quote:Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.
Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.
What say ye?
quote:Originally posted by Goob:quote:Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.
Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.
What say ye?
There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.
quote:Originally posted by FastLane:quote:Originally posted by Goob:quote:Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.
Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.
What say ye?
There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.
Your assumption is true. Street/strip/bracket. I was thinking prop valve to reduce front brake to limit lock up potential. Is more rear bias a negative with 3.5 in wide front tires vs slicks in rear? I realize you don’t want to lock up the rears first but it seems like less front could usefull.
quote:Originally posted by Eman:
I've not done it on a drag car yet but NiCop tubing is a pleasure to work with on street cars.
quote:Originally posted by Goob:quote:Originally posted by FastLane:quote:Originally posted by Goob:quote:Originally posted by FastLane:
I’m in the planning process of redoing my brakes on the 70 Cutlass. I’ve found a few line kits but wanted to ask the experience of this board to see what others have done. I dont have to change the lines but since I’m doing the drum to disk conversion front and rear, I thought this might be an opportune time to do it. Def need to change them from MC to distribution block and add an adjustable proportioning valve.
Mopar MC to line lock, to distribution block to prop valve to front and rear.
What say ye?
There is no reason to put a distribution or proportioning valve in the system, at all. A residual valve would be appropriate if the master is mounted lower than the calipers. You'll plumb one side of a 50/50 master cylinder (any 63-82 Corvette unit is a good choice) to the line lock and front wheels, the other side to the rear. Get a roll of tubing and a bag of clamps, select the proper fittings / flex lines / tools and get after it.
Assuming you are upgrading for race purposes and not intending to restore the car.
Your assumption is true. Street/strip/bracket. I was thinking prop valve to reduce front brake to limit lock up potential. Is more rear bias a negative with 3.5 in wide front tires vs slicks in rear? I realize you don’t want to lock up the rears first but it seems like less front could usefull.
Being rear disc I think you'll be good.
You could add a valve on the front if needed, leave room in your line for such a situation. The other option would be to play with bias on the master cylinder.