if needed, leave room in your line for such a situation. The other option would be to play with bias on the master cylinder.


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1598 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
I've not done it on a drag car yet but NiCop tubing is a pleasure to work with on street cars.


I needed lines on our Moser rearend & the Nickle Copper line is easy to work with.


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3000 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 2493 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of FastLane
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
quote:
Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.

What say ye?


There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.


Your assumption is true. Street/strip/bracket. I was thinking prop valve to reduce front brake to limit lock up potential. Is more rear bias a negative with 3.5 in wide front tires vs slicks in rear? I realize you don’t want to lock up the rears first but it seems like less front could usefull.


Being rear disc I think you'll be good.
You could add a valve on the front if needed, leave room in your line for such a situation. The other option would be to play with bias on the master cylinder.


This would help clean up the install.

This is a limited street/mostly strip car.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Posts: 394 | Location: Parked... | Registered: May 27, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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