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Sales on Valvoline VR1?
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DRR All Star
posted
Seems like prices have gone up. Any deals to be had?


Just say NO to socialism.
 
Posts: 3664 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Definitely went up! Dont know of any at the moment...
 
Posts: 1301 | Location: Houston, Tx. | Registered: November 27, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Oil is oil. Never used VR1, ran Mobil 1 for decades and moved to Lucas Synthetic Racing Oil once I started class racing. I buy it from the local distributor at our Divisional events and Lucas pays contingency $. A 5 quart container is under $45 and it's available from Summit and Jegs too.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

Support our President! Support our Troops! Support our economy! Buy American!!

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis






 
Posts: 6030 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I bought 4 - 6 qt. cases on Amazon recently...

VR-1 for about $35 per case. 20-50

Was using Brad Penn and bought it from our bulk supplier....Decided to switch for a number of reasons...
 
Posts: 1598 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Same as Ed switched to the Lucas.Best part is no more black sludge on the bottom of the oil pan.


Ken
 
Posts: 274 | Location: Massachusetts | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
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quote:
Originally posted by 369dragster:
Same as Ed switched to the Lucas.Best part is no more black sludge on the bottom of the oil pan.


I do get that as well with the VR1.


Just say NO to socialism.
 
Posts: 3664 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I wonder what that black sludge is?
 
Posts: 393 | Location: BENTON HARBOR, MI | Registered: August 29, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
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nothing good. sludge = bad


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

Support our President! Support our Troops! Support our economy! Buy American!!

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis






 
Posts: 6030 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis



____________________________
2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion

2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner
 
Posts: 1053 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
I wonder what that black sludge is?

I don't have any first hand experience with this alleged black sludge. I have to wonder though, is it degraded oil of simply additive fallout? Some additives are in suspension and if you don't shake the container you will find "black" on the bottom of the container. It's hard to believe as long as Valvoline has been making VR-1, and Valvoline's reputation and the oil's track record for performance over the years, that Valvoline would produce a product that produces sludge. Just a thought.



Illegitimi non carborundum
 
Posts: 1208 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Additive drop out and the oil degrades with fuel....add some fine metal particles and you get a dark layer in the bottom of the pan.

Brad-Penn was worse than most.....It has dye in it to make it green and is already a darker color...

The VR-1 is light in color but like any oil gets darker with use.

Never took an engine apart that didn't have some residue in the bottom of the pan.....
 
Posts: 1598 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I ran Lucas race only 10/30 Syn for years and always had a layer of black sludge in bottom of the pan. I switched to Redline 10/30 and it went away and actually cleaned up the whole inside of the engine.
With the blown TD I am running Redline 20/60 and sludge is back again in the pan. Go figure
 
Posts: 957 | Location: On the the dark side now | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I started changing my oil after making a pass so as much stuff as possible is still suspended in the oil and comes out with the old oil. Don’t know if it matters much but been the way I have been doing it the last few years.
 
Posts: 2361 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
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quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis


Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.


Just say NO to socialism.
 
Posts: 3664 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by green1:
I started changing my oil after making a pass so as much stuff as possible is still suspended in the oil and comes out with the old oil. Don’t know if it matters much but been the way I have been doing it the last few years.


Exactly what I think, if you can't do it at the track after a run then at least get the engine up to temp before changing it
 
Posts: 957 | Location: On the the dark side now | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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always change my oil every 25-30 passes at the track at the end of the day.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

Support our President! Support our Troops! Support our economy! Buy American!!

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis






 
Posts: 6030 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
I ran Lucas race only 10/30 Syn for years and always had a layer of black sludge in bottom of the pan. I switched to Redline 10/30 and it went away and actually cleaned up the whole inside of the engine.

"Race only" oils, as you likely know, are that because of their additive package, or lack there of. One such additive is detergents, the oils ability to disperse and suspend contaminates, sludge in the pan. The more additives you have in a quart of oil the less oil you have.



Illegitimi non carborundum
 
Posts: 1208 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis


Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.


I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis



____________________________
2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion

2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner
 
Posts: 1053 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis


Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.


I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis


I know and I didn't mean to come off as a wise a22 with my response. Good information.


Just say NO to socialism.
 
Posts: 3664 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
quote:
Originally posted by Bucky:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Bucky, look at the Driven GP-1 semi synthetic. It's a little cheaper than VR-1 and uses Pennsylvania grade crude. Alcohol compatible also.

I've been testing and using different Driven oils for a while now. I don't suggest any of their full synthetics if you run alcohol though.

Curtis


Thanks, I mostly don't pick oils based on fuels used. If the fuel is in the crankcase, or moisture, nothing good can come of that. My oil never gets milky and I am vigilant about getting it hot before running, and using a vacuum pump.


I should have been more specific about it. What I found with the full synthetic is that it sheets off so well that I was getting some rust on valve springs and the steel parts of my rockers. Great for making power but not so good with the moisture of alcohol. I went to their semi-synthetic and it clings better after shut down so I don't have that problem now. I am using XP-7 now.

Curtis


I know and I didn't mean to come off as a wise a22 with my response . Good information.



You didn't. Plus you know I already knew that. Laughing Hard



____________________________
2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion

2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner
 
Posts: 1053 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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