Seems like prices have gone up. Any deals to be had?

Definitely went up! Dont know of any at the moment...

Oil is oil. Never used VR1, ran Mobil 1 for decades and moved to Lucas Synthetic Racing Oil once I started class racing. I buy it from the local distributor at our Divisional events and Lucas pays contingency $. A 5 quart container is under $45 and it's available from Summit and Jegs too.

I bought 4 - 6 qt. cases on Amazon recently...

VR-1 for about $35 per case. 20-50

Was using Brad Penn and bought it from our bulk supplier....Decided to switch for a number of reasons...

Same as Ed switched to the Lucas.Best part is no more black sludge on the bottom of the oil pan.

quote:

Originally posted by 369dragster:
Same as Ed switched to the Lucas.Best part is no more black sludge on the bottom of the oil pan.

I do get that as well with the VR1.

I wonder what that black sludge is?

nothing good. sludge = bad

Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis

quote:

I wonder what that black sludge is?

I don't have any first hand experience with this alleged black sludge. I have to wonder though, is it degraded oil of simply additive fallout? Some additives are in suspension and if you don't shake the container you will find "black" on the bottom of the container. It's hard to believe as long as Valvoline has been making VR-1, and Valvoline's reputation and the oil's track record for performance over the years, that Valvoline would produce a product that produces sludge. Just a thought.

Additive drop out and the oil degrades with fuel....add some fine metal particles and you get a dark layer in the bottom of the pan.

Brad-Penn was worse than most.....It has dye in it to make it green and is already a darker color...

The VR-1 is light in color but like any oil gets darker with use.

Never took an engine apart that didn't have some residue in the bottom of the pan.....

I ran Lucas race only 10/30 Syn for years and always had a layer of black sludge in bottom of the pan. I switched to Redline 10/30 and it went away and actually cleaned up the whole inside of the engine.
With the blown TD I am running Redline 20/60 and sludge is back again in the pan. Go figure

I started changing my oil after making a pass so as much stuff as possible is still suspended in the oil and comes out with the old oil. Don’t know if it matters much but been the way I have been doing it the last few years.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis

Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
I started changing my oil after making a pass so as much stuff as possible is still suspended in the oil and comes out with the old oil. Don’t know if it matters much but been the way I have been doing it the last few years.

Exactly what I think, if you can't do it at the track after a run then at least get the engine up to temp before changing it

always change my oil every 25-30 passes at the track at the end of the day.

quote:

I ran Lucas race only 10/30 Syn for years and always had a layer of black sludge in bottom of the pan. I switched to Redline 10/30 and it went away and actually cleaned up the whole inside of the engine.

"Race only" oils, as you likely know, are that because of their additive package, or lack there of. One such additive is detergents, the oils ability to disperse and suspend contaminates, sludge in the pan. The more additives you have in a quart of oil the less oil you have.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis

Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.

I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis

Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.

I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis

I know and I didn't mean to come off as a wise a22 with my response. Good information.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis

Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.

I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis

I know and I didn't mean to come off as a wise a22 with my response . Good information.

You didn't. Plus you know I already knew that.